How to replace a PSW10 plate amp?

A month ago, a lightning bolt hit the power lines outside my house. Thankfully, none of my major electronics were affected (as they were all on surge suppressing power strips), but my PSW10 sub was not and the plate amp blew out.

I replaced the fuse on it, but as soon as I replaced the fuse and plugged it back in, the fuse immediately blew again.

My suspicion is that the speaker itself is still good. How would I get a replacement plate amp?

Comments

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,820
    Call Polk customer service.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,373
    If they have an amp for that sub it's likely to cost more than the sub is worth.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Yeah, that's what I was worried about. I don't wanna pay $100 for a replacement plate amp. I can get a new PSW10 for $100 on Amazon...
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,373
    I suggest you aim higher as you will get a better sub.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • That may be true, but I don't really have a need for a sub. I had it hooked up along side what are currently my computer speakers (Polk Audio Monitor 40).

    The Polk Monitor 40 and PSW10 sub were my "starter" living room speakers, but I upgraded.

    Guess I'm just going to toss out this dead sub then. Seems like such a waste, tho...
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,373
    What are your upgraded speakers?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,589
    Yes if your speakers can get into the 50s hz then the psw10 isn’t helpful at all. The one advantage for HT is that it does give a little extra slam in the 40-60hz range, and you can control the volume separate from the speakers. But it also chuffs and gives no real bass to speak of.

    If your budget is really limited but you still want a sub then the psw505 is far superior.
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio Nova Integrated; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; LG UP870 4K BDP

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine B, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, Squeezebox Touch
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 29,744
    Not worth the cost to repair in my opinion too. You can probably find the same sub on your local craigslist for 40-50 bucks.

    If you feel like you don't even really need a sub for that office setup, why fix or replace it at all then ?
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    Tad 803 bookies
    Polk 500 surrounds
    Polk s35 center
    SVS SB-2000
    Sonos

    Music-

    Joule la-100 pre
    B&k 1430 amp
    Cary xciter dac
    Cullen modded Sonos
    ERA D5 bookies

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Analysis plus crystal oval ic's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
  • tonyb wrote: »
    If you feel like you don't even really need a sub for that office setup, why fix or replace it at all then ?

    Because it was the sub for my Polk Monitor 40 computer speakers. I don't really need a sub for them, though. I mostly just listen to music on my computer speakers.

    It just feels stupid throwing away a perfectly good speaker cabinet and sub-woofer speaker. And I don't feel like spending 5 hours diagnosing the problem with the plate amp.

    I'd rather replace the amp with a cheap refurb. I guess I was just raised to fix broken things, rather than throw away and buy new...



  • F1nut wrote: »
    What are your upgraded speakers?
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Yes if your speakers can get into the 50s hz

    A pair of Polk S55 tower speakers. They get sufficiently deep for my listening/movie-watching purposes.

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,373
    The specs Polk publishes are deceptive as they list the overall frequency range, not the much more important -/+3dB spec. So, the overall low for the S55 is 32Hz, which I guarantee is about as loud as a mouse. I would venture to say the -3dB point is the high 30's. Most music has content into the low 30's and some a bit lower. While the S55 has more bass than your busted sub ever did you are still missing the bottom end, which really does fill out the music.

    For movies you'll want a sub that hits at least into the low 20's.

    From an independent reviewer....
    The S55s also did a good job with the tone of the viola, but I didn't feel the full heftiness of it until I brought in my SVS PC-13 Ultra sub.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • verbverb Posts: 3,320
    Replacement amp from speaker exchange. Costs more that a replacement sub, as they can be found NIB for a hundie.
    qqoj1n2ee5o6.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,589
    F1nut wrote: »
    The specs Polk publishes are deceptive as they list the overall frequency range, not the much more important -/+3dB spec. So, the overall low for the S55 is 32Hz, which I guarantee is about as loud as a mouse. I would venture to say the -3dB point is the high 30's. Most music has content into the low 30's and some a bit lower. While the S55 has more bass than your busted sub ever did you are still missing the bottom end, which really does fill out the music.

    For movies you'll want a sub that hits at least into the low 20's.

    From an independent reviewer....
    The S55s also did a good job with the tone of the viola, but I didn't feel the full heftiness of it until I brought in my SVS PC-13 Ultra sub.

    I agree, but I do think it depends on both experience and bass proclivities. Robert reina from stereophile (rip) often said that a speaker had to have solid output to about 55hz to be satisfying for most music. On the one hand I agree, as in a near field environment or a small room the trusty rt25is are pretty satisfying. BUT once you hear truly full range speakers (well down into the 20hz range) it’s really hard to go back...on the other hand, bass heads like @EndersShadow would probably never be happy with 55hz. That’s what I mean by bass proclivities...
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio Nova Integrated; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; LG UP870 4K BDP

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine B, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, Squeezebox Touch
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