Question on a flooring installation

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Easy Runnin
Easy Runnin Posts: 501
in The Clubhouse
I’m getting ready to install a LVP floor on my enclosed patio which has a concrete floor and brick walls. I’m still trying to decide how to cover the expansion gap around the perimeter. I’m leaning towards gluing 3/4 inch quarter round to the brick. Anybody else hav a better idea?
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  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
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    No better ideas.
    Base or 1/4 round....go for it.
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!
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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
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    Another possibility:
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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
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    p0657zbl8gtq.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
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  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,372
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    I haven't used LVP before, but have used Pergo and similar. Is there really a need for an expansion gap if LVP flooring is laid over concrete? Or does it expand and contract with different humidity levels?

    Leaving a gap and putting baseboard or molding over it seems like it is the quickest way to cover gaps and avoids possibly wasting flooring through re-cuts.
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    I still say back cut the brick... Won't need alot of expansion if the LVP is thermally connected to the concrete (no vapor barrier or insulation). The concrete should be relatively stable thermally speaking so the change in temp throughout the year should be less than 20 degrees. The LVP will move the most length wise, so plan accordingly.
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