Monitor vs Signature, low bass and presence

Hi all, have monitor 40s and they are fine with my Klipsch sw-350 but there is a bass hole between 100hz and 200hz. It feels like there is a lack of presence and midbass to prop up the rest of the sound.

So my question, Signature s20 plus the sub, would that fill the midbass hole? My Klipsch sub is great 80hz down to 32hz where it falls off a cliff, but can't go higher without being directional.

If not the s20, is it worth the extra money for the s60 when using a sub? I want presence and full sound, and in a perfect world the s60 could help the Klipsch dig below 30hz, but my receiver is only 75w x 7 ch.

Any thoughts? I'm hoping to get beyond freq charts because I don't think that paints the full picture (m40 plays a low note, but it's basically just fake-ish port boom)

Comments

  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,768
    Placement can possibly solve your issue.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,119
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Placement can possibly solve your issue.

    I concur with this.
    The signatures will, however, give you much better overall sound quality.
    Not Tom, or Trey, or Jim
    NAD C352
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    I've always thought the goal of high end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • ahghdahghd Posts: 4
    Zero flexibility with placement, room has forced me into the m40s right in the corner, with all the joyous boundary effects. Wish they were front ported, and tried plugs but no joy
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,594
    Hmm...the s20s might help a little with the power port in the back. But I don’t see there being much difference as the overall frequency response is similar and both are rear ported. I think you just need to look for front ported speakers. Might have to go with a different brand unfortunately...
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio Nova Integrated; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; LG UP870 4K BDP

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine B, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, Squeezebox Touch
  • ahghdahghd Posts: 4
    Yea I've struggled with the m40 freq response, on paper it can go down below 80hz, but in reality it just isn't there around the low-midbass point. My r50s in the same position do fill that sound, but lack the clarity on the high end the monitors have.

    The s60 have a downfiring port, I'm not sure how that would behave in a corner? It would at least have the extra woofers to prop up the sound. But I don't want to spend extra for them if there won't be benefit with my sub carrying 60-80hz and below. Their specs say they reach 26hz so I guess I could run life + main on my Denon (I know I know faux pas) to help my sub extend lower

    Or s50/s55 + sub and sort out 30hz and below with a new sub later on?
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,594
    I would suggest def tech pro monitor 800s or 1000s or the mythos two. Both can be purchase used on eBay. They both are passive radiator designs, and can mounted on the wall. They all will extend to 80 hz, with the 1000s and mythology twos going about 20hz lower. They also sound pretty sweet.
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio Nova Integrated; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; LG UP870 4K BDP

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine B, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, Squeezebox Touch
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,768
    Maybe step back into the M series... The passive might fix it. Like a 5jr+ to keep close to the same footprint.
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,615
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Maybe step back into the M series... The passive might fix it. Like a 5jr+ to keep close to the same footprint.

    I was thinking just that. If you can find any used it may be your best bet, they do sound damn good too.
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  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 14,873
    Do you have the speakers crossed over too high?
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
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  • ahghdahghd Posts: 4
    Appreciate the suggestions all, m series doesn't pass the waf test, and I hadn't considered switching to def tech as Polk is my comfort zone but I could branch out. Will research

    The m40s are crossed at 80hz, at 90hz I can begin to localize my sub.

    If anyone has an s20 would they be able to run a bass sweep and see how linear it is to 80hz?
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,594
    Someone else’s measurements won’t matter since you room and placement are the problem. You need something front ported or a passive radiator design.

    I also started out with Polk and stuck with them awhile before branching out. I really like the def tech house sound. It is a little more forward and detailed than Polk but also punchy and dynamic. It’s a fun sound imo...
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio Nova Integrated; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; LG UP870 4K BDP

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine B, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, Squeezebox Touch
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,469
    Hmm,

    Sounds kind of like the problem i was having for a bit with my Marantz and Audyssey. I had a null between 60 to 140hz, Audyssey was dropping -10db or more in that range, system sounded hollow.

    I solved this by putting a shop towel in the power port while calibrating with Audyssey. I did remove the towel after calibration.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

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