Polk audio sda srs placement

sansuibutchsansuibutch Posts: 87
edited September 9 in Vintage Speakers
I recently moved my srs to a new listening/movie room. They don't sound as good as when they were in the living room. I've been moving them around a bit mainly closer and further from the front wall. My room a little over 17' wide. The speakers are about 38" off the side walls, 7'4" apart and about 11 inches off the back wall. I had them alot closer to the back wall and they didnt sound right. Pulled them out a few good inches and sound much better. Im still adjusting them and listening. I'm wondering where other people's srs are standing in relation to the wall behind the speakers. Or where they sound the best. I checked the owners manual and it mentions they should be right up against the wall, that didn't work for me. I have some acoustic pannels to hang and not 100 percent sure where the speakers are gonna sit so I don't want to hang them till I'm sure. Thank you
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Answers

  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,209
    I would try around 7-8" from back wall, and if poss, Inwould try to get them closer together...maybe about 6'.

    Just be sure they are the same distance to the front wall, also check for level.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    Sounds like you moved them into a smaller room. Big speakers need room to breath. Might be time to get smaller SDA's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • gmcman wrote: »
    I would try around 7-8" from back wall, and if poss, Inwould try to get them closer together...maybe about 6'.

    Just be sure they are the same distance to the front wall, also check for level.

    I will give this a try.
  • F1nut wrote: »
    Sounds like you moved them into a smaller room. Big speakers need room to breath. Might be time to get smaller SDA's.

    The room is actually just about the same exact size. It's a room I built in the basement under my living room . But they are on the shorter wall now so I understand your comment. But in my living room on the long wall they weren't even nearly centered. One speaker was 3 feet from the wall and about 7 feet apart, so the other speaker was all most in the middle of the room. My living room is an acoustical nightmare so I'm excited to get this room setup properly. My rack in the basement sticks out further that my other one so I figured the equipment in the middle of the speakers might have been the issue. That's why I pulled them out to begin with. I can't tell if the rack now being behind the baffle helped or the distance from the rear wall played the part.
  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,209
    When I mentioned back wall, I actually meant front wall, but back of speaker.

    Can you post a pic of the setup?
  • Tony MTony M Posts: 6,064
    edited September 9
    My SRS2's sound great at the recommended distance of 8" off of the wall behind them. Got that from this forum from experienced owners years ago. B) ;)

    I've had them on the short wall and now the long wall. Both places sound amazing.

    I have them about 9' apart to the center of the speakers..
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • warrenwarren Posts: 617
    I recently moved my srs to a new listening/movie room. They don't sound as good as when they were in the living room. I've been moving them around a bit mainly closer and further from the front wall. My room a little over 17' wide. The speakers are about 38" off the side walls, 7'4" apart and about 11 inches off the back wall. I had them alot closer to the back wall and they didnt sound right. Pulled them out a few good inches and sound much better. Im still adjusting them and listening. I'm wondering where other people's srs are standing in relation to the wall behind the speakers. Or where they sound the best. I checked the owners manual and it mentions they should be right up against the wall, that didn't work for me. I have some acoustic pannels to hang and not 100 percent sure where the speakers are gonna sit so I don't want to hang them till I'm sure. Thank you
    Man, theres always a fly in the ointment, after 6 months of dick’in around with my 2.3’s I’ve come to the conclusion that after moving all my 4 sets of speakers there is always room for improvement.. Me thinks...


    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren
  • machonemachone Posts: 1,007
    8" works for my 2.3TLs
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 24 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 18,220
    My room is 19 feet on the long wall. I have them set up at 42” off the side walls and 5” from the wall itself. They sound great at that setup. You said they were downstairs now... concrete basement perhaps? If so, room treatments are a must.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with PS Audio NuWave Phono converter, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Stradivari v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X1 two channel preamplifier Signed by Poppa himself, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Krell Evolution 525a CD Player, Pioneer Elite SC-65, Oppo UDP-205 Blu-ray , Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds

  • T
    My room is 19 feet on the long wall. I have them set up at 42” off the side walls and 5” from the wall itself. They sound great at that setup. You said they were downstairs now... concrete basement perhaps? If so, room treatments are a must.

    They are in the basement but it is finished. I had them around 5" off the back wall and they just didn't sound right. I then moved them to about 11" off the wall and they sounded much better. I took everyone's advice and now there about 8" off the wall and still sound good. So I guess this is where I'm going to keep them. I do have treatment I need to put up bit didn't want to set it up till I knew where they were staying. I also need to get some spikes, wich also might make a difference. Do you have spikes? I would love to keep an closer to the wall
  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 18,220
    Spikes are a must.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, TriangleArt Reference SE with PS Audio NuWave Phono converter, Walker Precision Motor Drive, ClearAudio Stradivari v2 cartridge and Origin Conquerer Mk3c tonearm, Polk Audio "Signature" Reference Series 1.2TL with complete mods, Pass Labs X1 two channel preamplifier Signed by Poppa himself, PS Audio PerfectWave DAC MkII, Krell Evolution 525a CD Player, Pioneer Elite SC-65, Oppo UDP-205 Blu-ray , Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk audio AB700/800 "in-wall" surrounds

  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,209
    I dont know if you moved the speakers in large or small increments...but I would recommend 1/2" increments. From 5" to 8" with my 2.3 TL's, there was a noticeable change in bass and depth of soundstage. As of now, 7" is working good.
  • Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors. Do the same rules apply on a concrete floor? I have them sitting on padded carpet tile over the concrete floor.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,839
    Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors. Do the same rules apply on a concrete floor? I have them sitting on padded carpet tile over the concrete floor.

    IMO yes. My 2.3TL pair would vibrate as much as a 1/4" one way or another over the course of a week while playing. My floor is very short nap carpet. You may think 1/4" isn't much, but it can shift the stage quite a bit. I never thought they would walk because they did sink into the short nap and leave a small depression, but they sure did.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors. Do the same rules apply on a concrete floor? I have them sitting on padded carpet tile over the concrete floor.

    It's even more important to spike any speaker that's sitting on carpet.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors.

    That's what floor discs are for.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nut wrote: »
    Thank you guys. I felt I needed spikes when these were in my living room on the hardwood floors but didn't want to destroy my floors.

    That's what floor discs are for.

    Just make sure those floor discs have spikes. :D
    Polk SDA SRS 1
    Yamaha M-65 (2x, bi-amped)
    Pioneer Elite SC-99
    Oppo UDP-203
    Polk CS350 center
    Polk MC-60 4x Atmos
    Polk AB700 side surround
  • I'm reading a lot of different opinions and results using spikes on concrete. What exactly are the spikes for , to couple the speakers to the floor to take the resonance out of the cabinet?
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 14,878
    Exactly. It provides a pathway for energy to escape the speakers. It provides more stability for the speakers and if on carpet, it prevents the speakers from walking like mentioned above.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: BoX, Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • machonemachone Posts: 1,007
    My 2.3TLs are spiked through short nap carpet to concrete. They are rock solid with no movement. Spikes stabilze the speaker cabinet so when the drivers move forward and backward the cabinet stays put. This improves imaging and tightens bass.
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 24 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod)>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Marantz SA 8005
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • Cool. Thank you two for the explanation. I will get some spikes asap. I'm imagining they will sound different with spikes so Il wait to finish playing with placement till I get them installed.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    edited September 17
    Be sure to get spikes big enough to support the weight and tall enough to get the base off the carpet. They should also be sharp enough to pierce the carpet and pad. Solid brass is an excellent choice. Do not buy the cheap Chinese spikes found on eBay.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nut wrote: »
    Be sure to get spikes big enough to support the weight and tall enough to get the base off the carpet. They should also be sharp enough to pierce the carpet and pad. Solid brass is an excellent choice. Do not buy the cheap Chinese spikes found on eBay.

    I thought about that also. This carpet tile is pretty tough. Thank you sir.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,839
    Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/
  • udw3z8ea57r9.jpg
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

    I'm have to remove one of my feet and see that thread I used. When I built my new end caps I used a different style setup. I guess I could just take the screw out holding them in and use a different style anchor3npqtawuitcs.jpg
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

    Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level. I'm not big on the height of them but I do like the diameter of the end that attaches to the speaker. I wasn't a huge fan of the factory anchors. But with these spikes they would work out good seeing the speakers will actually be sitting on the spikes rather than the threads rod of the feet. When I got baught my speakers and went to adjust the feet half of them spun the anchor out with an. That's why I went the route I did.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,839
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

    Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level.

    Yes the do. you will need some T-nuts it appears. I would not use them in what you have now from the looks of it.

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

    Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level. I'm not big on the height of them but I do like the diameter of the end that attaches to the speaker. I wasn't a huge fan of the factory anchors. But with these spikes they would work out good seeing the speakers will actually be sitting on the spikes rather than the threads rod of the feet. When I got baught my speakers and went to adjust the feet half of them spun the anchor out with an. That's why I went the route I did.

    These are a little shorter and will work perfectly.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/mirror-image-pts-gold/

    You can find the same basic spikes at Parts Express, Adona and a host of other sites.

    I don't like the end tip that screws in or out, so I put thread lock on them. Any level adjustment needed is best done at the top and once obtained the gap can be filled with a washer of the proper thickness.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Y
    F1nut wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Here you go. I bought these and they were 56.00 + shipping. there is a small discount with with buying 8. you want 1/4 x 20 tpi not the metric thread pitch.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/long-mirror-image-pts-gold/

    Do just the points on these thread out for getting them level. I'm not big on the height of them but I do like the diameter of the end that attaches to the speaker. I wasn't a huge fan of the factory anchors. But with these spikes they would work out good seeing the speakers will actually be sitting on the spikes rather than the threads rod of the feet. When I got baught my speakers and went to adjust the feet half of them spun the anchor out with an. That's why I went the route I did.

    These are a little shorter and will work perfectly.

    https://meniscusaudio.com/product/mirror-image-pts-gold/

    You can find the same basic spikes at Parts Express, Adona and a host of other sites.

    I don't like the end tip that screws in or out, so I put thread lock on them. Any level adjustment needed is best done at the top and once obtained the gap can be filled with a washer of the proper thickness.

    Ya I'm not a huge fan of the tip extending either, but I can use the tips to get them set nice and level then measure the gap with calipers so I know exactly how thick the washers need to be. But I'm not a fan of those t nut Pitdogg recommended because it doesn't let the full diameter of the spike contact the cabinet. I hate to say it but I might use the anchors that come with them, and screw them up just past flush with the bases. And I definetly like these spikes you sent in the link. These things are allready tall enough. Thank you again
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    edited September 18
    The screw in threaded inserts will work ok, but they tend to rip out if stressed. That can be helped by adding a bit of 5 miniute epoxy to the sides of the hole before **** them in. Use Q-tips to wipe out any excess epoxy from the internal threads.
    Post edited by KennethSwauger on
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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