Setting up a subwoofer for 2.1?

Right now, I have a Sunfire HRS-8 helping out my bookshelf speakers, connected via speaker-level inputs, so no crossover in front of the speakers. I've just set the crossover and volume on the sub by ear. What do those with similar setups do?
7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
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Comments

  • HzTweakerHzTweaker Posts: 457
    This is a great question and can't wait to read the responds as I'm constantly entertaining the idea of adding a sub to my 2ch rig.
    2ch rig:
    Speakers: Lsi9
    Preamplifier: Parasound P5
    Power Amp: Parasound A23
    CDP: Pioneer DV-563A; the Denon is riding shotgun.
    Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,776
    I always run a sub with my TV, have the same setup as you, Ed, 'cept that I try to use pre outs whenever possible.

    I just balance it by ear.
  • treitz3treitz3 Posts: 12,511
    By ear with a trusted friend doing the adjustments while I am sitting in the sweet spot. Have always yielded excellent results doing this, no matter the room or venue.

    Tom
    In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence.

    The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to good analogue reproduction.
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    The goal, of course, is to get this to sound like a system with two full-range speakers.

    I like the speaker-level inputs vs line-level, since I know the signal received by the sub is exactly the same as what the speakers are getting. Either way, there's no adjustment on the integrated amp anyhow.

    I need some Jedi training to learn how to trust my ears. Adjusting the volume feels like playing with tone controls, which I pledged to give up. ;)
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,602
    In my hybrid HT/2 channel setup with the Dynaudios, I have a little martin logan paired with the Dynaudios so I can leave the SVS for LFE duty and run the mains through the peachtree integrated. I finally have it to where I am really satisfied with it, and I am running the Dyns full range and then running preouts from the peachtree to the sub. I use the -3 point from the manufacturers specs on the speakers as a starting point and go from there. Sometimes I bump it up a little, sometimes down. I know have it just below 50 hz, with the level set VERY low, and it sounds really good.

    Before I was running the mains through the sub, because it has line level ins and outs and a built in 70 hz high pass. I thought the speakers would sound better in my large room having some of the bass pressure taken away, but they sound MUCH better running full range and the sub just handling the lowest frequencies.
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio Nova Integrated; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; LG UP870 4K BDP

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine B, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, Squeezebox Touch
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    Right now, I have a Sunfire HRS-8 helping out my bookshelf speakers, connected via speaker-level inputs, so no crossover in front of the speakers. I've just set the crossover and volume on the sub by ear. What do those with similar setups do?

    The exact same.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,620
    Placement is also key to getting the sub to disappear. I prefer mine in between the two speakers instead of outside if possible.
    Living room

    Mains: Paradigm 90P
    Lows: Velodyne CHT12, Pioneer SW-8Mk2
    Power: Marantz SR7000
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' Curved 4k

    2 Channel Den

    Mains: SDA2B Upgraded XOs and Binding Posts
    Pre: Denon PRA-1200
    Power: Adcom GFA-545
    TT: Pioneer PL510
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' 4K

    Noggin Rockin'

    Phillips L2
    Grado SE80
    Harman Kardon CL
    Little dot 1+/GE JAN 5654w

    Closet of Dreams:

    Harman Kardon AVR130
    Yamaha HTR5590
    Polk RTA11TL
    Polk TSI200s
    New Large Advents 25th Anniversary Edition
    Bravo V2/RCA Clear top Conn branded 12AU7
    Yamaha AV-34

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
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  • DerfDerf Posts: 180
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    Right now, I have a Sunfire HRS-8 helping out my bookshelf speakers, connected via speaker-level inputs, so no crossover in front of the speakers. I've just set the crossover and volume on the sub by ear. What do those with similar setups do?
    Connected via speaker level and adjusted by ear, same as you. I'm happy with the results.
    Integrated Amp: Marantz PM-10
    Speakers: Usher MD2
    Subwoofer: Rythmik F15HP
    DAC: North Star Design Supremo
    Streaming Source: AURALiC Aries Mini
    SACD Player: Marantz SA8004
    Power Source: PS Audio PP3 on dedicated 20amp circuit
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 29,767
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    Right now, I have a Sunfire HRS-8 helping out my bookshelf speakers, connected via speaker-level inputs, so no crossover in front of the speakers. I've just set the crossover and volume on the sub by ear. What do those with similar setups do?

    Actually, you do have a crossover infront of the speakers, in your sub, when you connected it by the speaker level inputs.

    Depending on the bookies, the settings on the sub come down to how much of the mid bass you want the sub to handle, or the bookies. Usually you want the sub to pick up a tad higher than when the bookies start to roll off. Personal tastes come into the equation also as some like their subs to do most the heavy lifting in the mid bass, especially if you have a nice fast sub.

    Takes a bit of trial and error, let your ears judge.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    Tad 803 bookies
    Polk 500 surrounds
    Polk s35 center
    SVS SB-2000
    Sonos

    Music-

    Joule la-100 pre
    B&k 1430 amp
    Cary xciter dac
    Cullen modded Sonos
    ERA D5 bookies

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Analysis plus crystal oval ic's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
  • SCompRacerSCompRacer Posts: 6,912
    edited September 1
    Placement is also key to getting the sub to disappear. I prefer mine in between the two speakers instead of outside if possible.

    In my setup, right next to and between the speakers positioned against the wall worked best. The speakers are out ~ 3 feet from the wall.

    First I concentrate on best speaker setup. When I went back to conventional speakers from ESL's, I experienced a -10dB mid-range drop out. Once I got that improved through placement, I worked on positioning and adjusting the subs. Lots of trying and fails led to a successful placement.

    I use Dayton Audio OmniMic V2 for room sweeps ($300) at the listening position. You can get free sweep software if you don't want to spend. REW EQ Wizard.

    I always suggest consulting a musical instrument chart to see how low instruments in the music you like to listen to can go. No use setting up for low frequencies if your music doesn't go there.

    Depending on mood I can listen to pipe organ, jazz, classical, rock, pop and even some dubstep. Do a room sweep to see what your room allows. Just because a speaker plays 25Hz - 30kHz +-3dB doesn't mean you will hear that same range +- 3dB in your room. You can get frequency nulls and spikes that need attention.
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ & Pro 11+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS* Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    tonyb wrote: »
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    Right now, I have a Sunfire HRS-8 helping out my bookshelf speakers, connected via speaker-level inputs, so no crossover in front of the speakers. I've just set the crossover and volume on the sub by ear. What do those with similar setups do?

    Actually, you do have a crossover infront of the speakers, in your sub, when you connected it by the speaker level inputs.

    Nah, my signal path is not amp to sub to speakers.
    I have two sets of cables coming off my amp - one to speakers, one to sub. So, the sub's crossover dial is working more like a filter than a crossover, I guess.
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    Placement is also key to getting the sub to disappear. I prefer mine in between the two speakers instead of outside if possible.
    Just because a speaker plays 25Hz - 30kHz +-3dB doesn't mean you will hear that same range +- 3dB in your room. You can get frequency nulls and spikes that need attention.
    I can't find a +-3db spec for the VA Haydn Grands, just a frequency response of 40Hz - 20kHz. I might try some measurements and sweeps to see what's really going on.
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • kharp1kharp1 Posts: 2,526
    I use the pre outs on the Joule to a SVS SB-2000 and get pretty good results. Currently have LSA Signature 1's in the system. Would rather have a bit more flexibility in contour, but, for the most part am very happy with what it offers. The SVS subs do not offer speaker level inputs (which I've never been a fan of) but, may need if/when the Mastersound makes it's way from Texas to Kentucky. Downfalll with MS is they don't have pre outs on the integrateds.
    Main System:
    Joule-Electra LA 100 MKIII
    Pass Labs Aleph 30, McCormack DNA-125, Parasound A21
    Marantz SA-14S1
    Usher CP-6311/Tyler Acoustics Taylo Reference Monitor, LSA-1
    Dual SVS SB2000
    Wireworld Equinox 7 bi-wire, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 IC

    Secondary Rig:
    Parasound P5, Audio Electronics by Cary Constellation
    Marsh a200s, Audio Elecrtonics by Cary Hercules
    Pioneer Elite DV-45a, Denon DVD-2910
    Klipsch Epic CF-1, Vandersteen 3CE sig
    Analysus Plus Oval

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    Right now, I have a Sunfire HRS-8 helping out my bookshelf speakers, connected via speaker-level inputs, so no crossover in front of the speakers. I've just set the crossover and volume on the sub by ear. What do those with similar setups do?

    Actually, you do have a crossover infront of the speakers, in your sub, when you connected it by the speaker level inputs.

    Nah, my signal path is not amp to sub to speakers.
    I have two sets of cables coming off my amp - one to speakers, one to sub. So, the sub's crossover dial is working more like a filter than a crossover, I guess.

    In bold is the way to do it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    kharp1 wrote: »
    The SVS subs do not offer speaker level inputs (which I've never been a fan of) but, may need if/when the Mastersound makes it's way from Texas to Kentucky. Downfalll with MS is they don't have pre outs on the integrateds.
    Why not a fan of speaker-level inputs? My thinking, is that I know my sub is receiving the exact same signal at essentially the same time as the speakers. Of course, I use line-level with my HT systems and don't notice any deficiencies, but those systems are... different, if you know what I mean.
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,776
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    kharp1 wrote: »
    The SVS subs do not offer speaker level inputs (which I've never been a fan of) but, may need if/when the Mastersound makes it's way from Texas to Kentucky. Downfalll with MS is they don't have pre outs on the integrateds.
    Why not a fan of speaker-level inputs? My thinking, is that I know my sub is receiving the exact same signal at essentially the same time as the speakers. Of course, I use line-level with my HT systems and don't notice any deficiencies, but those systems are... different, if you know what I mean.

    Actually, Ed, if you think about it, using the pre outs should be more accurate. The amplifier section will further color the sound before it gets to the sub, which then chokes the signal down so that the internal preamp can use it and send it through yet another amplifier section (more color). Not to mention the time delay...
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    edited September 2
    There is no time delay using speaker level connections, which is one difference verses the pre out. The other difference is as you correctly pointed out, the sub gets the same signal, colored or whatever that the speakers get. Why would you want the sub to get a different signal as the idea is to blend the sub and speakers as seamlessly as possible.

    Al, re-reading your post......you are misunderstanding what the speaker level connection is. It is connecting the speakers and sub to the same binding posts on the amp. It is not connecting speaker cables to the sub first, then connecting another set of speaker cables from the sub to the speakers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,776
    Jesse, I'm thinking time delay as a function of each amp section the signal has to pass through. For the speakers, it would be: source, (processing, if any), pre, amp, speaker. The sub would get: source, (processing, if any) pre, amp, pre (again), filter, amp, sub.

    Now if the sub uses pre-outs for it's source, the signal path becomes that much shorter (and invariably, cleaner) to the sub.
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    Hmmm.
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • SCompRacerSCompRacer Posts: 6,912
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    I can't find a +-3db spec for the VA Haydn Grands, just a frequency response of 40Hz - 20kHz. I might try some measurements and sweeps to see what's really going on.

    +-3dB is a technical spec that shows a specific volume change in the speakers frequency range. A speaker rated just as 30Hz to 30kHz could mean it makes a sound at 30Hz and 30kHz, but the speaker may play at -6dB or more at 30Hz which means it seems like you turned the volume 1/2 way down.

    The room sweep shows what your room does with your speakers frequency range. The majority of us place speakers in rooms that are not designed for audio. All one can do is invest some time and effort into making it perform with a minimum of nulls and spikes. It's amazing what a few inches of movement or properly placed acoustic treatments can achieve. You may improve one frequency and harm another.

    It's best to keep notes about placement and what results so you don't repeat something that didn't work. To me it is too frustrating to try and solve in a day. You just have to quit and listen to the music and try again another day.

    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ & Pro 11+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS* Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Jesse, I'm thinking time delay as a function of each amp section the signal has to pass through. For the speakers, it would be: source, (processing, if any), pre, amp, speaker. The sub would get: source, (processing, if any) pre, amp, pre (again), filter, amp, sub.

    Now if the sub uses pre-outs for it's source, the signal path becomes that much shorter (and invariably, cleaner) to the sub.

    Pre-amp in a sub?

    If you use the preamp/subwoofer output from your preamp or integrated, the signal seen by your subwoofer does not include the tonal balance and timing cues created by the amp. That is why the speaker level (high level) is better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • verbverb Posts: 3,328
    F1nut wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Jesse, I'm thinking time delay as a function of each amp section the signal has to pass through. For the speakers, it would be: source, (processing, if any), pre, amp, speaker. The sub would get: source, (processing, if any) pre, amp, pre (again), filter, amp, sub.

    Now if the sub uses pre-outs for it's source, the signal path becomes that much shorter (and invariably, cleaner) to the sub.

    Pre-amp in a sub?

    If you use the preamp/subwoofer output from your preamp or integrated, the signal seen by your subwoofer does not include the tonal balance and timing cues created by the amp. That is why the speaker level (high level) is better.

    Interesting. Another thing to play with, as right now I have the light duty 2CH rig in our living room set up with the sub out, via wireless. However the wireless transmitter does have line level inputs as well.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, VTL 2.5 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Auris BluMe, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,776
    F1nut wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Jesse, I'm thinking time delay as a function of each amp section the signal has to pass through. For the speakers, it would be: source, (processing, if any), pre, amp, speaker. The sub would get: source, (processing, if any) pre, amp, pre (again), filter, amp, sub.

    Now if the sub uses pre-outs for it's source, the signal path becomes that much shorter (and invariably, cleaner) to the sub.

    Pre-amp in a sub?

    If you use the preamp/subwoofer output from your preamp or integrated, the signal seen by your subwoofer does not include the tonal balance and timing cues created by the amp. That is why the speaker level (high level) is better.

    Yeah, preamp in a sub... Kinda has to be there for low pass and volume control. All inputs run through it before being sent to the main amp section.

    Anywho, you're suggesting that the pre-outs from the pre or integrated are a straight shot from the source (minus volume control), yes?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,378
    Never gave any thought to whether a sub has a pre amp or not. Funny, no one talks about that.....hmmm. Regardless, personal experience says it sounds better using the speaker level connections.


    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    I decided to get a new sub and shift the little Sunfire to HT-only duty. The more I listened, the more I noticed it just wasn't as musical as I had hoped. It has great output for its size, but only in what seems to be a narrow range. Since my hybrid system is biased towards 2-channel, the Sunfire gets demoted. Also, this will allow me to dedicate one sub to HT LFE duty.

    Next sub up for 2-channel... a Martin Logan Dynamo 700w. I've set several of these up for others and have always been impressed with this 10" down-firing sealed box. Since they've recently been discontinued, they're currently available at a ridiculous price.

    Although it comes wireless ready, I think the line inputs will be better for 2-channel performance. This sub seems like it should supplement my bookshelf speakers nicely.

    A couple of oddities - a non-stop bright blue flashing LED on the back when not connected wirelessly. Seriously, this thing doesn't give up. Also, it comes with spikes - that get inserted into the rubber feet. Yes, these spikes decouple! I'll use it this way for a while, but eventually, I think it will benefit from proper spiking.
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    My integrated has pre-outs for subwoofer connection. At the moment, I just have a single RCA sub cable connected, but I'm thinking two would be better. Any suggestions for a PAIR of decent sub cables? Maybe 2 meters in the $100 range?
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 2,799
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    I decided to get a new sub and shift the little Sunfire to HT-only duty. The more I listened, the more I noticed it just wasn't as musical as I had hoped. It has great output for its size, but only in what seems to be a narrow range. Since my hybrid system is biased towards 2-channel, the Sunfire gets demoted. Also, this will allow me to dedicate one sub to HT LFE duty.

    Next sub up for 2-channel... a Martin Logan Dynamo 700w. I've set several of these up for others and have always been impressed with this 10" down-firing sealed box. Since they've recently been discontinued, they're currently available at a ridiculous price.

    Although it comes wireless ready, I think the line inputs will be better for 2-channel performance. This sub seems like it should supplement my bookshelf speakers nicely.

    A couple of oddities - a non-stop bright blue flashing LED on the back when not connected wirelessly. Seriously, this thing doesn't give up. Also, it comes with spikes - that get inserted into the rubber feet. Yes, these spikes decouple! I'll use it this way for a while, but eventually, I think it will benefit from proper spiking.

    What's a good price on those Martin Logan subs on the used market? Maybe I'll follow your lead.
    2.3TL, 3.1TL, SDA 2B, SDA II, 7B, 7C, 7 series 2, 10B, 5JR+, 5JR, 5A, 4.5, 4, RTA 11T X2 pairs, RTA 8T, LSI9, LSI7, RTI A7, RTI A3, CSI A4, CSI A6, F/XI A4, RTI4. That's all for now.
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    la2vegas wrote: »
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    I decided to get a new sub and shift the little Sunfire to HT-only duty. The more I listened, the more I noticed it just wasn't as musical as I had hoped. It has great output for its size, but only in what seems to be a narrow range. Since my hybrid system is biased towards 2-channel, the Sunfire gets demoted. Also, this will allow me to dedicate one sub to HT LFE duty.

    Next sub up for 2-channel... a Martin Logan Dynamo 700w. I've set several of these up for others and have always been impressed with this 10" down-firing sealed box. Since they've recently been discontinued, they're currently available at a ridiculous price.

    Although it comes wireless ready, I think the line inputs will be better for 2-channel performance. This sub seems like it should supplement my bookshelf speakers nicely.

    A couple of oddities - a non-stop bright blue flashing LED on the back when not connected wirelessly. Seriously, this thing doesn't give up. Also, it comes with spikes - that get inserted into the rubber feet. Yes, these spikes decouple! I'll use it this way for a while, but eventually, I think it will benefit from proper spiking.

    What's a good price on those Martin Logan subs on the used market? Maybe I'll follow your lead.
    Idk, but around $450 new online. Sold for $700-$800 in the past year. Some used on eBay under $300, but who knows what you get there.
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    I could see me getting a second one. You know, balance and all that.
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 4,621
    See how the smaller sub on the right throws off the symmetry?? ;) I could stash that one in the corner for HT booms and use a pair of ML subs for 2-channel.
    zdxvbi4dbrsc.jpg
    7.1 - polk RTi10 x 3 (LCR) : FXi3 x 2 : RTi4 x 4 : Sunfire SDS-12 : Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 : Adcom GFA-7500 : Squeezebox Touch : DIRECTV : Roku SE : Panasonic PT-AX200U PJ @ 120"
    5.1 - Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 x 4 : ProCenter 1000 : Klipsch Sub-10 : Pioneer Elite SC-91: DIRECTV : LG OLED55B6P : Roku Premiere+
    Garage Duty - polk Monitor 10s : Pioneer A-717 Integrated Amp : Squeezebox Classic
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