My GE Triton One's make a few popping bass thuds after turning the adcom 555II off.

Tony M

I had a TV POP during a Lightning storm. It cost me 85.00 or so to have it fixed. Lesson learned. Then my neighbors' front tree got hit. The lightning ran to the post light in front of thier porch and from there into the house. The light switch blew up. The TV blew up and a microwave too. Freaked them out for sure.
My wife and I saw a lightning bolt energize our neighbors back yard fence. I think the bolt hit a tree we couldn't see because of other trees and our cottage being in the way.


The energizing made an extention cord jump that we had going from our house to theirs because of them not having power from a hurricane outage on their block.
The lightning then ran up a Pecan tree just inside their fence. A line of smoke came off the trunk where that lightning went up. It left a burn line too.

We were very lucky the lightning didn't follow that extention cord to either house! Very lucky that time!

msg

Tony, I might have missed this part of you've already answered, but are sub amps in your speakers constantly powered? Do they go to standby or something?

Wondering if there's a way to get them connected to some power management?

Tony M

They are 2 stage amps.

I never said what the amps were. So you're attentive.

Yes...Standby until a signal is detected.Then the blue light lights up.

Then it takes 5 minutes or more for them to turn off if nothing comes at them.

The NAD shut down without a single thud coming from the Tritons. I think these triton amps don't like capacitor discharge one bit and they let you know it.

msg

Interesting. Do you know whether the series of thuds and thids is coming from the subs or other drivers as well?

Curious, just to see whether it makes a difference, if you can remove power from the subs before shutting down your system, and then see if it still happens. If/when you hook up the other amplifiers again.

Is it just volume knobs on the subs, or are there power switches, too?

Tony M

I put my ears to the speakers before I switched amps and the thuds were coming from ALL the speakers. The tweeter?.. I don't think so but it probably was. It does not sound good.

I unplugged the speakers with one test but I didn't let them power down or something, because they still thumped about 7 times. I think I need to check with that scenario one more time. Speakers unplugged, make sure the blue light goes out completely, and then turn a 555II off.

The amps do not have a power switch.

It does have an auto on/off switch.Sorry, no it doesn't. It's just a light. I was thinking it had a toggle, but that's the 555II's rear bridged switch that was in my mind.





There is a volume dial for the subs power level. I have mine a little below midway. That seems to be the starting point for all the reviews I've read. And rightly so. The bass is a tad powerful but I know I have them in the close space and those poor side passives pounding each other has to be ridiculous. I'm sure it would be a lot nicer once they have a chance to pressurize the room the way they were designed too.

Clipdat

At this point I'd just say "f it" and use them with the NAD gear exclusively.

FestYboy

Yeah! Put your NADs to work, son!


(Can I get a "wut, wut"!?)


*Dang it, my white is showing ...

Tony M

Yep, I want to do that but I feel, after my 555II warmed up quite a bit the other day, it might tax the old NAD too much. But who knows.

I read in a review, the reviewers' amp got right warm too and he questioned how could a speaker system with super-powered subsections and a sensitivity of 92 or 93 make his powerful amp warm up that much. He thinks the 8-ohm rating is misleading. Playing 4-5 1/4" mids and 2 small tweeters shouldn't work a powerful amp to heating up like it did. I had them cranking somewhat, but my 370( or 372) NAD integrated pushing my 4 ohm SRS2's loud for an hour or two or more produces just the same amount of heat on the tops.

I did miss the step/test of unplugging of the Triton's and letting that blue light go out before turning the 555II off.

I think I heard a very small thud or tick when the Cerwin Vega's were hooked up. I even had 2 555II in bridged mode on the Vega's and never heard anything more than a small tick or thid. Even with the one, or 2 in bridged, the capacitor discharges never even made me think of any problem or concern what so ever.

I think the Tritons amp just amplified the discharge like a signal of all frequencies. That's all I can come up with until I do those speakers unplugged for a minute test.

msg

As far as "removing power", I mean to say, in a controlled manner. I'm curious about this as a sort of simulation of a switched outlet bank on a power management unit, or like how DC trigger would work between a preamp and amp. So, maybe connect them to a power strip, and test cutting power with and without turning the volume down on the subs first.

I wouldn't mess around with unplugging speaker cables with an amp energized. Not like unplugging speaker cables in this manner would ever be something you'd do regularly, so it doesn't matter, you know?

I suspect cutting power to the subs before powering down the system may not make much difference, and it's just the way it works with that particular amplifier, but if you plan to use an amp that works in that way, maybe you can find an order of operations to minimize the pops. I wouldn't be comfortable with it either, and with amps that do this, I turn the preamp volume all the way down before powering the system off, as has been noted by others.

Tony M

I haven't thought of unplugging speaker wires at all with a power unit in the on position or before I turn that bank of speakers off. I did it the other day. I had power on but turned the speakers A&B off, volume down and I switched bare wires from A to B successfully.

I've done that before with volume down to zero..but I think the speaker switch was still on and the quick hum/buzz pulling a banana plug out is 5 times (or more) worse than the thuds!

You JUST made me think of a solution. Thank you Scott!

A possible solution to 555II's Amp discharge issue: A speaker selector from Adcom, which I have a couple ( a 6pr. and a 3pr.) I believe, could direct the charge to a blank speaker path.

Having the sound go through speaker A on the selector. Then before powering off, turn the volume down to zero, as I almost always do anyway, and then push speaker B's button and disconnect speaker A by pushing its button again. It should work. It should disconnect speaker A completely!