DB5252 on a Motorcycle, crossover mod

I am adding speakers to my bike, using a Memphis gauge style receiver as the HU. (25Wx4, non bridgeable). My question is, can I mod the included xovers so that I can run the tweets from the front channel, and the mid/bass from the rear (bi-amp)? If too much of a pain, then I could scrap the included crossovers and find aftermarket units (Dayton?), but I would need to know speaker specs.

I am looking for a way to get a little more punch without adding an amp. (power budget is low on a bike).
Thanks,
Kevin

Comments

  • TopperDudeTopperDude Posts: 53
    edited August 3
    Only saw your post now -

    You won't be able to easily mod the crossovers like that. If your looking for a headunit with more power, look into one of the high-power Sonys like the MEX-XB120BT which does 45w RMS x 4:

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XB120BT/Sony-MEX-XB120BT.html
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,270
    I think you're gonna need a sub.
  • thsmiththsmith Posts: 6,091
    Listen to the motor, the wind and your own thoughts. Music is distracting on a motorcycle IMO. Its never going to sound good no matter what you do. Even the touring bikes with 4 speaker systems only sound OK at slow speeds, freeway speeds they are useless. Put some nice sounding pipes on and listen to those, much more enjoyable.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • decaldecal Posts: 3,082
    thsmith wrote: »
    Music is distracting on a motorcycle IMO.

    I agree 100%.
    If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.
  • JstasJstas Posts: 13,681
    Way to lecture the guy and not answer his question, guys.

    OP, the crossovers do not look to be bi-ampable. The original dB series from many moons ago now did have bi-ampable crossovers. But that's neither here nor there.

    So if you want to do what you are talking about, you will need different crossovers. However, different crossovers may not have crossover points that will allow for the drivers to actually have a proper crossover point. What will happen then is that you may be driving a driver with a frequency level outside of it's capable range and you have a good chance of having a crossover valley that intersects too low for you to hear and you end up losing a large chunk of mid-range.

    But bi-amping off your headunit is not a good solution at all. For one thing, the individual speakers have a different impedance load when not on the crossover and may present an impedance too low for your head unit to handle without damage. For another, head units do not have the necessary guts to support the rated power in many instances. Especially if they have ratings like 45Wx4. Actual bench testing will often show power levels to be more like 5-10W per channel. Doesn't matter what brand name is on it.

    Your best solution here is actually an amplifier. One like this is small enough that it will fit a motorcycle and won't draw more than the amp on your head unit would draw if you were powering speakers with it as well. If you're going to do a bunch of high volume listening (and you will on a motorcycle) then you need an amp or your gear is not going to live a long life.

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206PXA2002/Kicker-42PXA2002.html?tp=35757
    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
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