Need help with a question about line conditioners

Hey guys been really enjoying the site since I joined this past couple months been a lot of great insight and help from the community. I have a basic question I could use your help with. I bought the S60 signature polks 3 for the front channels love em. Next step subwoofers and then amps. I bought AV racks to make room for the new gear. I also bought a Panamax 5300 line conditioner surge protector for each rack. I do believe some of the claims they state may be overhyped but I really liked them for the cable management helping to clean up the wiring being able to plug everything into them and I got them on a killer deal etc etc. My question is this I keep hearing back and forth opinions that these type of devices can affect amplifier performance and sound quality basically holding back the dynamic power of the amps and that they may not be able to handle the amp subs etc I'm gonna plug into them. Is they're any validity to this? When I get the new subs and then the amps especially should I just plug them into the wall? Any help and info on this would be greatly appreciated thanks you all for your time and input

Comments

  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,617
    Depends on how critically you listen.

    Yes, I believe they stunt dynamics and imaging and soundstage reproduction.

    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,127
    The Panamax will choke your amps. Before my Shunyata gear I had Panamax. After I bought the Shunyata I moved the Panamax into the HT. Initially, I had only one 20 amp line, and the Triton for all the gear. Later I sent the Triton back for an upgrade so I thought I would try my Panamax 5400 as a temporary replacement since it had an amp meter, and I was curious about the current draw. Well, that lasted about 1-2 minutes since the Panamax buzzed and humed like crazy from the amps. LOL

    On the other hand, the Shunyata is designed to not affect current, and the system sounds better going through the Shunyata versus plugged into the wall. Other manufacturers might also work, but Panamax is NOT designed for this type of purpose.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Depends on how critically you listen.

    Yes, I believe they stunt dynamics and imaging and soundstage reproduction.

    I appreciate your time and input without making you spend too much time trying to explain the science of it can you give me a basic idea of why? I already think your right. When I plugged in the gear I have now I noticed my subwoofer hum was gone that's good. But I just after listening for a week feel like something has been missing from well everything else highs loudness etc. I was thinking maybe it was in my head you know my perception . I'm really glad to hear my feelings and impressions are legit I'm hoping to understand why. I still have time to return them and save some coin for the subs if I feel like it but may keep them as plug in banks and just plug in the important stuff like subs and amps to the wall. Thanks man for your input really appreciated.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,375
    edited March 16
    can you give me a basic idea of why?

    Most limit current and power amplifiers need unrestricted current to perform their best.

    Do you have dedicated 10 gauge 20 amp lines?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    BlueFox wrote: »
    The Panamax will choke your amps. Before my Shunyata gear I had Panamax. After I bought the Shunyata I moved the Panamax into the HT. Initially, I had only one 20 amp line, and the Triton for all the gear. Later I sent the Triton back for an upgrade so I thought I would try my Panamax 5400 as a temporary replacement since it had an amp meter, and I was curious about the current draw. Well, that lasted about 1-2 minutes since the Panamax buzzed and humed like crazy from the amps. LOL

    On the other hand, the Shunyata is designed to not affect current, and the system sounds better going through the Shunyata versus plugged into the wall. Other manufacturers might also work, but Panamax is NOT designed for this type of purpose.

    Hey thanks Blue Fox you guys are really explaining some things from listening this past week that I thought were in my head. I'll definitely have to look into some of the options you have thanks for the input
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,127
    Take your time, read and learn. This area can get expensive fast, so the more you know beforehand the fewer mistakes you will make. Good luck.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    F1nut wrote: »
    can you give me a basic idea of why?

    Most limit current and power amplifiers need unrestricted current to perform their best.

    Do you have dedicated 10 gauge 20 amp lines?

    Yes I do two for that part of the room so that's not an issue a friend that really knows his stuff in speaker systems and electrical double checked for me so I'm good on that part. Based on your guy's replies I'm really wondering how to go forward. They can still be returned although I do like plugging everything else in back they're. Should I return them and use the coin for the subs or use them for all the rest of the stuff and just plug the heavy duty stuff directly into the wall? Any suggestions you could give would be greatly appreciated.
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Take your time, read and learn. This area can get expensive fast, so the more you know beforehand the fewer mistakes you will make. Good luck.

    Thanks man
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,375
    Plug the rest into them, amps straight into the wall.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    F1nut wrote: »
    Plug the rest into them, amps straight into the wall.

    Hey thanks for the help
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,127
    Education is the key to anything.

    Start here.

    http://shunyata.com/
    http://shunyata.com/technology-guide/
    http://shunyata.com/technical-articles/

    Spend some time on other manufacturers websites. Read their patents, and their White Papers. Learning is almost as much fun as listening. :)


    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 6,617
    edited March 17
    danzilla31 wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Depends on how critically you listen.

    Yes, I believe they stunt dynamics and imaging and soundstage reproduction.

    I appreciate your time and input without making you spend too much time trying to explain the science of it can you give me a basic idea of why? I already think your right. When I plugged in the gear I have now I noticed my subwoofer hum was gone that's good. But I just after listening for a week feel like something has been missing from well everything else highs loudness etc. I was thinking maybe it was in my head you know my perception . I'm really glad to hear my feelings and impressions are legit I'm hoping to understand why. I still have time to return them and save some coin for the subs if I feel like it but may keep them as plug in banks and just plug in the important stuff like subs and amps to the wall. Thanks man for your input really appreciated.

    I have not done extensive testing between many conditioners so take my experience with a grain of salt.

    What I have tested so far is PS Audio P5 Regenerator and the Torus RM15.

    I sold the P5 Regenerator after I realized it numbed out the highs and took out a good portion of the soundstage. I initially thought it was more focused at lower volumes but when I turned up the volume to realistic levels, I realized I no longer had the bloom of the soundstage (meaning the expansion of the soundstage was limited) especially front to back.

    I now have the Torus RM15 which is very good. It improved on the P5 sonics, and still gives me surge protection. I read up on the Torus RM15 and the way it was designed was to actually provide a bank of power available for the components to draw upon even greater than what is available from the outlet.

    There are a few other "conditioners" that do something similar.

    1. Audioquest Niagara 5000/7000.
    2. Furman Reference 15i and Reference 20i.
    3. Torus RM15/20/etc
    4. Bryston BIT15/20

    I have the Furman 15 Elite PFi at home as well, but I've been so busy that I have not bothered to test it against the Torus. Maybe once I have the room a little more set and I have time to sit and test, I can do so in my "lab".
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Torus RM15 -> Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature) -> new speakers
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> Focal Kanta 2

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: BW PM1 (3.5/5), CM10s2 (3.75/5), BW800D3 (5/5), Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    Joey_V wrote: »
    danzilla31 wrote: »
    Joey_V wrote: »
    Depends on how critically you listen.

    Yes, I believe they stunt dynamics and imaging and soundstage reproduction.

    I appreciate your time and input without making you spend too much time trying to explain the science of it can you give me a basic idea of why? I already think your right. When I plugged in the gear I have now I noticed my subwoofer hum was gone that's good. But I just after listening for a week feel like something has been missing from well everything else highs loudness etc. I was thinking maybe it was in my head you know my perception . I'm really glad to hear my feelings and impressions are legit I'm hoping to understand why. I still have time to return them and save some coin for the subs if I feel like it but may keep them as plug in banks and just plug in the important stuff like subs and amps to the wall. Thanks man for your input really appreciated.

    I have not done extensive testing between many conditioners so take my experience with a grain of salt.

    What I have tested so far is PS Audio P5 Regenerator and the Torus RM15.

    I sold the P5 Regenerator after I realized it numbed out the highs and took out a good portion of the soundstage. I initially thought it was more focused at lower volumes but when I turned up the volume to realistic levels, I realized I no longer had the bloom of the soundstage (meaning the expansion of the soundstage was limited) especially front to back.

    I now have the Torus RM15 which is very good. It improved on the P5 sonics, and still gives me surge protection. I read up on the Torus RM15 and the way it was designed was to actually provide a bank of power available for the components to draw upon even greater than what is available from the outlet.

    There are a few other "conditioners" that do something similar.

    1. Audioquest Niagara 5000/7000.
    2. Furman Reference 15i and Reference 20i.
    3. Torus RM15/20/etc
    4. Bryston BIT15/20

    I have the Furman 15 Elite PFi at home as well, but I've been so busy that I have not bothered to test it against the Torus. Maybe once I have the room a little more set and I have time to sit and test, I can do so in my "lab".

    Everything your saying is exactly what I heard myself in my system
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Education is the key to anything.

    Start here.

    http://shunyata.com/
    http://shunyata.com/technology-guide/
    http://shunyata.com/technical-articles/

    Spend some time on other manufacturers websites. Read their patents, and their White Papers. Learning is almost as much fun as listening. :)


    I really appreciate the guidance I've had a lot of fun getting into this hobby but learning from others and as you said gathering my own knowledge has been part of the fun and is keeping me from making a lot of mistakes. I'll still make some of course just hopefully not so many :)
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 4,476
    What about the outlets labled "high current"?
    Parlor: ifi iDSD Micro*Yamaha RX-A2030*Parasound Halo P5*Parasound Halo A-31*Parasound 2250v2*Emotiva XPA-200 Gen1*LSiM707 Fronts*LSiM706c Center*LSiM702f/x Surrounds*Monitor70 Series II Rears*Monitor40 Series II Presence*SVS PB2000 Sub X2*OPPO BDP-103D*Sony PS3*Samsung-55" LED 1080p Smart 3D HDTV UN55H7150AFXZA*TEAC TN-300*Wireworld Solstice cables* Wireworld Stratus power cables*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*BJC Silver-Plated IC's* Bens Silver IC's

    Dungeon: Dancer Mini-Two Diamond*Auralic Aries Mini*Dayens Ampino Preamp*Dayens Ampino Monoblocks*North Star Intenso DAC*Wireworld Oasis cables*Wireworld Oasis IC's*Wireworld Aurora power cables*IFI nano IDSD bl*Pangea Silver USB*Cambridge CXU*

    Panamax MR5100*Panamax M8-AV-PRO*Furman PST-2+6

    Headgear: Sennheiser HD 558*Audio-Technica ATH-M40x*Sennheiser HD 598 Cs*Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7*Philips SHP9500S* Sennheiser 6xx

    Hello Kitty boombox

    Spare sortta: Usher N-6361* ifi iDsd nano*Marantz 1504* RX-A1040*Emotiva XPA-1L Gen2 X2*Emotiva XPA-3 Gen2*CSiA6 Center*Monitor40 Series II*SVS PB1000 Sub*Sony BDPS6500 Blu-ray player*POS 37" LCD*Douglas Connection Furez 12 AWG 2 Conductor*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*Samsung BD-H5900 3D Blu-Ray*Usher N-6361


    Self Control is over rated.
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »
    Meh these were extra $70 as an open box item so it didn’t much to me either way:)

  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 4,476
    I am well disposed to continuing this lively discussion. Please don't hesitate to add your thoughts on this vital topic. Damnit I didn't order enough power cables!
    Parlor: ifi iDSD Micro*Yamaha RX-A2030*Parasound Halo P5*Parasound Halo A-31*Parasound 2250v2*Emotiva XPA-200 Gen1*LSiM707 Fronts*LSiM706c Center*LSiM702f/x Surrounds*Monitor70 Series II Rears*Monitor40 Series II Presence*SVS PB2000 Sub X2*OPPO BDP-103D*Sony PS3*Samsung-55" LED 1080p Smart 3D HDTV UN55H7150AFXZA*TEAC TN-300*Wireworld Solstice cables* Wireworld Stratus power cables*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*BJC Silver-Plated IC's* Bens Silver IC's

    Dungeon: Dancer Mini-Two Diamond*Auralic Aries Mini*Dayens Ampino Preamp*Dayens Ampino Monoblocks*North Star Intenso DAC*Wireworld Oasis cables*Wireworld Oasis IC's*Wireworld Aurora power cables*IFI nano IDSD bl*Pangea Silver USB*Cambridge CXU*

    Panamax MR5100*Panamax M8-AV-PRO*Furman PST-2+6

    Headgear: Sennheiser HD 558*Audio-Technica ATH-M40x*Sennheiser HD 598 Cs*Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7*Philips SHP9500S* Sennheiser 6xx

    Hello Kitty boombox

    Spare sortta: Usher N-6361* ifi iDsd nano*Marantz 1504* RX-A1040*Emotiva XPA-1L Gen2 X2*Emotiva XPA-3 Gen2*CSiA6 Center*Monitor40 Series II*SVS PB1000 Sub*Sony BDPS6500 Blu-ray player*POS 37" LCD*Douglas Connection Furez 12 AWG 2 Conductor*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*Samsung BD-H5900 3D Blu-Ray*Usher N-6361


    Self Control is over rated.
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »
    Meh these were extra $70 as an open box item so it didn’t much to me either way:)

  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 9,899
    afterburnt wrote: »
    What about the outlets labled "high current"?

    Warning: Don't stick your finger in them!!!
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
  • ken brydsonken brydson Posts: 7,139
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    afterburnt wrote: »
    What about the outlets labled "high current"?

    Warning: Don't stick your finger in them!!!

    Awe come on. Lick your fingers and stand in a puddle. It will make him a man...
    HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One

    Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 4,476
    Aw come on guys, is that really gonna make my amps sound better?
    Parlor: ifi iDSD Micro*Yamaha RX-A2030*Parasound Halo P5*Parasound Halo A-31*Parasound 2250v2*Emotiva XPA-200 Gen1*LSiM707 Fronts*LSiM706c Center*LSiM702f/x Surrounds*Monitor70 Series II Rears*Monitor40 Series II Presence*SVS PB2000 Sub X2*OPPO BDP-103D*Sony PS3*Samsung-55" LED 1080p Smart 3D HDTV UN55H7150AFXZA*TEAC TN-300*Wireworld Solstice cables* Wireworld Stratus power cables*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*BJC Silver-Plated IC's* Bens Silver IC's

    Dungeon: Dancer Mini-Two Diamond*Auralic Aries Mini*Dayens Ampino Preamp*Dayens Ampino Monoblocks*North Star Intenso DAC*Wireworld Oasis cables*Wireworld Oasis IC's*Wireworld Aurora power cables*IFI nano IDSD bl*Pangea Silver USB*Cambridge CXU*

    Panamax MR5100*Panamax M8-AV-PRO*Furman PST-2+6

    Headgear: Sennheiser HD 558*Audio-Technica ATH-M40x*Sennheiser HD 598 Cs*Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7*Philips SHP9500S* Sennheiser 6xx

    Hello Kitty boombox

    Spare sortta: Usher N-6361* ifi iDsd nano*Marantz 1504* RX-A1040*Emotiva XPA-1L Gen2 X2*Emotiva XPA-3 Gen2*CSiA6 Center*Monitor40 Series II*SVS PB1000 Sub*Sony BDPS6500 Blu-ray player*POS 37" LCD*Douglas Connection Furez 12 AWG 2 Conductor*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*Samsung BD-H5900 3D Blu-Ray*Usher N-6361


    Self Control is over rated.
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »
    Meh these were extra $70 as an open box item so it didn’t much to me either way:)

  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 9,899
    afterburnt wrote: »
    Aw come on guys, is that really gonna make my amps sound better?

    May tweek a few brain cells, just don't know if that's a positive or negative result. Doctors seem the think shock therapy works for some

    I had good results, 1st adding a couple 20amp circuits, and integrating Furman Elite 20 and/or dectet's
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 19,003
    Interesting thread at AA on (sort of) this topic at the moment, FYI and FWIW:

    https://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/73/734660.html
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    edited March 22
    afterburnt wrote: »
    What about the outlets labled "high current"?

    Hey afterburnt my experience with the Panamax was I had them plugged into those outlets and literally from day one I could hear a difference in the sound. I was walking around ears to speakers going what happened to my sound! Did I blow something? Lol. The moment I did what was recommended by everyone and from what I learned on research and plugged the reciever and subs straight back into the wall everything came back to life again. From what I'm learning Panamax and ceartin types of conditioners just aren't built for that kind of thing they restrict current and anything with an amp ain't gonna like it. All I can say is my system didn't seem to. From what I'm learning they're are ceartin kinds that won't affect sound but I'll keep it simple and just plug them into the wall. I kept them though I really liked plugging all my other stuff in they're cleaning up the cables etc and the on and off banks are super cool. I plug my dvr etc stuff that always needs to stay on into the always on banks and like the fans for my racks into the off banks since they don't have an off switch so I can just turn em off from the Panamax which comes in handy. And as for protecting my amps and subs etc I just unplug them when I'm not using them which really is the best way to protect your gear anyway it can't hurt what isn't there lol.
    Post edited by KennethSwauger on
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    mhardy6647 wrote: »
    Interesting thread at AA on (sort of) this topic at the moment, FYI and FWIW:

    https://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/73/734660.html

    cool thread thanks!
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 4,476
    edited March 22
    danzilla31 wrote: »
    afterburnt wrote: »
    What about the outlets labled "high current"?

    Hey afterburnt my experience with the Panamax was I had them plugged into those outlets and literally from day one I could hear a difference in the sound. I was walking around ears to speakers going what happened to my sound! Did I blow something? Lol. The moment I did what was recommended by everyone and from what I learned on research and plugged the reciever and subs straight back into the wall everything came back to life again. From what I'm learning Panamax and ceartin types of conditioners just aren't built for that kind of thing they restrict current and anything with an amp ain't gonna like it. All I can say is my system didn't seem to. From what I'm learning they're are ceartin kinds that won't affect sound but I'll keep it simple and just plug them into the wall. I kept them though I really liked plugging all my other stuff in they're cleaning up the cables etc and the on and off banks are super cool. I plug my dvr etc stuff that always needs to stay on into the always on banks and like the fans for my racks into the off banks since they don't have an off switch so I can just turn em off from the Panamax which comes in handy. And as for protecting my amps and subs etc I just unplug them when I'm not using them which really is the best way to protect your gear anyway it can't hurt what isn't there lol.

    I cant remember if I tried my 2 channel amps without the conditioner. I did try my A31 off the wall and did not hear a difference but that was when that whole system wasn't sounding too good. As it stands now I have new power cords that wont reach the wall or there are no outlets available. I have had a Dectet in my cart for ages and it keeps getting bumped for other stuff.
    Post edited by KennethSwauger on
    Parlor: ifi iDSD Micro*Yamaha RX-A2030*Parasound Halo P5*Parasound Halo A-31*Parasound 2250v2*Emotiva XPA-200 Gen1*LSiM707 Fronts*LSiM706c Center*LSiM702f/x Surrounds*Monitor70 Series II Rears*Monitor40 Series II Presence*SVS PB2000 Sub X2*OPPO BDP-103D*Sony PS3*Samsung-55" LED 1080p Smart 3D HDTV UN55H7150AFXZA*TEAC TN-300*Wireworld Solstice cables* Wireworld Stratus power cables*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*BJC Silver-Plated IC's* Bens Silver IC's

    Dungeon: Dancer Mini-Two Diamond*Auralic Aries Mini*Dayens Ampino Preamp*Dayens Ampino Monoblocks*North Star Intenso DAC*Wireworld Oasis cables*Wireworld Oasis IC's*Wireworld Aurora power cables*IFI nano IDSD bl*Pangea Silver USB*Cambridge CXU*

    Panamax MR5100*Panamax M8-AV-PRO*Furman PST-2+6

    Headgear: Sennheiser HD 558*Audio-Technica ATH-M40x*Sennheiser HD 598 Cs*Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7*Philips SHP9500S* Sennheiser 6xx

    Hello Kitty boombox

    Spare sortta: Usher N-6361* ifi iDsd nano*Marantz 1504* RX-A1040*Emotiva XPA-1L Gen2 X2*Emotiva XPA-3 Gen2*CSiA6 Center*Monitor40 Series II*SVS PB1000 Sub*Sony BDPS6500 Blu-ray player*POS 37" LCD*Douglas Connection Furez 12 AWG 2 Conductor*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*Samsung BD-H5900 3D Blu-Ray*Usher N-6361


    Self Control is over rated.
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »
    Meh these were extra $70 as an open box item so it didn’t much to me either way:)

  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 1,756
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGNPC4

    Maybe something like this would work for you.
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 4,476
    rpf65 wrote: »
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGNPC4

    Maybe something like this would work for you.

    Cool I will try one.
    Parlor: ifi iDSD Micro*Yamaha RX-A2030*Parasound Halo P5*Parasound Halo A-31*Parasound 2250v2*Emotiva XPA-200 Gen1*LSiM707 Fronts*LSiM706c Center*LSiM702f/x Surrounds*Monitor70 Series II Rears*Monitor40 Series II Presence*SVS PB2000 Sub X2*OPPO BDP-103D*Sony PS3*Samsung-55" LED 1080p Smart 3D HDTV UN55H7150AFXZA*TEAC TN-300*Wireworld Solstice cables* Wireworld Stratus power cables*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*BJC Silver-Plated IC's* Bens Silver IC's

    Dungeon: Dancer Mini-Two Diamond*Auralic Aries Mini*Dayens Ampino Preamp*Dayens Ampino Monoblocks*North Star Intenso DAC*Wireworld Oasis cables*Wireworld Oasis IC's*Wireworld Aurora power cables*IFI nano IDSD bl*Pangea Silver USB*Cambridge CXU*

    Panamax MR5100*Panamax M8-AV-PRO*Furman PST-2+6

    Headgear: Sennheiser HD 558*Audio-Technica ATH-M40x*Sennheiser HD 598 Cs*Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7*Philips SHP9500S* Sennheiser 6xx

    Hello Kitty boombox

    Spare sortta: Usher N-6361* ifi iDsd nano*Marantz 1504* RX-A1040*Emotiva XPA-1L Gen2 X2*Emotiva XPA-3 Gen2*CSiA6 Center*Monitor40 Series II*SVS PB1000 Sub*Sony BDPS6500 Blu-ray player*POS 37" LCD*Douglas Connection Furez 12 AWG 2 Conductor*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*Samsung BD-H5900 3D Blu-Ray*Usher N-6361


    Self Control is over rated.
    Mr. Sharpe wrote: »
    Meh these were extra $70 as an open box item so it didn’t much to me either way:)

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 4,718
    I tried one. Be aware that they have extremely tight gripping plugs that will scratch the blades on your power cables.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    Cool I will try one.

    Got Dayens?
  • danzilla31danzilla31 Posts: 94
    afterburnt wrote: »
    rpf65 wrote: »
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PGNPC4

    Maybe something like this would work for you.

    Cool I will try one.

    Whatever you check out good luck on finding what your looking for
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