Audioquest speaker cable re-termination

I got some used Audioquest CV-6 speaker cables a while back. There are 3 stiff solid copper wires going into the banana plug. One of them has broken. I can't find it on here, but someone said to check with Audioquest about an RMA to get them fixed. I found out what I suspected, the ends had been re-terminated once before, so Audioquest would charge $$$ to reterminate them.

Any recommendations for re-termination? I have some new crimp on spades I picked up on a clearance sale a while back, but they were a better name brand, Vampire maybe. Would those be good to use and then add some solder afer crimping or not? I have some ok banana's with a set screw clamp. Would those be better?

Comments

  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 1,466
    I believe @msg recently went through this.
    Alan_r wrote: »
    My passion is for the music, my hobby is how I listen to it.
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,714
    Yeah. I just converted a pair of CV-8 bi-wire to full range. Just one so far, haven't finished the second, nor had a chance to test it/them.

    Are the existing bananas crimp on or screw down?
    Do you have a heat gun and heat shrink and stuff?
    If not, yeah, might be better off just sending them in.

    Max posted up on my CV-8 t'read that he had his re-terminated affordably through AudioQuest.
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/2368485/#Comment_2368485


    When I did the one, I just fed the wires into the barrel and screwed them down. No solder. Mixed perspectives on that, so take your pick. If I were using crimp on connectors, I'd probably solder them after. Vampire Wire spades should be decent. Some crimp-on connectors are brittle or don't get enough clamping force, and the wire just pulls out. I've started crimping with the dimple on the solid side, not where the legs come together.
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 247
    All the Audioquest speaker cables I have owned just use their terminations that have screw down barrels. Depending on the cables the strands are twisted a certain way and coated with either a copper or silver paste (depending on cable material). There are some PDF documents on-line that show examples of their bulk wire termination.
    http://www.audioquest.com/resource_tools/downloads/literature/learning_modules/AQ-Rockets-Spool-Termination-Manual.pdf
    2 Channel
    Pre:Parasound JC2BP
    Amp:Bryston 4B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton One
    Source: Oppo 103D, Mac Mini, Bryston BDA-3
    Cables: AQ Castlerock Speaker, AQ Columbia XLR/RCA, AQ Diamond USB
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Panasonic TC-P65ZT60

    Home Theater
    Reciever: Yamaha CX-A5100
    Amp: Parasound A21, A31, A51
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 703 (Fl, FR, RL, RR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB13 x 3 (4th is on the way) +DSPeaker Anti-Mode Dual Core
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Power: PS Audio P5 Regenerator, Furman IT Reference 15i, Pangea AC14SE and AC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR75X940D
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 3,877
    I’ll be following this as I am in the same situation. Since my PSB imagine minis cannot take bananas, I am considering just converting mine into bananas on one end, bare wire one the other. Any idea how hard that would be?
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Parasound HCA-1205A; Arcam rDac; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Def Tech Procenter 1000; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; Sony BDP-S390, FireTV gen 2

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine Mini, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, FireTV, Arcam rDac; Bryson BPD-1
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 247
    What cables do you have? If AQ the terminations come off pretty easily. Just an Allen wrench and screwdriver are needed.
    2 Channel
    Pre:Parasound JC2BP
    Amp:Bryston 4B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton One
    Source: Oppo 103D, Mac Mini, Bryston BDA-3
    Cables: AQ Castlerock Speaker, AQ Columbia XLR/RCA, AQ Diamond USB
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Panasonic TC-P65ZT60

    Home Theater
    Reciever: Yamaha CX-A5100
    Amp: Parasound A21, A31, A51
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 703 (Fl, FR, RL, RR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB13 x 3 (4th is on the way) +DSPeaker Anti-Mode Dual Core
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Power: PS Audio P5 Regenerator, Furman IT Reference 15i, Pangea AC14SE and AC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR75X940D
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,714
    Paul, do you have the same cables?
    The problem with having them bare is that they're solid conductor, not stranded. Might be difficult to "collect" the conductors and properly cinch down in a 5-way binding post hole.
    The other thing I noticed is that when the conductors are of different gauges, it's difficult to get a nice twist. The smaller conductors tend to just wrap around the thicker ones.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    I’ll be following this as I am in the same situation. Since my PSB imagine minis cannot take bananas, I am considering just converting mine into bananas on one end, bare wire one the other. Any idea how hard that would be?
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 247
    AudioQuest make these:
    qmdhlyzybfmo.png
    2 Channel
    Pre:Parasound JC2BP
    Amp:Bryston 4B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton One
    Source: Oppo 103D, Mac Mini, Bryston BDA-3
    Cables: AQ Castlerock Speaker, AQ Columbia XLR/RCA, AQ Diamond USB
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Panasonic TC-P65ZT60

    Home Theater
    Reciever: Yamaha CX-A5100
    Amp: Parasound A21, A31, A51
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 703 (Fl, FR, RL, RR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB13 x 3 (4th is on the way) +DSPeaker Anti-Mode Dual Core
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Power: PS Audio P5 Regenerator, Furman IT Reference 15i, Pangea AC14SE and AC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR75X940D
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,714
    You are becoming my AudioQuest guru.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 3,877
    edited February 8
    msg wrote: »
    Paul, do you have the same cables?
    The problem with having them bare is that they're solid conductor, not stranded. Might be difficult to "collect" the conductors and properly cinch down in a 5-way binding post hole.
    The other thing I noticed is that when the conductors are of different gauges, it's difficult to get a nice twist. The smaller conductors tend to just wrap around the thicker ones.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    I’ll be following this as I am in the same situation. Since my PSB imagine minis cannot take bananas, I am considering just converting mine into bananas on one end, bare wire one the other. Any idea how hard that would be?

    Kid has the flu so I am at home and decided to get out the cables and see what can be done.

    @msg I have the type-4, so does that make a difference? Can’t those be purchased as bare?
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Parasound HCA-1205A; Arcam rDac; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Def Tech Procenter 1000; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; Sony BDP-S390, FireTV gen 2

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine Mini, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, FireTV, Arcam rDac; Bryson BPD-1
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 247
    The Type-4 can be purchased bare by the foot
    http://www.audioquest.com/star_quad_bulk_spools/type-4
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQT4B

    Audio Advisor also has some versions of the Type-4 with budget terminations.
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQT4NF
    2 Channel
    Pre:Parasound JC2BP
    Amp:Bryston 4B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton One
    Source: Oppo 103D, Mac Mini, Bryston BDA-3
    Cables: AQ Castlerock Speaker, AQ Columbia XLR/RCA, AQ Diamond USB
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Panasonic TC-P65ZT60

    Home Theater
    Reciever: Yamaha CX-A5100
    Amp: Parasound A21, A31, A51
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 703 (Fl, FR, RL, RR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB13 x 3 (4th is on the way) +DSPeaker Anti-Mode Dual Core
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Power: PS Audio P5 Regenerator, Furman IT Reference 15i, Pangea AC14SE and AC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR75X940D
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,714
    Type-4 will be 2 conductors per connector instead of 4, I believe. I think this is the same stuff DannyLightning bought bare, yes, and made some SCs.

    You could probably get two conductors into a binding post. I haven't read up to see what the effective gauge is.

    But I like those pin connectors sgmsmg posted up above. Not sure how they work, whether like crimp tubes or require solder?
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 247
    I found this on the conductor sizes:
    -four solid, pure copper conductors
    -two 17-gauge and two 20-gauge for full-range signal transfer
    -conductors arranged in cross pattern to minimize mutual interference
    -current-carrying equivalent of a pair of 15-gauge conductors
    2 Channel
    Pre:Parasound JC2BP
    Amp:Bryston 4B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton One
    Source: Oppo 103D, Mac Mini, Bryston BDA-3
    Cables: AQ Castlerock Speaker, AQ Columbia XLR/RCA, AQ Diamond USB
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Panasonic TC-P65ZT60

    Home Theater
    Reciever: Yamaha CX-A5100
    Amp: Parasound A21, A31, A51
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 703 (Fl, FR, RL, RR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB13 x 3 (4th is on the way) +DSPeaker Anti-Mode Dual Core
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Power: PS Audio P5 Regenerator, Furman IT Reference 15i, Pangea AC14SE and AC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR75X940D
  • pkquatpkquat Posts: 534
    Thanks for all the info.

    It took me a while to find where I hid the spades. They were indeed Vampire. In the process I found some more screw down banana's. I think I will start with those and see. I assume the bias cables get included in the wrapping with everything else.

    Any recommendations for a good stiff cable jacket. I assume that is one of the benefits of the original cables, and would reduce the strain right at the connection.
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