I heard this about JB Weld, wondering if it’s true

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MrBlackCrow
MrBlackCrow Posts: 23
edited December 2017 in Speakers
I was doing research on the net about jb weld. I wound up on a site for bicycle enthusiasts. Anyway, some guy had to fix a hub or something...someone wrote in and said,”JB Weld, a very good epoxy, has no shear strength, and is easily detached with shearing motions”. He went on to say Loctite was better for that guys hub. Now, I’m wondering if that is true that JB weld has no “shear strength”. So, I am going to glue some magnets on my speakers. At first I was going to use Loctite, then I was wondering about it because it says one of the surfaces must be porous. If I used the JB weld and the speakers accidentally got dropped would it help me any? Would dropping a speaker be considered shear force? If the above statement is true about shear strength I wonder. Thanks
Music Hall MMF-2.2 > Musical Fidelity V-LPS 2 or NAD C 516BEE > Emotiva XSP-1 G2 > Emotiva UPA-1 (x2) > vintage Polk Audio monitor 7c TL modded w/ Sonicaps and mills & RD0-198’s

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  • TNTsTunes
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    This is what I actually use.

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    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."


  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,576
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    Myth busters proved that with JB weld on one of there shows.
    Loctite power grab all purpose or the heavy duty both say water clean up and one side needs to be porous but many here had great luck with it. Put it on and the smooth and push it in with a finger above and below the magnet seems to work good.
  • motorhead43026
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    It takes very little to make the magnets shift. At the same time it takes very little to prevent them from shifting. Whatever you use, once dry acts like a wedge to keep the magnet from shifting. The magnet surface is plenty porous so the Loctite works great. Shear strength does not even come close to being in play here. JB weld is complete overkill and messy to work with.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

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  • MrBlackCrow
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    Ah, I will use the Loctite then. Thanks Motorhead.
    Music Hall MMF-2.2 > Musical Fidelity V-LPS 2 or NAD C 516BEE > Emotiva XSP-1 G2 > Emotiva UPA-1 (x2) > vintage Polk Audio monitor 7c TL modded w/ Sonicaps and mills & RD0-198’s