New internal hook up wire for speakers

If someone was to install new internal hook up wire for the speakers you think something like this would work very well ? My thoughts is to use red and black twisted together and white and green twisted together for positive and negative tabs on the drivers. I was pretty sure DK Raife used Audioquest but do not remember which I'm pretty sure this was not one he tried in his.

Thoughts ?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audioquest-SP-16-4-16-AWG-bulk-Speaker-cable-sold-by-the-foot-unterminated/162082841562?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Comments

  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 14,940
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    If someone was to install new internal hook up wire for the speakers you think something like this would work very well ? My thoughts is to use red and black twisted together and white and green twisted together for positive and negative tabs on the drivers. I was pretty sure DK Raife used Audioquest but do not remember which I'm pretty sure this was not one he tried in his.

    Thoughts ?


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Audioquest-SP-16-4-16-AWG-bulk-Speaker-cable-sold-by-the-foot-unterminated/162082841562?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

    Ray @DarqueKnight used pricier cable, but it was Audioquest. I've used FLX 14/4 many times for bi-wiring or just regular speaker wire with great success.

    The "other Dan" @mantis can likely tell you more about this stuff, but I think its just a spool of their installer grade in-wall speaker wire (see link). Should be decent...

    Otherwise Dougs got similar cable for not too bad a price either plus our discount. If I had to guess I'd say Furez is equivalent to Audioquest in this instance.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • MalbecMalbec Posts: 415
    Ray used AudioQuest GO-4 15 AWG Hyper-Litz.
    He also used Cardas Litz 9.5AWG on a couple projects if I'm not mistaken.
  • DarqueKnightDarqueKnight Posts: 6,129
    I first rewired my SDA 1.2TL's with Cardas 9.5 AWG, then replaced that with AudioQuest GO-4.

    All my other SDAs and my LSi speakers were rewired with Cardas 9.5 AWG.
    "So hot it burns Mice!"~DK
    "Polk SDA-SRSs are hopelessly out of date both sonically and technologically... I see no value whatsoever in older SDA speakers."~Audio Asylum Member
    "Knowledge, without understanding, is a path to failure."~DK
    "Those who irrationally rail against something or someone that is no threat to them, actually desire (or desire to be like) the thing or person they are railing against."~DK
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 13,648
    Check out he Wireworld Helicon 16. It comes in OFC and OCC versions.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: P3ESR, 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: CP-6311, Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S60, S55, S35, S30, S20, S15, RTA 15tl, Sonner Audio Allegro Unum
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Dayens Ampino, Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, AURALiC Altair, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    I first rewired my SDA 1.2TL's with Cardas 9.5 AWG, then replaced that with AudioQuest GO-4.

    All my other SDAs and my LSi speakers were rewired with Cardas 9.5 AWG.

    I was hoping you would see this and chime in
    Thanks Raife
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    Thanks Mr. Skip
  • DarqueKnightDarqueKnight Posts: 6,129
    AudioQuest sells a few of their cable models unterminated. Refer to pages 36 and 37 of the current (June 1, 2016) pricebook, which can be downloaded from their website (scrool all the way to the bottom).

    Any AudioQuest dealer can order this for you. Shop around for the best deal. I ordered an 80 foot spool from Audio Advisor.

    aw0jcr5e8lny.jpg


    Below is my thread about the GO-4 rewire. Sorry about the missing pics. Send any complaints to the shakedown artists at Ph0t0$uckit.

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/141258/audioquest-go-4-internal-wire-replacement-for-the-sda-srs-1-2tl/p1
    "So hot it burns Mice!"~DK
    "Polk SDA-SRSs are hopelessly out of date both sonically and technologically... I see no value whatsoever in older SDA speakers."~Audio Asylum Member
    "Knowledge, without understanding, is a path to failure."~DK
    "Those who irrationally rail against something or someone that is no threat to them, actually desire (or desire to be like) the thing or person they are railing against."~DK
  • mantismantis Posts: 14,643
    I think using FLX or SLP from Audio quest in a 14-4 or even 16-4 configuration for internal wiring would be excellent.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    mantis wrote: »
    I think using FLX or SLP from Audio quest in a 14-4 or even 16-4 configuration for internal wiring would be excellent.

    You have a great can't be beat price per foot there Dan? I'd lean to the 14-4 twisting two together. Both of those are LGC and one being in wall correct
  • machonemachone Posts: 835

    DSkip wrote: »
    Check out he Wireworld Helicon 16. It comes in OFC and OCC versions.

    I used the OFC version of the Helicon 16 in my 2.3TL's.
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 21 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Marantz SA 8005>> Equinox 7>>
    Hafler DH-110 Preamp + (Musical Concepts LXII Elite Mod) >>Equinox 7>>
    Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod) >>Belden 5000 10 ga cables>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    machone wrote: »
    DSkip wrote: »
    Check out he Wireworld Helicon 16. It comes in OFC and OCC versions.

    I used the OFC version of the Helicon 16 in my 2.3TL's.

    Notice a difference?
  • machonemachone Posts: 835
    Pittdogg2,

    This is what I posted shortly after I installed the wire.
    "The improved separation of instruments and vocals creates more depth, clarity and realism."

    It's a lot of work building the harnesses but I am glad I did it. It also presents the opportunity to replace the fastons. Some of the originals were not as tight as they should have been.
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 21 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Marantz SA 8005>> Equinox 7>>
    Hafler DH-110 Preamp + (Musical Concepts LXII Elite Mod) >>Equinox 7>>
    Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod) >>Belden 5000 10 ga cables>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    Thanks did you use the ohno or ofc?
  • mantismantis Posts: 14,643
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    mantis wrote: »
    I think using FLX or SLP from Audio quest in a 14-4 or even 16-4 configuration for internal wiring would be excellent.

    You have a great can't be beat price per foot there Dan? I'd lean to the 14-4 twisting two together. Both of those are LGC and one being in wall correct
    PM me , I can hook you up. Just let me know how much you need in feet.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • machonemachone Posts: 835
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Thanks did you use the ohno or ofc?

    OFC
    It took 15 meters to do the 2.3TL's.
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 21 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Marantz SA 8005>> Equinox 7>>
    Hafler DH-110 Preamp + (Musical Concepts LXII Elite Mod) >>Equinox 7>>
    Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts PA-6 Elite Mod) >>Belden 5000 10 ga cables>>
    SRS 2.3TL (Fully Modified)...SDA-1A (Fully Modified with Dimensional Tweeter Delete)
    1KVA Dreadnought
    Pioneer PLX-1000 Turntable - Shure SC35C/N35X - V15III/VN35HE
    Yamaha TX-540 Tuner...Sony BDP-S570

    Separate subpanel with four dedicated 20 amp circuits.
    1. Amplification 2. Analog 3. Digital 4. Video

    "All THAT IS LOST FROM THE SOURCE IS LOST FOREVER"
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    machone wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Thanks did you use the ohno or ofc?

    OFC
    It took 15 meters to do the 2.3TL's.

    Thanks a bunch machone
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 14,940
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    machone wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Thanks did you use the ohno or ofc?

    OFC
    It took 15 meters to do the 2.3TL's.

    Thanks a bunch machone

    So you gonna start with re-wiring them internally first, and then do the Xover upgrades I take it?
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    edited November 28
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    machone wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Thanks did you use the ohno or ofc?

    OFC
    It took 15 meters to do the 2.3TL's.

    Thanks a bunch machone

    So you gonna start with re-wiring them internally first, and then do the Xover upgrades I take it?

    I'm speaking hypothetically. I have a friend who is asking me to look into stuff for him. Trying to get all ducks in a row to give an idea what the full Monty will be for him.

    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    So is there a downside to using silver coated copper wire? Is it grainy or harsh sounding?

    Has anybody used Silvered copper? I'm not talking tinned copper
  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,069
    Personally, I would do OCC wire. In my experience, it gives greater clarity and detail compared to OFC.

    I must confess, I have not used OCC for rewiring the internal wiring in my SDA's, so far. But, when I used it in my DAC it was very evident in the sound quality difference.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 13,648
    Headrott, I shared the exact same sentiments with him via pm. Glad to see others have the same experience. OCC gets expensive quick though so I see the dilemma.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: P3ESR, 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: CP-6311, Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S60, S55, S35, S30, S20, S15, RTA 15tl, Sonner Audio Allegro Unum
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Dayens Ampino, Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, AURALiC Altair, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    No decisions have been made. I'm just doing my due diligence to cover all bases. Silver coated copper had been brought up by another. I have only used it in video applications and was under the impression that for audio it could be harsh, sterile or whatever.
    Skip is correct when using 60-65 feet that cost can get out if control quick like.
    Thanks guys
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,300
    FWIW, I don't like the sound of "pure" silver wire -- dunno about the silver-plated copper; no ears-on experience. I guess there's some logic to silver-plated copper, related to the skin effect (which isn't really a factor at audio frequencies, tho' some folks insist that it can be) and the relative resistivity of silver vs. copper.

    YMMV. I'd say try before you invest too heavily in it.
    "Some amps run on self bias, some amps run on fixed bias. But his amps run on confirmation bias." -- seen on audioasylum

  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 13,648
    i mean no disrespect with this comment and I hope it doesn't come across that way. I've found silver to be incredible but only when the system is at a higher level. In most systems it sounds bad, but when true high end components enter the system, the silver really begins to shine. It can still sound bad in such systems but I would blame that more on poor synergy between components more than the cable.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: P3ESR, 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: CP-6311, Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S60, S55, S35, S30, S20, S15, RTA 15tl, Sonner Audio Allegro Unum
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Dayens Ampino, Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, AURALiC Altair, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,302
    I'm now using solid silver cables between the power supply and the main amp. For years I was afraid this would result in a bright sound. Boy, was I wrong and sorry I waited so long to get the cables. They brought even more realism to my rig that I thought was pretty real already.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,300
    You guys know more about this stuff than do I.
    "Some amps run on self bias, some amps run on fixed bias. But his amps run on confirmation bias." -- seen on audioasylum

  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,069
    F1nut wrote: »
    I'm now using solid silver cables between the power supply and the main amp. For years I was afraid this would result in a bright sound. Boy, was I wrong and sorry I waited so long to get the cables. They brought even more realism to my rig that I thought was pretty real already.

    What cable are you using Jesse?
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
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