Bi-Amp question........

My buddy found this NILES stereo L-Pad controller box in his closet full of stuff, which gave me an idea that I thought I might like to try.
As I'd mentioned before, I think the tweeters in my SVS towers are a bit forward sounding.
I'm wondering if I could tame them a bit by running the "A" channels through the Niles to the tweeters and the "B" channels to the woofers.
That way, I can dial the tweeters back in the mix.
Any thoughts ?

Comments

  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 1,460
    What are you currently using to power your speakers?
  • Polkaguy58Polkaguy58 Posts: 281
    edited November 25
    A Marantz 80 watt per channel integrated amp.
    I meant the A/B speaker outs not channels also.
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,017
    edited November 25
    Polkaguy58 wrote: »
    My buddy found this NILES stereo L-Pad controller... ...which gave me an idea that I thought I might like to try. I think the tweeters in my SVS towers are a bit forward sounding.
    ...If I could tame them a bit by running the "A" channels through the Niles to the tweeters and the "B" channels to the woofers... ...dial the tweeters back in the mix.
    Any thoughts ?
    try it. No harm, no foul if you don't like it. Further, amps, ICs, and speaker cables can do only so much to "correct" such problems. IIRC someone used a 4 ohm as a tweeter jumper on RTi 4s & LOVED it

    Take it from someone who did "the real deal" triamping RTi A7s* & a CSi A6* w/"preferred" amps. While they're* MUUUCH better, I'm looking to upgrade the tweeters one day.

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/174880/tri-amped-rti-a7#latest

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/175612/tri-amped-csi-a6#latest
    Post edited by gp4jesus on
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 975 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7. Woofers, Rotel 98X amp; M & T, P'sound HCA-1000
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: 4 Evidence - 1 at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3*
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
    *Bi-amped early 2018 (I hope)
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 1,460
    Not knowing what your system consists of if you haven't already did any of these, I would start with:

    Replacing the stock jumpers with higher quality ones. This is probably one of the most overlooked and biggest bang for the buck improvement one can make.

    Power conditioner, protecting your gear and getting clean power to it should come before one even thinks of adding more power.

    Interconnects and speaker cables. Cheap wire, bad termination, and connectors that don't grip properly just aren't worth it. Not advocating high dollar cables by any means. Good quality cables don't have to be expensive.

    As far as adding an amp, I think you would have better results using a high current 2-channel amp with good quality jumpers than trying to bi-amp with a lesser quality amp. Not saying Niles doesn't make quality gear, just don't see many people, if any running them in 2-channel systems. Mainly see those in HT systems powering surrounds.

  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,017
    edited November 25
    +1 on power conditioning your low-current equipment, wimpy-sized cable, and quality speaker power.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 975 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7. Woofers, Rotel 98X amp; M & T, P'sound HCA-1000
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: 4 Evidence - 1 at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3*
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
    *Bi-amped early 2018 (I hope)
  • Polkaguy58Polkaguy58 Posts: 281
    As far as power conditioning goes, I run a Triplite system that I used to employ for my gear back in my recording days.
    My speaker cables are stock 16 gauge speaker wire, less than 10 feet in length, so I doubt these old tinitus plagued ears will appreciate overly expensive mega-cables in that short of a run.
    I'm quite happy with my mid-fi thanks.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 27,815
    Your not happy if your complaining about the sound from your tweets. Plus nobody suggested mega buck cables, just better ones. At the very least, Svs towers would benefit from a larger gauge, 12 gauge.
    legacy Focus 20/20
    Butler tdb 2250
    Cary Xciter dac
    Joule LA-100
    Pioneer BDP 320
    Sony 4k 55 850c
    FX 500 surround
    Acoustic zen Satori SC's
    Pioneer elite vsx21
    Sonos-Cullen mod.
    Audio Metallurgy GA-0 digital
    PS Audio Quintet
    Analysis Plus crystal ovals
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2's IC
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,182
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Marantz SR5010, Emotiva BasX-A300
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk TSX250C
    Front High TC80i
    Rear: Polk MC80
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S30
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • gp4jesusgp4jesus Posts: 1,017
    edited December 5
    tonyb wrote: »
    ...would benefit from a larger gauge, 12 gauge.
    . +2!
    Better still, if it will fit your present or future connectors, some 10 ga from Blue Jeans - competitively $d.

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 975 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, DirecTV Rcvr, Xbox 360, Dennon LDP, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside & out

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7. Woofers, Rotel 98X amp; M & T, P'sound HCA-1000
    CC: Rotel RB985 -> tri-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: 1 B1.39: 4 Evidence - 1 at each corner
    Surrounds: Hafler XL280 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3*
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
    *Bi-amped early 2018 (I hope)
  • Polkaguy58Polkaguy58 Posts: 281
    edited December 5
    tonyb wrote: »
    Your not happy if your complaining about the sound from your tweets. Plus nobody suggested mega buck cables, just better ones. At the very least, Svs towers would benefit from a larger gauge, 12 gauge.

    I hope I haven't come off as complaining about anything in my posts, because I'm not.
    I'm just stating the facts the way I see them and in this case it was that I thought my SVS tweeters were too hot.
    I fixed that problem and it cost me 25 dollars to do it.
    Sorry if I don't see eye to eye with you on the whole fancy cable thing, but until the day that I can actually sit down and A/B a set up with and without boutique cables, then I probably won't go that route.
    My system, though it's better than anything that I've ever owned is more than likely low to mid-fi at best to a lot of folk here.............I'm ok with that.
    I will however try and get out to find some better gauge wire.
    The 16 gauge was the best I could find in the area, as I'm grounded until motorcycle season starts next spring.
    Post edited by Polkaguy58 on
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,182
    Oh my were not recommending fancy boutique cables. BJC and Doug's Furez are some of the best bang for the buck you can get. The $1 or so a foot is not bad for quality speaker wire.

    I use to be in the Monoprice cables. I changed out the Monoprice 12AWG speaker wire for Doug's 10AWG Furez and yes it did make a difference. I was not the only one who noticed. When my wife ask what changed, I knew I was not alone.

    To each their own but I did notice nice improvements moving HDMI cables to Audioquest and speaker wire to Furez
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Marantz SR5010, Emotiva BasX-A300
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk TSX250C
    Front High TC80i
    Rear: Polk MC80
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S30
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Polkaguy58Polkaguy58 Posts: 281
    Cool !
    I'll look into them.
    My only problem might be that they won't fit into the old school spring type in/out connectors on the Niles box, but I'm sure I can adapt with some end pins that I have somewhere in the closet.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,115
    Polkaguy58 wrote: »
    Cool !
    I'll look into them.
    My only problem might be that they won't fit into the old school spring type in/out connectors on the Niles box, but I'm sure I can adapt with some end pins that I have somewhere in the closet.

    Pins are your huckleberry
  • Polkaguy58Polkaguy58 Posts: 281
    Bi-Wiring Epilogue:
    So, because it's a rainy day and I just can't leave well enough alone, I decided to see what the speakers would sound like bi-wired, but without my Niles volume control on the tweeters.
    I also switched the -3db tweeter toggle on the back of the SVS Towers to 0 and even activated the CD Direct button on the Marantz, for the most unaltered sound that my system is capable of producing.
    I've come to the conclusion, that my ears seem to be geared for sound that is slightly "dumbed down" and warm in nature.
    That's probably why I tend to gravitate to vintage recievers and speakers with silk dome tweeters, as opposed to Klipsch like horns and high end pre/power amp sytems that can audibly point out every little flaw throughout the audio chain and beyond to the actual recordings.
    I think if I ever made the great leap into audio nirvana, that I'd probably have to throw out 3/4 of my music collection.
    To make a long story shorter:
    I put the Niles back into the tweeter chain, switched off the CD Direct button, added a tad of midrange and backed the tweeters down a couple of clicks.
    Now I'm home again.
    A wise old orangatan once said: "Be careful what you seek Taylor........You may not like what you find out there."
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