Marantz sr-6011.....Polk S60.......can I use 4 channels to power 2 towers?

MackMurderMackMurder Posts: 27
Ok so the marantz 9.2 channel amp has like 110 wrms @8 ohms per channel

I know the S60s can be bi-wired or bi-amped

Bi amp means more power from 2 different amps. Adds better sound and more detailed?

My question is could I use two front channels for the lows and 2 surround channels for the highs? For a total of 220 wrms per tower? Or will that **** up my amp.and or speakers
Home theater:
-Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
-Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
-Tech 1200's
-Polk S60 Towers

Car Audio:
-4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
-Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
-hertz 1000watt 4 channel
-hertz mille component speakers
-hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
-370amp mechman alternator
-2xs power 3300 amp batteries
-2/0 gauge ofc everything

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,597
    It doesn't work like that. You cannot bi-amp from a piece of audio gear that has a single shared power supply as does every AVR made. Pure marketing hype.....otherwise known as BS.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • awsome thanks F1. Bi wiring would be the option for me tho correct? With some good wire as opposed to the stock material Polk provides?
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 1,650
    Bi-wiring, running 2 sets of cables, from 2 different out puts, to each individual's binding post on your speakers, can be done with most AVR's. Most people hear no difference from using this method or a single cable run.

    More people hear a difference when they remove the factory jumpers and replace it with jumpers made with good quality wire.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,189
    rpf65 wrote: »
    More people hear a difference when they remove the factory jumpers and replace it with jumpers made with good quality wire.

    Yes, just do this. Ideally try to make he jumpers from the same wire as the cable. Blue jeans cable has some nice affordable options.
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Parasound HCA-1205A; Arcam rDac; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Def Tech Procenter 1000; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; Sony BDP-S390, FireTV gen 2

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine Mini, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, FireTV, Arcam rDac; Bryson BPD-1
  • Done and done
    Home theater:
    -Samsung 65" Q7F Qled - XboxOneX
    -Marantz 9.2 Channel SR6011
    -Tech 1200's
    -Polk S60 Towers

    Car Audio:
    -4500 wrms cresendo mono block amp
    -Fi SP4 v2 18" sub (3000 wrms)
    -hertz 1000watt 4 channel
    -hertz mille component speakers
    -hertz spl 10" 600 wrms sub
    -370amp mechman alternator
    -2xs power 3300 amp batteries
    -2/0 gauge ofc everything
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