Corrosion Resistant Grease for Speaker Wire

I have to hang the Atrium 8s on Deckzilla this weekend....what would all y'all recommend for the exposed copper wires and binding posts to **** corrosion....I have brake grease and several Vaseline type products. Go ahead and take your shots....then tell me what would work best....cheers!
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Comments

  • nbrowsernbrowser Posts: 6,866
    Dielectric compound....same crap you'd use on spark plug wire boots, electrical connections etc. It's the perfect stuff. Seriously, final answer

    /thread end.
    Living room: Samsung UN55KU7000 4K UHD HDR 55 inch TV, Marantz CD6004, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon, Parasound zPhono, Mac Mini, Oppo BDP-93, XBox One S 2Tb, Kenwood DPX792BH car deck for radio purposes, Marantz SR5010 AVR, Parasound HCA-1200II, Front SDA 2 modded with Larrys Rings and RD0-194-1 tweeters, Rear Onkyo SKF-4800 Towers, Center CSiA6, BOOM Tannoy TS2.12 Sub, Audioquest Evergreen interconnects just about everywhere except from AVR to amp, MIT Terminator 4, MIT AVT3 speaker cables with extra terminals covered up Monitor 5 Jr+ in the wings for a center channel.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 714
    edited November 10
    Dielectric grease. The others can react to plastics.

    @nbrowser you beat me by seconds
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,806
    Why are you not using gold plated bananas?
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 714
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 3,664
    I live in central Tx, humidity is pretty high here (though not like the Deep South or Florida) and I have lived in this house for 6 years with speakers under a small awning with bare wire running in. The only problem I have had is with the damn birds that want to build a nest on my speaker...wires haven’t been a problem.
    HT Rig:
    Yamaha RX-A1010; Parasound HCA-1000a; Arcam rDac; Mains: PSB Imagine Mini + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Def Tech Procenter 1000; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; Sony BDP-S390, FireTV gen 2

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Audiosource Amp Two, Dynaudio Emit 10, NHT Super One CI, ACI Titan subwoofer, FireTV, Arcam rDac; Bryson BPD-1
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,136
    Goose grease
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,806
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.

    Interesting. I know a set that has been in use for 6 yrs. in the elements that has not happened. Maybe because we used shrink tubing around the body and down the wire about 6 inches.
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 477
    Ilsco De-Ox and black spray paint.
    Polk SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Silk Audio MS38SE Tube Amp
    Yamaha DSP A-1 AV Amp
    Panasonic TC-P65S2 Plasma TV
  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,705
    Replace binging posts with "gold" ones and same with wire conections problem solved. Unless you live right on salt water no further steps needed.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    YAMMY cdp
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,136
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.

    It's got nothing to do with being rated for outdoor use. It's got to do with being cheap a$$ connectors using the wrong base metal. Any half decent connector uses copper, brass or phosphorus bronze as the base metal, which do not rust.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,026
    Viking64 wrote: »
    .......black spray paint.

    Please, do not bring up this substance. This is a banned topic on the Polk forum, as far as I know...... :)
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • nbrowsernbrowser Posts: 6,866
    Living room: Samsung UN55KU7000 4K UHD HDR 55 inch TV, Marantz CD6004, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon, Parasound zPhono, Mac Mini, Oppo BDP-93, XBox One S 2Tb, Kenwood DPX792BH car deck for radio purposes, Marantz SR5010 AVR, Parasound HCA-1200II, Front SDA 2 modded with Larrys Rings and RD0-194-1 tweeters, Rear Onkyo SKF-4800 Towers, Center CSiA6, BOOM Tannoy TS2.12 Sub, Audioquest Evergreen interconnects just about everywhere except from AVR to amp, MIT Terminator 4, MIT AVT3 speaker cables with extra terminals covered up Monitor 5 Jr+ in the wings for a center channel.
  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,026
    edited November 11
    nbrowser wrote: »

    I don't think the Permatex is "outer space approved" though. I would definately pay the $710.00 for the extra assurance and reliability. So, the space grease cost more than the speakers?! So what!! We don't want those cheap a$$ connectors rusting, after all. Besides, why spend money on better connectors, when you can brag to your friends that you have space lube on your connectors, that is protecting them for several times the price.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 8,330
    kevhed72 wrote: »

    Jeez at that price it better do wonders on my junk too :o
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures, Simaudio 780D DAC
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Modwright LS100, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers
  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,026
    Come Jesse, just 'cause you haven't had the pleasure.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:

    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\

    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 714
    F1nut wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.

    It's got nothing to do with being rated for outdoor use. It's got to do with being cheap a$$ connectors using the wrong base metal.

    That too!
  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 1,531
    I always coat all the connections on my outdoor speakers with DeoxIt gold. No corrosion issues for me.
  • billbillwbillbillw Posts: 5,667
    I would tin the leads on the copper wire (aka tiny bit of solder). Helps from excessive fraying too.
    Main 2-ch:
    Sony SS-M9; LSA Statement Amplifier; VPI HW-19 Mk3/Sumiko Premier FT-4/Audio Technica AT15SA; Pass Labs DIY Pearl Phono; Sony SCD-C333ES SACD Changer; TEAC UD-301 DAC; Dell/WYSE 5010 (running Daphile); Sony ST-SA5ES Tuner; Nanotec Golden Strada speaker cables (SR+#79 Shotgun); Audioquest Coral interconnects
  • kevhed72kevhed72 Posts: 2,896
    I hit HD yesterday and of course it took forever to find all the necessary supplies to ensure the Atrium 8s dont fall on anyone's head. As you can see, they dwarf the Atrium 4s:
    572t5od9tp3b.jpeg
  • WillowWillow Posts: 8,736
    Interesting post. I took away my back yard speakers. All good except the one right next to the pool. The connectors were no longer brass. Look more like faded metal. I'll have to get some grease next spring to help protect that one and perhaps find a different location.
    2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607(pre), Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Tributaries Optical, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Rotel RDV 1045 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII and Android MXQ Amlogic S805 Media player. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Rotel 1075, Polk Patio 25x4, MIT AVT3 ICs

  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,705
    edited November 13
    Chlorine gas from pool. Eats almost all metal eventually
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    YAMMY cdp
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • WillowWillow Posts: 8,736
    Chlorine gas from pool. Eats almost all metal eventually

    This was after 6 mths. We keep our pool at the lowest levels possible. It's very rare that I crank up the salt chlorinator up high. Unless after a party.
    2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607(pre), Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Tributaries Optical, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Rotel RDV 1045 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII and Android MXQ Amlogic S805 Media player. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Rotel 1075, Polk Patio 25x4, MIT AVT3 ICs

  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,705
    How" high" is a relative matter. Chlorine is chlorine virtually no levels are good for any metal. Think about what it's doing to the voice coils and any other metal baskets from your speakers excetera excetera excetera. The only thing you can really do at this point is to keep your speakers as far away from the pool surface as possible and be prepared to replace wire every season. Air flow isn't a bad idea to keep it from concentrating, a large fan in the pool area running 24/7 wouldn't hurt but it's like holding back the tide. Just accept the fact that you're going to have a higher maintenance than anyplace else in the house.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    YAMMY cdp
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • kevhed72kevhed72 Posts: 2,896
    Interesting tie in here...when they were taking apart the old deck I noticed the old metal flashing was corroded. The house is only 14 years old....my guess is it was the bleach I used on the vinyl siding during the powerwashing process. Bleach works wonders down here in the pollen-belt, but is corrosive and Im told can jack up the soap pump in power washers overs time.
  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,705
    Yes you need to replace all rubber gromets, washers, etc in presure washers after every 2/3 uses or every 6 mo. or so. Also use only "buffered" chlorine not bleach! Also for exterior home cleaning an algaecide is also a good idea.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    YAMMY cdp
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,806
    edited November 14
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    Interesting tie in here...when they were taking apart the old deck I noticed the old metal flashing was corroded. The house is only 14 years old....my guess is it was the bleach I used on the vinyl siding during the powerwashing process. Bleach works wonders down here in the pollen-belt, but is corrosive and Im told can jack up the soap pump in power washers overs time.

    OH YES IT WILL

    It would eat everything in short order in my hand pump pressure sprayer I used in my old basement shower stall to combat molds and mildew. After a few months it would no longer hold pressure and the spray handle just fell apart.

    I had to get "aggressive chemical" sprayers.
    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
  • WillowWillow Posts: 8,736
    How" high" is a relative matter. Chlorine is chlorine virtually no levels are good for any metal. Think about what it's doing to the voice coils and any other metal baskets from your speakers excetera excetera excetera. The only thing you can really do at this point is to keep your speakers as far away from the pool surface as possible and be prepared to replace wire every season. Air flow isn't a bad idea to keep it from concentrating, a large fan in the pool area running 24/7 wouldn't hurt but it's like holding back the tide. Just accept the fact that you're going to have a higher maintenance than anyplace else in the house.

    I agree, next spring I'll be moving that one speaker away from the pool. It was right next to it this summer. Next year it will be a good 10 feet away.

    2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607(pre), Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Tributaries Optical, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Rotel RDV 1045 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII and Android MXQ Amlogic S805 Media player. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Rotel 1075, Polk Patio 25x4, MIT AVT3 ICs

  • soundfreak1soundfreak1 Posts: 2,705
    Just so you'll know chlorine won't even kill mildew it only defoliate the flower on mildew plants it'll grow back and then you'll see the black again it never kills the root system you need to use a good algaecide that will actually kill the root of the mildew plant and then it will be destroyed completely this is something I used to do professionally in the Florida area it's a big business down here the chlorine is used just at the defoliant to give the impression that you've killed it immediately but in actuality the plant will just RE foliate within a few months and the mildew stays there until you actually kill it with an algaecide or appropriate Mildowside. Just saying!
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    YAMMY cdp
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
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