Another Cap question

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  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 1,566
    TNTsTunes wrote: »

    Maybe you can send him one of your partial bottles to try it out???

    Know way hose A! The Batcave Goth Ball is on Black Friday and if my costume isn't 100%, Tabitha Hemlock, the president of The Vermont Nightshade Consortium, will put a curse on my Frankenmullet!
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    There's a nice little chip in the center and a couple very small edge nicks that will nag at me if I don't remedy...
    ow5dmwfaqo8u.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    edited November 2017
    Will strong neodymium magnets attached to the sheet metal cover affect the transformer/power board or phono section?

    The face just had too many gouges upon closer inspection so I took it down to brushed alloy. I'm at the crossroads of the look and I would want to hide the side screws under brushed long panels and machine insets for magnets.... or replicate small factory face plate sides from aluminum and use the custom machined washers to match as seen here...
    rt7jqrma12oq.jpg
    a5ex9zhnc7p3.jpg
    84ndkm9wylxg.jpg

    Also I traced down and jumpered off the power idicator LED for a string of detachable Red LEDs that light the interior nicely as well.....
    xyth8ggxcfla.jpg

    Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

    Post edited by xschop on
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    I'm beginning to get the feeling that no one has set the precedent for magnetic attachment method. I'll refrain and side panel it another way to be safe from the unknown.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,796
    Yeah, I don't think you want magnets near the transformer.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    Santa stopped by early with a Mouser package...

    snf3qjhrytcf.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    Big Caps installed. They will literally be about 1/8" from the top cover. Is that ok, or do I need to put an insulator between the two?
    8slrscreuo02.jpg
    fff5qx3gxavl.jpg

    Also the only old cap that had a previous owner/tech's red mark on it was a 1500uf cap that tested right at 1500uf whereas the new nichicon tested at 1430uf....
    Replace or not since it is the only one that I could not get in FG series?

    z3f865vay80a.jpg


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,796
    If it were me I'd definitely put something between the caps and lid.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,835
    F1nut wrote: »
    If it were me I'd definitely put something between the caps and lid.

    Just to help keep from lid contact?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,796
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    If it were me I'd definitely put something between the caps and lid.

    Just to help keep from lid contact?

    Yes
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,893
    Be careful what you use. The tops of the caps are normally scored to allow them to expand or pop open, rather than explode.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
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    Den:
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,835
    Be careful what you use. The tops of the caps are normally scored to allow them to expand or pop open, rather than explode.

    That was my thought as well. I don't know would a couple of those little silicon stick on dots work?
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    edited December 2017
    Ok I temporarily put faceplate on which raised to 3/16" clearance. Still close. Ill check the melt pt. of PVA foam and go from there.
    Fired it up on bench with CD player and this fixed the miniscule right channel hum that I would hear at half past volume. Will drop in small ones later tonight.
    How long to burn in the Big caps before they're at full maturity?
    qllczhzk8l3h.jpg

    Since I upgraded the main cap wires and the two negative speaker terminal wires going to these large caps, I used eyelet connectors with the same ID as the lug widths and bent at 90* then soldered with Cardas Quad. Made this much easier...

    lxspxswaen60.jpg







  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,796
    Ha, I thought you were mounting those with the terminals up. Since that is not the case you don't need to put anything between the caps and the lid.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    edited December 2017
    That's good. I didnt want to obscure the red-gold cap glow lol....

    qfdhtvibcl6e.jpg

    As a testament to the build quality of these units, I took a close pic of the heat sink. Unlike todays cheaper cast aluminum pieces, these are extruded alloy and precision machined using specialized hobbing equipment that would have been done exclusively for this single purpose...

    6l6t8svtsjx1.jpg


  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    Small caps done ...Can anyone point me in the right direction to get a couple of newer precision variable resistors?

    4hkw56oss9nc.jpg
    isu0ftaado6j.jpg




  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    edited December 2017
    I wanted to get another opinion or two before proceeding.... The service manual shows 10k for the VR's (R538, R638). I found a style of "Bourns" brand that has the same 5mm pin width as the a-8017 board.
    There are 2 styles....pins 1-2-3...pins 3-2-1
    Does it matter which one to install since two of the points are connected via trace on the factory PCB?

    Pics for reference only. I'll be getting the w-103 version.

    0t9ctgpl2imz.jpg
    kaqv87znl3y8.png
    ac731a49ahsc.png


  • delkaldelkal Posts: 89
    No one likes the cheap 25 cent pots that a lot of electronics use. But I read somewhere where where the precision resistors don't work as well for high current applications. Make sure you look at the amp specs of the precision resistor.

    Not sure if this is an internet legend or what role the pots play in your circuit. It could be total BS. Just throwing what I heard out there.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    Yes, the service manual calls for .25 Watt and that's what these Bourns are. The factory ones are so finicky. I'm concerned just moving the amp around will cause them to go out of calibration.
  • corticocortico Posts: 348
    edited December 2017
    xschop wrote: »
    Santa stopped by early with a Mouser package...

    snf3qjhrytcf.jpg

    These are excellent for filter caps, I used them a few time with great results
    iqrcw98qk54i.jpg
    gwhkhype1w9e.jpg

    Also, Elna Silmic II are pretty good, I used them pretty much anywhere else

    r77scblxmucb.jpg

    "If it measures good and sounds bad, -- it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad, -- you've measured the wrong thing." Daniel Von Recklinghausen
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    edited December 2017
    What model Marantz did you re-cap with those? The 10000uf KG's were exact ones I used in the Akai.... Same reason I went with them here....
    This Onkyo however, states it can take a 4 ohm load and it indeed does so with finesse and power, as it barely exercises it's sudoriferous glands at half throttle running the CRS+
    The VR trimmers arrived and will deal with the swap-out shortly. I ran a DMM across the bottom PCB traces at factory trimmer and found that left channel showed 3100 ohm and right was 3400 ohm after the bias was dialed in best as humanly possible.
    So I'll preset each one accordingly with DMM, solder in, then re-do idle current procedure.

    Oh....and whoever said the wire upgrade/addition would increase bass response... You were so right....along with the lower mids.

  • corticocortico Posts: 348
    edited December 2017
    It’s a 2270 from 1974, the original filters were 6800 or 9000uf can’t remember, I bumped it to 10000uf as AK fellows recommend me. I think I heard sound improving on both ends at the time.

    Other than that, replaced all electrolytic and tantalum caps, the original films were left alone. Also, the relay, obsolete diodes and transistors were updated with better replacements, this reduced unwanted noise to nothing.

    It was restored about 6 year ago, it will be good for another 40 years.

    Good job with your Onkyo! I find restoring old unit very rewarding.
    "If it measures good and sounds bad, -- it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad, -- you've measured the wrong thing." Daniel Von Recklinghausen
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    I will try the Silmic 2's when I go to recap the rare Scott receiver I have (and not mod it otherwise). Currently I cannot find a service manual for it anywhere.
    I commend your recent speaker restoration project while keeping the factory look. Nothing is ever "factory" when I'm done with it hehe.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,835
    Elna silmic II are great caps. One of the only 3 I use. The other two are Nichicon KG or FG
    Stay away from lower Elna's there are a few known to puke and the stuff inside is terribly corrosive.
    I KNOW from experience. It will seep down the electrodes and get into and eat the traces completely away.
    One of the Elna is Duorex II Sony ES stuff used them. I don't think they're made anymore but if you see them get them out pronto.
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,893
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Elna silmic II are great caps. One of the only 3 I use. The other two are Nichicon KG or FG
    Stay away from lower Elna's there are a few known to puke and the stuff inside is terribly corrosive.
    I KNOW from experience. It will seep down the electrodes and get into and eat the traces completely away.
    One of the Elna is Duorex II Sony ES stuff used them. I don't think they're made anymore but if you see them get them out pronto.

    The Cerafine are the lower end Elna Audio Caps.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,835
    edited December 2017
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Elna silmic II are great caps. One of the only 3 I use. The other two are Nichicon KG or FG
    Stay away from lower Elna's there are a few known to puke and the stuff inside is terribly corrosive.
    I KNOW from experience. It will seep down the electrodes and get into and eat the traces completely away.
    One of the Elna is Duorex II Sony ES stuff used them. I don't think they're made anymore but if you see them get them out pronto.

    The Cerafine are the lower end Elna Audio Caps.
    Yes and they are good caps. I never considered them to be lower end. I have always considered the silmics and cerafine their upper end
  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    edited January 4
    These "cermet" VRs were well worth the wait. I preset both at 3200 ohm and then soldered in. Had to turn each about 1/4 turn and both channels dialed in perfectly at 12mV....

    sbzyp8je3vc8.jpg

    Busted out die grinder and modded gold rca terminals to fit factory PCB mounts...very tedious, but happy with the sound. You can cheat by drilling the RCA center terminals pins to 0.110" dia. And they solder right in.
    These caps are indeed sounding better....

    v6xrz53lrmht.jpg

    cp1qmsrv809h.jpg
    xkbn8par57kq.jpg
    rh0ith44xfth.jpg


    Post edited by xschop on
  • machonemachone Posts: 873
    Looks good but you might want to deburr that edge!
    Mojo Audio Joule v5>>Quantum Byte w/JRiver 21 and Fidelizer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Marantz SA 8005>> Equinox 7>>
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  • xschopxschop Posts: 758
    edited January 5
    I did and used a black marker where the grinder went rogue. I went rogue in the last pic and just took the bridge out hehe.
    Does it matter if the hex/outer body of the new RCA contacts the metal case?
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