Another Cap question

2

Comments

  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,630
    TNTsTunes wrote: »

    Maybe you can send him one of your partial bottles to try it out???

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    There's a nice little chip in the center and a couple very small edge nicks that will nag at me if I don't remedy...
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    edited November 2017
    Will strong neodymium magnets attached to the sheet metal cover affect the transformer/power board or phono section?

    The face just had too many gouges upon closer inspection so I took it down to brushed alloy. I'm at the crossroads of the look and I would want to hide the side screws under brushed long panels and machine insets for magnets.... or replicate small factory face plate sides from aluminum and use the custom machined washers to match as seen here...
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    Also I traced down and jumpered off the power idicator LED for a string of detachable Red LEDs that light the interior nicely as well.....
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    Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

    Post edited by xschop on
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    I'm beginning to get the feeling that no one has set the precedent for magnetic attachment method. I'll refrain and side panel it another way to be safe from the unknown.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,666
    Yeah, I don't think you want magnets near the transformer.
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    Santa stopped by early with a Mouser package...

    snf3qjhrytcf.jpg
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    Big Caps installed. They will literally be about 1/8" from the top cover. Is that ok, or do I need to put an insulator between the two?
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    Also the only old cap that had a previous owner/tech's red mark on it was a 1500uf cap that tested right at 1500uf whereas the new nichicon tested at 1430uf....
    Replace or not since it is the only one that I could not get in FG series?

    z3f865vay80a.jpg


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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,666
    If it were me I'd definitely put something between the caps and lid.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    F1nut wrote: »
    If it were me I'd definitely put something between the caps and lid.

    Just to help keep from lid contact?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,666
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    If it were me I'd definitely put something between the caps and lid.

    Just to help keep from lid contact?

    Yes
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Be careful what you use. The tops of the caps are normally scored to allow them to expand or pop open, rather than explode.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    Be careful what you use. The tops of the caps are normally scored to allow them to expand or pop open, rather than explode.

    That was my thought as well. I don't know would a couple of those little silicon stick on dots work?
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    edited December 2017
    Ok I temporarily put faceplate on which raised to 3/16" clearance. Still close. Ill check the melt pt. of PVA foam and go from there.
    Fired it up on bench with CD player and this fixed the miniscule right channel hum that I would hear at half past volume. Will drop in small ones later tonight.
    How long to burn in the Big caps before they're at full maturity?
    qllczhzk8l3h.jpg

    Since I upgraded the main cap wires and the two negative speaker terminal wires going to these large caps, I used eyelet connectors with the same ID as the lug widths and bent at 90* then soldered with Cardas Quad. Made this much easier...

    lxspxswaen60.jpg







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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,666
    Ha, I thought you were mounting those with the terminals up. Since that is not the case you don't need to put anything between the caps and the lid.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    edited December 2017
    That's good. I didnt want to obscure the red-gold cap glow lol....

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    As a testament to the build quality of these units, I took a close pic of the heat sink. Unlike todays cheaper cast aluminum pieces, these are extruded alloy and precision machined using specialized hobbing equipment that would have been done exclusively for this single purpose...

    6l6t8svtsjx1.jpg


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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    Small caps done ...Can anyone point me in the right direction to get a couple of newer precision variable resistors?

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    edited December 2017
    I wanted to get another opinion or two before proceeding.... The service manual shows 10k for the VR's (R538, R638). I found a style of "Bourns" brand that has the same 5mm pin width as the a-8017 board.
    There are 2 styles....pins 1-2-3...pins 3-2-1
    Does it matter which one to install since two of the points are connected via trace on the factory PCB?

    Pics for reference only. I'll be getting the w-103 version.

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  • delkal
    delkal Posts: 764
    No one likes the cheap 25 cent pots that a lot of electronics use. But I read somewhere where where the precision resistors don't work as well for high current applications. Make sure you look at the amp specs of the precision resistor.

    Not sure if this is an internet legend or what role the pots play in your circuit. It could be total BS. Just throwing what I heard out there.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    Yes, the service manual calls for .25 Watt and that's what these Bourns are. The factory ones are so finicky. I'm concerned just moving the amp around will cause them to go out of calibration.
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  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited December 2017
    xschop wrote: »
    Santa stopped by early with a Mouser package...

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    These are excellent for filter caps, I used them a few time with great results
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    Also, Elna Silmic II are pretty good, I used them pretty much anywhere else

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    edited December 2017
    What model Marantz did you re-cap with those? The 10000uf KG's were exact ones I used in the Akai.... Same reason I went with them here....
    This Onkyo however, states it can take a 4 ohm load and it indeed does so with finesse and power, as it barely exercises it's sudoriferous glands at half throttle running the CRS+
    The VR trimmers arrived and will deal with the swap-out shortly. I ran a DMM across the bottom PCB traces at factory trimmer and found that left channel showed 3100 ohm and right was 3400 ohm after the bias was dialed in best as humanly possible.
    So I'll preset each one accordingly with DMM, solder in, then re-do idle current procedure.

    Oh....and whoever said the wire upgrade/addition would increase bass response... You were so right....along with the lower mids.

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  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited December 2017
    It’s a 2270 from 1974, the original filters were 6800 or 9000uf can’t remember, I bumped it to 10000uf as AK fellows recommend me. I think I heard sound improving on both ends at the time.

    Other than that, replaced all electrolytic and tantalum caps, the original films were left alone. Also, the relay, obsolete diodes and transistors were updated with better replacements, this reduced unwanted noise to nothing.

    It was restored about 6 year ago, it will be good for another 40 years.

    Good job with your Onkyo! I find restoring old unit very rewarding.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    I will try the Silmic 2's when I go to recap the rare Scott receiver I have (and not mod it otherwise). Currently I cannot find a service manual for it anywhere.
    I commend your recent speaker restoration project while keeping the factory look. Nothing is ever "factory" when I'm done with it hehe.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    Elna silmic II are great caps. One of the only 3 I use. The other two are Nichicon KG or FG
    Stay away from lower Elna's there are a few known to puke and the stuff inside is terribly corrosive.
    I KNOW from experience. It will seep down the electrodes and get into and eat the traces completely away.
    One of the Elna is Duorex II Sony ES stuff used them. I don't think they're made anymore but if you see them get them out pronto.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Elna silmic II are great caps. One of the only 3 I use. The other two are Nichicon KG or FG
    Stay away from lower Elna's there are a few known to puke and the stuff inside is terribly corrosive.
    I KNOW from experience. It will seep down the electrodes and get into and eat the traces completely away.
    One of the Elna is Duorex II Sony ES stuff used them. I don't think they're made anymore but if you see them get them out pronto.

    The Cerafine are the lower end Elna Audio Caps.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,420
    edited December 2017
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Elna silmic II are great caps. One of the only 3 I use. The other two are Nichicon KG or FG
    Stay away from lower Elna's there are a few known to puke and the stuff inside is terribly corrosive.
    I KNOW from experience. It will seep down the electrodes and get into and eat the traces completely away.
    One of the Elna is Duorex II Sony ES stuff used them. I don't think they're made anymore but if you see them get them out pronto.

    The Cerafine are the lower end Elna Audio Caps.
    Yes and they are good caps. I never considered them to be lower end. I have always considered the silmics and cerafine their upper end
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    edited January 2018
    These "cermet" VRs were well worth the wait. I preset both at 3200 ohm and then soldered in. Had to turn each about 1/4 turn and both channels dialed in perfectly at 12mV....

    sbzyp8je3vc8.jpg

    Busted out die grinder and modded gold rca terminals to fit factory PCB mounts...very tedious, but happy with the sound. You can cheat by drilling the RCA center terminals pins to 0.110" dia. And they solder right in.
    These caps are indeed sounding better....

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    Post edited by xschop on
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  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,469
    Looks good but you might want to deburr that edge!
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598
    edited January 2018
    I did and used a black marker where the grinder went rogue. I went rogue in the last pic and just took the bridge out hehe.
    Does it matter if the hex/outer body of the new RCA contacts the metal case?
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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,598

    Almost forgot about this thread. I started working on an Onkyo A-8190 back in May and placed a full order of Caps for that and all the resistors in the amp board to rebuild it. I also had a few more Cermet resistors ordered for this A-8017 and they showed fortunately.
    Finally done and assembled, I decided not to cut the sides of the faceplate to make room for side plates because my Onkyo C-7030 is the exact same width as this 435mm...
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