So just got a pair of 10b with original stands

And was wondering how I mount the speaker to the stand, common sense would tell me to run some screws through the 4 holes into the speaker. Buuuuut I really don't want to do that, and I read that you shouldn't put holes in the box when mounting them, so my question is, how then? I've searched, not in depth too much, but can't really find anything. Maybe I'm not wording it right, dunno.

Comments

  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,194
    I believe they are just meant to sit on it. I wouldn't drill holes into anything, if you must try some Velcro. That might mess with the coupling though, not sure.
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  • ken brydsonken brydson Posts: 6,498
    Something like blue tack would be fine if you don't want gravity to do its job.
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  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,060
    The earlier Polkstands had four large-ish, grippy rubber-like pads near the four corners of the stand that did a pretty good job of hangin' on to the loudspeaker when it was placed on the stand.

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    The 10B may have had that taller stand? If so, I have no idea about those, sorry :(
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  • delkaldelkal Posts: 60
    edited November 3
    I believe those are the proper stands. When I bought my 10Bs in 1988 I bought some cheaper aftermarket stands and they were higher. Used them for 30 years but I keep thinking I should cut them down

    Like others have said, I wouldn't screw anything down. When the original grippy pads wore out I found an assortment pack of clear silicone half "dots" with an adhesive back at Walmart. I put one on each corner of the stand and put the speaker on top. Nothing slides around and I am convincing myself they "isolate" the speaker so they have to sound better!

    Probably not............but they do work.
  • jimmylee123jimmylee123 Posts: 76
    edited November 3
    Well the issue is, I am having my first child soon and this system is out in my office. I work from home and will be spending a lot of time with Edison in my office as I work. So I would really like these to be secure, I see four holes on each corner where they sit, I'll attach a pic. Which I read you're supposed to attach with 5/8" screws, I believe it was. And sooooome how these were magically supposed to be mounted without putting holes in the box. Makes no sense to me.
  • cbkkcucl8jlb.jpg
    So here is the stand and you can obviously see the four mounting holes, but also remnants of a rubber pad, possibly, that used to be there.
  • pkquatpkquat Posts: 510
    There is some semi tacky black mat for the bottom of drawers or tool boxes. It is usually sold in a roll. I cut a pad and use it in my car to keep stuff from sliding off a smooth surface. It is very compressable and doesn't leave a residue or stick to things.

    You could tie strap them to the stand if original and kid resistant is the goal.

    The other option is to make your own simple short stand. The speakers would more or less be on the floor. The stand would just tip them up some. I have seen this done for similar sized speakers.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,806
    Those are metal. I thought original stands were wood?
  • delkaldelkal Posts: 60
    edited November 3
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Those are metal. I thought original stands were wood?

    I did too. Here is a dimension drawing I have of the original Polk 7 /10 stands (they are supposedly the same). It clearly shows a wood top.

    I don't remember where I found this (maybe here?) but anyway here it is.....

    r23jlxwqhc6b.jpg
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,768
    edited November 3
    I have those same stands. Home Depot or the Hardware Store. Thin, soft rubber discs, self-adhesive. put one on each corner. They're hair thin, but keep the speaker from sliding off.
    Could also cut and attach a piece of 3/4" or 1" aluminum angle across the back of the plate. Speaker won't slide back.
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  • smglbrthsmglbrth Posts: 1,016
    cbkkcucl8jlb.jpg
    So here is the stand and you can obviously see the four mounting holes, but also remnants of a rubber pad, possibly, that used to be there.

    Those are the exact same stands I had with my 7C's when I had them. They were original Polk and were screwed to the bottom of the speaker. I even had the instructions of how to mount it, per Polk at that time...
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,060
    Yeah, those look like the later (and taller, if memory serves) Polk stands.
    "Some amps run on self bias, some amps run on fixed bias. But his amps run on confirmation bias." -- seen on audioasylum

  • msgmsg Posts: 3,394
    Am I the only one wondering if it's too late to back out of the kid plan? It's the least invasive option.
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,060
    edited November 3
    No screws/screw-ing involved that way.

    You know, for the speaker stands, that is.
    "Some amps run on self bias, some amps run on fixed bias. But his amps run on confirmation bias." -- seen on audioasylum

  • dkfreebirddkfreebird Posts: 780
    There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.
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  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 8,595
    dkfreebird wrote: »
    There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.

    Hey Dennis. I see trees.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,806
    lightman1 wrote: »
    dkfreebird wrote: »
    There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.

    Hey Dennis. I see trees.

    Well that beats pink polka dotted elephants now doesn't it :p
  • jimmylee123jimmylee123 Posts: 76
    edited November 4
    msg wrote: »
    Am I the only one wondering if it's too late to back out of the kid plan? It's the least invasive option.

    4 weeks until D-day, too late to back out now.
  • I had a bunch of those sticky pads so I added them to the corners over the screw holes. They seem to be doing a better job, and it miiiiight actually even sound a little better. This will have to work for now, still clueless as to why add screw/bolt holes if you're not supposed to screw them down.
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,060
    edited November 4
    I had a bunch of those sticky pads so I added them to the corners over the screw holes. They seem to be doing a better job, and it miiiiight actually even sound a little better. This will have to work for now, still clueless as to why add screw/bolt holes if you're not supposed to screw them down.
    smglbrth wrote: »
    cbkkcucl8jlb.jpg
    So here is the stand and you can obviously see the four mounting holes, but also remnants of a rubber pad, possibly, that used to be there.

    Those are the exact same stands I had with my 7C's when I had them. They were original Polk and were screwed to the bottom of the speaker. I even had the instructions of how to mount it, per Polk at that time...
    dkfreebird wrote: »
    There are instruction for those that @dorokusai posted in 2004 on how to mount them.

    my work is done here

    ;)
    "Some amps run on self bias, some amps run on fixed bias. But his amps run on confirmation bias." -- seen on audioasylum

  • OleBootOleBoot Posts: 231
    Blu Tack.
    I started out with nothing and have most of it left.
  • delkaldelkal Posts: 60
    How high are the top of the stands compared with the older ones? Like I mentioned I have an aftermarket pair and have been wondering for years if I should cut them down,
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,060
    delkal wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Those are metal. I thought original stands were wood?

    I did too. Here is a dimension drawing I have of the original Polk 7 /10 stands (they are supposedly the same). It clearly shows a wood top.

    I don't remember where I found this (maybe here?) but anyway here it is.....

    r23jlxwqhc6b.jpg

    ^^ Those are the original stand dimensions -- originally used with the 7 and the 10.

    The later stands were taller -- but I don't know any dimensions, sorry.
    see: http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/129525/polk-monitor-7c-speakers-w-stands-milwaukee

    kzfx5ksfgkr1.png
    dnizreg8awmq.png


    lk4kz0cbhyjl.png
    (borrowed image, obviously)
    "Some amps run on self bias, some amps run on fixed bias. But his amps run on confirmation bias." -- seen on audioasylum

  • jimmylee123jimmylee123 Posts: 76
    edited November 6
    delkal wrote: »
    How high are the top of the stands compared with the older ones? Like I mentioned I have an aftermarket pair and have been wondering for years if I should cut them down,

    8 3/4" from the floor to the highest side of the metal plate. The metal plate might be 1/16" or so.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 714
    Interesting, this is what I have from subsequent purchases:
    uj5fhvv2ib36.jpg
    Note the 2 different heights...
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 982
    edited November 6
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Interesting, this is what I have from subsequent purchases:
    uj5fhvv2ib36.jpg
    Note the 2 different heights...

    If you are worried about the speakers sliding off just add a backstop to those stands like these have.

    o8lhh4pwt53n.jpg

    79yjbcrvqhhs.jpg

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  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 714
    Not worried... Just posted to show that there were several stand designs. The shorter set came with 10s, bought at the same time when new. Same with the taller set and 7s. Must have been a 2g design change?
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 15,060
    Continuous improvement was big in the halcyon days of consumer hifi :)
    "Some amps run on self bias, some amps run on fixed bias. But his amps run on confirmation bias." -- seen on audioasylum

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