Repair or replace RTA12s

I have a pair of RTA12 that I've had since around 1979. Thought tweeter had blown. They're the top hat drivers, so I switched them, changed fuse, still only mids and bass, no tweetage. Replaced tweeter with new one from ebay. No tweetage. Question is whether to repair, by DHS Speaker Service, which I favor or buy a pair of Polk Audio LSiM 707. Equipment is Hafler 220 and 100 pre-amp, Rega Planar II w/ Orotofon blue and Yamaha CD-C600BL 5-Disc CD? Please share you views. I'm in Hawaii so cannot demo the LSiM 707s here.

Comments

  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 714
    Verify the poly switch is open before condemning the tweet.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,795
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Verify the poly switch is open before condemning the tweet.

    Silly boy he states he changed the fuse therefore there is no polyswitch >:) :p

    I'd also clean the fuse holder very well and verify that the wiring to the fuse block had not corroded so much that it can't pass a signal. It's been known to happen
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,194
    Repair is my vote.
    Living room

    Mains: SDA 2B Studio
    Lows: Velodyne CHT12
    Power: Marantz SR7000 Preouts to Yamaha AV34
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' Curved

    2 Channel/Bedroom

    *under construction*
    Polk TSI 200
    Power: Marantz PM235
    CDP: Technics SL-PD688
    TT: Pioneer PL510

    Noggin Rockin'

    Grado SR80e
    Harman Kardon CL
    Little dot 1+/GE JAN 5654w

    Closet of Dreams:

    Harman Kardon AVR130
    Yamaha HTR5590
    Paradigm Monitor 90
    Polk RTA11TL
    New Large Advents 25th Anniversary Edition
    Bravo V2/RCA Clear top Conn branded 12AU7

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 714
    edited October 26
    Missed that! My bad. That's what happens when you skim...

    But I'm with Cody, fix 'em
  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 680
    Fix them.
  • Easy RunninEasy Runnin Posts: 369
    edited October 27
    Blown resistor?
    HT- Samsung PN50B860/Integra DTR 30.3/Rt55 Fronts
    Rt35i Surrounds/Cs1000p Center/SVS BP1000 Sub
    2CH - B&K MC-101 pre/B&K EX-442 amp/NAD 2400 amp
    Polk SDA1C, Polk Monitor 7, New Large Advents and Polk RTA 8T
    BR - Yamaha CR800/Polk monitor 5
  • nbrowsernbrowser Posts: 6,863
    Fix em and DHS speaker service is awesome.
    Living room: Samsung UN55KU7000 4K UHD HDR 55 inch TV, Marantz CD6004, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon, Parasound zPhono, Mac Mini, Oppo BDP-93, XBox One S 2Tb, Kenwood DPX792BH car deck for radio purposes, Marantz SR5010 AVR, Parasound HCA-1200II, Front SDA 2 modded with Larrys Rings and RD0-194-1 tweeters, Rear Onkyo SKF-4800 Towers, Center CSiA6, BOOM Tannoy TS2.12 Sub, Audioquest Evergreen interconnects just about everywhere except from AVR to amp, MIT Terminator 4, MIT AVT3 speaker cables with extra terminals covered up Monitor 5 Jr+ in the wings for a center channel.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,795
    Blown resistor?

    Very well could be, but I think that would be very visible. OP take a picture and post it. We might be able to spot something.

  • pitdogg2 wrote: »

    Very well could be, but I think that would be very visible. OP take a picture and post it. We might be able to spot something.

    Will do this tomorrow. Thanks!
  • Well, I went over the mechanical issues one more time. Visually, nothing looked out of place, but I wasn't sure the solder had flowed on the tweeter hot lead. Resoldered tweeter wires with hot iron and good flow. Cleaned fuse and fuse holder with wire brush; sprayed with a dab of CRC. Resoldered fuse holder wires as they looked a bit corroded. Held breath, crossed fingers and plugged in. Put on second Traffic album. Kabaaam! Tweetage restored. Pays to go slowly and carefully. I think it was most likely the hot wire to the tweeter which was on but looked like a cold joint. Have to say, Dave at DHS was very helpful and, when I only have one tuition to pay, I may have him upgrade them with new caps and resistors. For now, it's 1979 all over again, baby! Thanks for all the responses. I truly appreciate them.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,795
    That's great to hear. I would of crimped gold plated faston to the wires instead of soldering to the tweeter. Just my personal preference.
    Great job tracking it down
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 2,015
    Good to hear you got them hummin' again. Stick around the forum a lot of good information is constantly flowing around here from some aok guys. Well at least some of us. o:)

    2.3TL, 3.1TL, SDA II, 7B, 7C, 7 series 2, 10B, 5JR+, 5JR, 5A, 4.5, RTA 11T X2, RTA 8T, LSI9, LSI7, RTI A7, RTI A3, CSI A4, CSI A6, F/XI A4, RTI4. That's all for now.
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    That's great to hear. I would of crimped gold plated faston to the wires instead of soldering to the tweeter. Just my personal preference.
    Great job tracking it down

    Would have been a good solution if I had the faston connectors, but did not think of it beforehand. Thanks.
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