sda srs 2.3 modifications

2

Comments

  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 496
    At least his hair was perfect, right? No word of pina coladas at Trader Vic's, though. :D
    Polk SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Silk Audio MS38SE Tube Amp
    Yamaha DSP A-1 AV Amp
    Panasonic TC-P65S2 Plasma TV
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,850
    Viking64 wrote: »
    At least his hair was perfect, right? No word of pina coladas at Trader Vic's, though. :D

    Hair is ALWAYS perfect....
    Hair metal guys envy him
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 496
    pitdogg2 wrote: »

    Hair is ALWAYS perfect....
    Hair metal guys envy him

    HAHAHA I know that feeling.

    5dal2qyzi1or.jpg
    Polk SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Silk Audio MS38SE Tube Amp
    Yamaha DSP A-1 AV Amp
    Panasonic TC-P65S2 Plasma TV
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,712
    I soldered over the polyswitch on the left and my what a difference. Its silly really - like mono to stereo almost !

    Can now definitely hear the sda effect too .. there is a marked difference in plugging it in and out that with the left treble lacking I really couldn't notice.
    I'm surprised that bypassing the polyswitch makes a difference in the SDA. The tweeters and polyswitch are not part of the SDA circuitry.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,154
    True, but without the tweeters working it sounds like mud.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • nbrowsernbrowser Posts: 6,889
    F1nut wrote: »
    My listening room is the living room and it's far from perfect.

    Same here...we all gotta compromise once in a while.
    Living room: Samsung UN55KU7000 4K UHD HDR 55 inch TV, Marantz CD6004, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon, Parasound zPhono, Mac Mini, Oppo BDP-93, XBox One S 2Tb, Kenwood DPX792BH car deck for radio purposes, Marantz SR5010 AVR, Parasound HCA-1200II, Front SDA 2 modded with Larrys Rings and RD0-194-1 tweeters, Rear Onkyo SKF-4800 Towers, Center CSiA6, BOOM Tannoy TS2.12 Sub, Audioquest Evergreen interconnects just about everywhere except from AVR to amp, MIT Terminator 4, MIT AVT3 speaker cables with extra terminals covered up Monitor 5 Jr+ in the wings for a center channel.
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 496
    edited October 12
    Oh, S**t. I am presently putting Black Hole 5 in my 2.3's and I just popped online to read the threads on here about where exactly to place it. Jesse wrote somewhere that he recommended putting Black Hole 5 in while the cabinets are open. I just thought it was helpful advice, but now I see that IT'S A TRAP! This substance will suck out my soul and drain my blood, won't it? >:)
    Polk SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Silk Audio MS38SE Tube Amp
    Yamaha DSP A-1 AV Amp
    Panasonic TC-P65S2 Plasma TV
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 8,608
    Viking64 wrote: »
    Oh, S**t. I am presently putting Black Hole 5 in my 2.3's and I just popped online to read the threads on here about where exactly to place it. Jesse wrote somewhere that he recommended putting Black Hole 5 in while the cabinets are open. I just thought it was helpful advice, but now I see that IT'S A TRAP! This substance will suck out my soul and drain my blood, won't it? >:)

    Run.....Run while you can....never look back.....
  • tonyp063tonyp063 Posts: 224
    ....The interior pics only show up black......a black like no other I have ever seen......

    So *that's* where all the unobtainium black paint went!
  • machonemachone Posts: 815
    Yep, but the pool table has got to stay - its never going to be a perfect listening room - but working for as good as a basement pool room can be. Sounds best when you step to the table to break, which I can live with. Hallway to the right of the right speaker I think may be doing as much damage as the table - thinking no solution to that. Other corners, kind of where. Lots of hard surfaces.

    Do you just get some foam and place around - corners (bass trap?) ? There is a fair bit of unwanted reverb and /or echo happening for sure. Any recommendations ?

    Check out "acoustic panel build" in diy mods and tweaks. I share my experience. It's a lot of work but worth the effort.
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  • Thanks Machone - I'm reading through that thread now - very informative.
  • need a bit of expert advice ... cap's arrived and I'm looking to solder them soon. Just laying things out, and one issue I see is the original 40uf cap ... I ordered two 20uf caps to replace the 40uf (bottom right on board), and now am wondering exactly how they are supposed to be connected. I've taken a basic picture of how I "think" they are supposed to go ... does this look correct ?

    Appreciated, as always - any tips or advice before I start appreciated too.

    ucrwag7dew1i.jpg
  • kde2rwolxhcr.jpg

    clearer pic
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,712
    edited October 27
    That'll work. Solder the twists, and solder the leads to the board.

    When I had to join a pair of big (91uF) caps, I used a crimp connector and some insulated copper wire to add some length to the leads so they'd reach the circuit board. I really like crimped, then soldered as a splicing method.

    A bit of hot-melt glue holds everything stable.

    PolkLF_FinishedSM.JPG
  • merci beaucoup !
  • gimpodgimpod Posts: 1,690
    need a bit of expert advice ... cap's arrived and I'm looking to solder them soon. Just laying things out, and one issue I see is the original 40uf cap ... I ordered two 20uf caps to replace the 40uf (bottom right on board), and now am wondering exactly how they are supposed to be connected. I've taken a basic picture of how I "think" they are supposed to go ... does this look correct ?

    Appreciated, as always - any tips or advice before I start appreciated too.

    ucrwag7dew1i.jpg

    Just a shameless plug Custom SDA Circuit Boards :blush: , look around and if you want a pair contact @westmassguy (David) at DSH Speaker Service.
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  • Might take you up on that Gimpod, as something went seriously wrong.

    Symptom is I have no tweeters.

    I think problem may be at R2 and C6.

    I thought when I took my old xo's apart, the c6 capacitor lead connected to the R2 resister and the other C6 lead connected to the board in the R2 box, just below where the R2 resister connects to the board.

    When I check Gimpods excellent parts placement web page, this seems to conflict with the above. But, if the C6 lead doesn't connect to the R2 lead, then I don't know where on the board to connect it - there are no solder marks on the back of the board that correspond to the parts placement web page.

    SRS 2.3 (non tl)

    I'll upload some pics - hoping someone can help
  • 7ennz9wett12.jpg
    gc1pa2m6xspq.jpg
    4ch191aj9t51.jpg

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,154
    edited October 27
    You've cracked the RESISTOR in the second picture and no doubt have broken the lead connection.

    There are pics all over this forum and the Internet in general showing the proper way to install/mount crossover components. I'm afraid you've made a royal mess of yours.

    Some tips for the future. Never stress a resistor lead and never bend it any closer than 1/4" from the body. Never twist the leads on caps or resistors, never! If you need to join two or more leads together do it with hook/loops. Needle nose pliers are your friend.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • lol, well they sure sound like I've made a royal mess of them ! Thanks for the tips.
  • 3rprbxs11938.png


    Took another run at it. Apart from the possible cracked resister pointed out by F1nut, I can't see where to connect jumper 4. My board doesn't have holes in these locations.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,850
    3rprbxs11938.png


    Took another run at it. Apart from the possible cracked resister pointed out by F1nut, I can't see where to connect jumper 4. My board doesn't have holes in these locations.

    You are using original boards correct? The board pictured is the newer larger board, I'm not sure but maybe it is different than the original factory boards.

    The new boards were designed by Tony aka gimpod.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,154
    I am sure. You can't use Gimpod's board as a template for the stock board as they are different.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,772
    Shoehorning Sonicaps on the original boards requires a lot of creativity. Tony's boards make it a lot easier:

    ruw79smim4u2.jpg

    o39x1oe1fwft.jpg

    52ra8ijdao59.jpg



    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
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    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
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    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver PM-600

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"

  • Shoehorning Sonicaps on the original boards requires a lot of creativity. Tony's boards make it a lot easier:

    ruw79smim4u2.jpg


    Yes, I am trying to shoehorn using the old boards - I'll contact westmassguy to order a set of these bigger boards.


    In the meantime - because I'm actually having some fun with all of this ... and still have some solder left ... and need some speakers while the new boards come ...

    Am I correct in assuming on the above board the resisters have been moved to the back of the board, to make more room for the sonicaps ?

    Still stuck on the correct wiring for the C6 R2 area. Not sure if this is a valid test, but I tried connecting just the tweeter array - and can confirm absolutely no sound coming out. Could be the 6.2 resister leads has been broken (however it feels solid).

    Also, I've wired the other crossover the same way, and also no tweeters, so unless I've cracked both 6.2 resisters (possible), I think at least part of the problem is likely to be in incorrect wiring.

  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,712
    edited October 28
    Don't disassemble both boards. Disassemble one, use the other as a guide. When the first rebuilt board is confirmed to work...disassemble the second.




    Did you re-use, replace, or bridge the polyswitch? The resistor(s) can be tested with an ohmmeter. Solder connected (sticking) to the board nicely?
  • Schurkey wrote: »
    Don't disassemble both boards. Disassemble one, use the other as a guide. When the first rebuilt board is confirmed to work...disassemble the second.


    Did you re-use, replace, or bridge the polyswitch? The resistor(s) can be tested with an ohmmeter. Solder connected (sticking) to the board nicely?


    One at a time is good advice !

    I'll find a ohmmeter and check the resister.

    I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap. Unfortunately some other 2.3 xo threads have dead links to the pic's that I think may have been helpful.

    I did see this pic using the original boards (these are not mine) which seems to show the wiring for the 6.2 resister sitting on top of the 12uf cap. Just not sure where the 12 uf cap leads would then plug into the board .. thinking likely the resister 2 location .. ??

    c4dybcmmhsqg.jpg

  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,712
    I bridged the polyswitch, but left the two other small brown resisters (750pf ?) resister in place - I've read on other threads this can/should be bridged as well - one recommended bridge with a .1uf cap.
    If it's labeled in pF, it's not a resistor, it's a capacitor. If it's the 750pF silver-mica bypass cap for the 12uF mylar capacitor, it can be removed entirely as it is supposedly no longer needed with the higher-quality caps used to rebuild the board.
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,772
    edited October 28
    750pf are NOT resistors, they're Silver Mica shunt caps. They should be removed. Do not jumper them, just remove them.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-350, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver PM-600

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
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