Keep blowing tweeters in 12B
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CH46E
Posts: 3,549
Any idea why the same speaker keeps losing tweeters? Could a bad cap or resistor be the cause? When i got them the peerless were already blown. I put sl2000 in and lost one of them. Now i just lost a sl1000. They are pushed by my Parasound 2250. I run them hard every once in awhile but not to the point I would expect to be losing drivers.
So now im playing the SRS 2 in place until i get the 12B back up. Maybe i should do the x overs before i put any more tweeters in????
So now im playing the SRS 2 in place until i get the 12B back up. Maybe i should do the x overs before i put any more tweeters in????
Comments
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For starters the SL1000 and SL2000 are not compatible with those speakers, but I kind of doubt that's the cause of the failures.
Exactly where is the volume control level when you're running them hard?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Sure. Kinda unusual, but not impossible. A shorted cap would pass bass to the tweeter.Any idea why the same speaker keeps losing tweeters? Could a bad cap or resistor be the cause?
Wisdom. Even if the crossover isn't the problem, it's still got ancient capacitors in it that are degrading the signal.Maybe i should do the x overs before i put any more tweeters in????
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Isn't there a fuse protecting the tweeters?
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What is your source. Sounds like the amp is clippin to blow tweets?Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
For starters the SL1000 and SL2000 are not compatible with those speakers, but I kind of doubt that's the cause of the failures.
Exactly where is the volume control level when you're running them hard?
I believe the crossovers are the same for all tweeter versions of the 12Bs actually.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
For starters the SL1000 and SL2000 are not compatible with those speakers, but I kind of doubt that's the cause of the failures.
Exactly where is the volume control level when you're running them hard?
I believe the crossovers are the same for all tweeter versions of the 12Bs actually.
One would have to check the schematics to be certain as there is a revised rta12b as well -
I decided to go take a look at the fuse. I forgot it was there. I had to use a magnifying glass to see the tiny break in the fuse. But is was there. Small and not burn marks that you ussually look for.
Thanks for mentioning the fuse. I will replace it tomorrow. -
Fuses are best checked for continuity with a DMM (or VOM or VTVM, or what have you) rather than visually.
I learned that the good ol' fashioned way -- from bitter experience
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If I remember correctly the c/o's for the 12b's are all the same. I believe the only difference on the revised schematic was a tweeter change.
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Looking at the schematic i think it was only a fuse that was changed from the oem to the revised. Its the fuse right before the 750pf silver micas. In the rev. Schematic i dont reconize the icon that replaced the fuse.
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That would be the polyswitch. Basically a self resetting fuse.
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If I remember correctly the c/o's for the 12b's are all the same. I believe the only difference on the revised schematic was a tweeter change.
I dont think i have ever seen a 12B with anythung other (oem anyways) than the Peerless. Which is part of my delima. Do i wait untill i find some old Peerless (and who knows if they have been abused or not) or doni just go with some 194 or 198. Maybe i shoild call Polk and see if i do go with a 194 or 8 if they recommend any value changes to the xovers. -
Midwest sells an exact replacement Peerless.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Midwest sells an exact replacement Peerless.
Oh man, thats right. I completely forgor ypu told me about that! Again, thanks! -
I bypassed the fuse with a jumper because i dont have the right replacment. Just wanted to see if the tweeter would work. It does. So i will order some more fuses.
BUT..... now i have lost a sub amp. I noticed as soon as i started listening at an elevated level i notices the bass was boomy and sloppy. I checked the driver with ohms and its ok. The plate amp in the closet powers on and should have been warm but the heatsink is cold.
Ill just leave both subs off for now. Good thing the SRS 2's dont need a sub.
If its not one thing, its another! Eerrrg -
Midwest sells an exact replacement Peerless.
I was looking at the midwest replacment. When you say "exact replacement" do you mean in physical size and appearance? Or you mean it should have at least close to the same specs as the Peerless? So much so i should use them instead of going to a 194? Physically besides the hole in the middle of the driver they look very similar. I can see it would bolt right in.
Thanks again F1. -
The replacements are the same size as the original Peerless and SL1000. Other forum members have had positive things to say about their sound.
Original Peerless in decent condition pop up on eBay and usually for less money.
The RD-0194s are a slightly different size. Some minor cabinet modification would be needed.
My two cents - hunt for the original Peerless.
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My two cents - hunt for the original Peerless.
I agree. And consider the c/o overhaul. You won't be disappointed. -
I went for the RD-0194's for my 12C's and couldn't be happier. The replaced SL1000's which were what they came with from Polk."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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the peerless are decent Tweeters..the RDO Tweeters are special to me & I have had my ears on the RDO-194's and the RDO 198's.
if it wasn't for Skip and those dang Ushers Diamond Tweeters I probably like them still
2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge
HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
