replacement nuts for Polk 5jr+ binding posts


I am looking for replacement nuts, (metal or plastic, preferably metal) for my wonderful Polk 5jr+ speakers.

I spent hours at my Lowe's, over two nights looking for a replacement nut that would fit, but to no avail.

I have read (THANK YOU!) about the RD-194 and RD-198 tweeter upgrade, with the 13.5 up CAP replacement for the RD-198, but they sound pretty darn good the way they are, and I own some really good speakers to compare them to!

I am going to do the gluing of the magnets on the woofer this weekend.

These speakers have been very good to me for, what, 35+ years?

I would not mind buying replacement binding posts at Parts-express, and just take the nuts off of them.

I could use banana plugs, and I already have some, but I prefer as few breaks in the wire as possible.

Thanks in advance!


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,325
    If you're talking about binding posts the stock ones are junk, but if that is what you after look on eBay.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 6,579
    edited June 9
    If you're going to buy new binding post just put them in and use them. Chances are very good that the nuts off the new will not fit the old binding post. The old were not all that good to begin with. What was considered good 35yrs ago is not even close today.
  • BuddTXBuddTX Posts: 11
    Thank you both!
    Here is where I need some help.

    How do you undo the crossover to get to the binding posts, does it just "un-fold" after I take out the screws?

    Does anyone sell re-built, upgraded, crossovers? Including Polk?

    I just called parts, they are closed now, will try again Monday.
  • dkfreebirddkfreebird Posts: 666
    Are you in Tx?
  • BuddTXBuddTX Posts: 11
    Yes, Houston, Pearland actually
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 6,579
    You can recap them yourself if you're handy and can solder. You could also pm westmassguy his business is just that rebuilding speakers. Polk will not have anything but drivers.

    Take the binding post cup out it should be pretty much self explanatory after that. You can pull the hot melt glue off with needle nose pliers or i belive 91% alcohol will soften and loosen it up some as well. You will need to apply it back to seal it all back up
  • BuddTXBuddTX Posts: 11
    ok, thank you!
  • dkfreebirddkfreebird Posts: 666
    If you're not ready for upgrades what colors do you need to get you going. I have some here that can help you I think.
  • BuddTXBuddTX Posts: 11
    Thanks DkFreeBird,

    I did contact WestMassGuy, so let me hold off on the replacement nuts, I may just upgrade the crossover.

    So, my last question, if I upgrade the tweeter, and the crossover, is there a woofer upgrade I should consider for the5jr+?

    Then I would have a completely new speaker, in an old cabinet!

    Thanks everyone!
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,325
    No, you have the best driver already.
  • dkfreebirddkfreebird Posts: 666
    Great decision, Dave did all my crossover upgrades and you won't be disappointed.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 516
    The factory posts I just measured are 8-32 thread, of a stainless that is slightly ferrous, although I haven't seen one oxidize.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,325
    xschop wrote: »
    The factory posts I just measured are 8-32 thread, of a stainless that is slightly ferrous, although I haven't seen one oxidize.

    They are nickel plated brass.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 516
    The 4 sets I kept from the 5jrs I modded are stainless as I ran a large magnet across and filed a couple with no yellow shine.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,325
    Hmmmm.....I just can't imagine Polk using stainless steel anything that long ago.
  • K_MK_M Posts: 787
    How many nuts do you need?

    Pretty sure we have some Spare ones we could send ya free of charge.
    Just Pm me with your answer and address if you want some.
  • BuddTXBuddTX Posts: 11
    Thank you everyone, I have contacted WestMassGuy (David) and he is rebuilding my crossovers. I opted for the premium crossovers, so I am getting the Unobtainium Caps, with Kryptonite connectors, made in deep space so that gravity will not affect the build, made by virgin nymphs, at midnight Zulu time, only on the vernal equinox, and only selecting "prime" numbered capacitors. :)

    BUT NO MONSTER Cable, that stuff is pure Snake Oil!!! B)

    Seriously, as part of the re-build, he is, of course, replacing the binding posts, so there is no more need for replacement nuts.

    I also ordered the RD0198-1 tweeters, and of course, David knows about that, so the crossovers will be built for those tweeters.

    Oh, I just got the tweeters in the mail today, and one of the connector posts was broken, I will have to make a call to Polk Monday!

    Thanks to everyone's posts, and lots of reading, I have since learned:
    -Mortite is not preferred to use as a replacement gasket
    -David sent me instructions on installing hurricane nuts and bolts to replace all the MDF screwholes, that should allow me to be able to get a good tight seal (not too tight), and tighten zig zag pattern, like tightening a snare drum head or lug nuts on a tire)
    -Use Dynamat or equivalent, (Fatmat, Noico, uxcell, etc) and do not use Peel and Seal, P&S may work, but it is asphalt based, whereas the other ones are butyl based sound deadeners.
    -Glue the magnets on the MW6502. I am going to use JB Weld, I love that stuff, I fixed my Washing Machine, and it held until I bought a new one, 15+ years later!

    Any other suggestions?

    Thanks everyone!
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,325
    Now, you're on the right path.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 6,579
    Stepping off the edge love it :p
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