Trying to find a tv stand that works with the 706c

mva5580mva5580 Posts: 70
Not the easiest thing in the world because of how massive this thing is, I know.

I currently have a stand that has a shelf tall enough where the 706c fits, but I just feel it's lower than it should be. The main thing I'm trying to do is get that center speaker higher up and it just seems like a challenge to find a stand that is tall enough to have a top shelf that the 706c can fit and have the top of the shelf be for the TV.

I'm not completely against getting some sort of tv stand where the center speaker would be on the top and then I'd use some kind of attachable TV mount to the stand, but a separate shelf for the speaker with the TV on top is my preference. As for the budget question....let's say $1,000 or less for now.

Anyway if anyone has any insights on a stand that may work for me or any other ideas, I'd appreciate it.

Comments

  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 827
    Build one your self.. It's not hard just get decent wood. Building it your self means you can make all the niches the size you want.

    If your close to San Diego I can build one for you
  • mva5580mva5580 Posts: 70
    Yeah I actually was considering the build-it-yourself option. While I live "close" to San Diego, I don't live CLOSE to San Diego. =) Phoenix. Thanks though!
  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 1,773
    edited May 30
    A Salamander Synergy rack would work, but the 706C would still need to sit on top of the rack. That means wall mounting a TV to give enough clearance above the top of the speaker. Although Salamander does make an add on post mount system for big screen TVs, the 706C is still too big to fit underneath the TV when mounted on the posts. I have both a 704C and 706C and switched back to the 704C because it is easier to fit into a system. Wall mounting the TV is not an option for me where the system is located. I don't feel I gave up much in performance with the little brother.

    In my opinion, the 706C works best in a large home theater system with a projector and big screen with the speaker sitting on its own center speaker stand in front of the screen.
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 129
    Salamander also offers an optional riser for their synergy stands that can be custom ordered to a height of 15 inches if I remember correctly.
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 1,950
    IMO, the center sound better higher up and really helps anchor the voices to the screen. Plus, it helps with the horizontal alignment of the LCR. So, just mount the TV to the wall and put the center on top of the stand. As large as the 706 is, I was able to site it on top and still keep my 70" at a nice not too high height.

    Now, your choices are less limited and you can use your present stand or just about any other that suits you....Salamander, BDI, Bell'O, etc...

    If just you have to have one that will accommodate the center, here are some:
    https://www.furnitech.com/
    https://www.standoutdesigns.com/ (Expensive!)
  • mva5580mva5580 Posts: 70
    Yeah I've actually been leaning towards the Salamander 339, which would put the 706c about 21" off the ground which is about a 7-8" improvement from what I have right now, so I think that would be a quality improvement. Plus it would still allow me to have the TV on the stand itself and not mounted anywhere.

    The only problem is I seem to be seeing conflicting information about the speaker stand portion. On the salamander site itself it claims that the center speaker compartment is 7.5" high, which would be no good for the 706c. But if I Google this stand and look for 3rd party sellers, every other site I see shows it to be 9" which I believe would be enough for the 706c.

    Salamander site:
    http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/products/details/5731a720-27fc-3af0-7577-5125e37df4da

    3rd party site:
    http://www.thesimpletvstandstore.com/p-6040-salamander-designs-synergy-triple-339-30-series-6575-wide-30-tall-3-adjustable-shelves-3-20-doors.aspx

    I'd obviously need to find out which one is accurate before I move forward. I do really like the look of it though and if it would fit the speaker and all my other components, I think that would be the one. My other thought/concern is whether or not components are prone to overheating in a stand like that.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 827
    edited May 30
    mva5580 wrote: »
    Yeah I actually was considering the build-it-yourself option. While I live "close" to San Diego, I don't live CLOSE to San Diego. =) Phoenix. Thanks though!

    Phoenix is not that far ... but you would need a truck of SUV to bring it back. Send me the specs of what you want and I will build it labor free. I just like woodworking :smiley: Also depends on the type of wood you want for the total cost.

    Finding a stand for my old CSi5 was hard. I looked at different stores and even contacted a local cabinet maker. Once I saw the $$$$ coming at me I decided to make my own. I did have some woodworking experience from HS 30 years ago. I borrowed my dad's cheap portable table saw and put my framing skill saw to work and built this. My big mistake on this one, I went to Lowes for wood....oops total cost was right around $300.. errr to top it off my skills were not good enough to make it to fit both my CSi5 and space on the floor.

    bj0tvect5dxo.jpg

    My wife liked it and my woodworking started to go. I built shoe racks, blanket chest custom shelving and improved my skills. I slowly built up my tool inventory to a Delta contractor saw. 3 routers with a full router table. tons of clamps I have found what to buy and what not to buy from Harbor Frieght. Found real lumber stores too. So after a couple of years of building my skills I went for the stand again.

    dht53rmai6b4.jpg

    This one is all Baltic Birch plywood. I rounded over the edges to get rid of the need for edging. total cost on this one was less than $200. That includes knobs and drawer slides.

    If you don't have access to the tools needed. Contact your local jr college or high school and see if they have wood shops. The might build if for you for material and a little labor.



  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 1,773
    mva5580 wrote: »
    I'd obviously need to find out which one is accurate before I move forward. I do really like the look of it though and if it would fit the speaker and all my other components, I think that would be the one. My other thought/concern is whether or not components are prone to overheating in a stand like that.

    I would recommend going to visit a dealer on the Salamander gear. Reliable sellers don't really discount their product unless it's B-Stock. I recall Magnolia sections in Best Buy stores may be authorized dealers. There are lots of options.An option is to go with a 237 model and also get a riser unit, which is the tubing and another top shelf. A dealer would be able to tell you what size riser poles are available now. The 706C is every bit of its 9" height. With the rubber bumper feet it is a shade over. I would suggest 10" clearance so you would have room to elevate the speaker so it points to your ears.

    Also, the 706C is unusually wide. You would not be able to fit standard sized AV components on either side of it, even with the triple width Salamander units. I found that out by experience.

    You would also not want the center of your TV to be too high. The center of the screen should be about the height of the tweeters on the main speakers, although there is wiggle room there.

    If you get the doors with perforated screens and do not put the rear panels on the cabinets heat build up is not an issue as long as there is a couple of inches above a heat producing receiver, amp, or cable box.

  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 129
    The conflicting info about the shelf height is because there is a crossbeam that takes up some of the interior height. If you look at the assembly manual if shows a better view. This is why I suggested the custom riser option they offer. If you go to Salamander's site they have an App where you can design your own and it estimates the cost.
  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 1,773
    edited May 30
    sgmsmg wrote: »
    The conflicting info about the shelf height is because there is a crossbeam that takes up some of the interior height. If you look at the assembly manual if shows a better view. This is why I suggested the custom riser option they offer. If you go to Salamander's site they have an App where you can design your own and it estimates the cost.

    Right on that. I had to slide my 706C in from the side, not the front. The main problem I had was clearance on the sides for components. The 704C clears fine and gives me enough room to point it upwards a bit

    I got one of the Triple 10 units with a 9" riser shelf more than ten years ago from Audio Advisor and have dismantled it and reassembled it multiple times and it still looks like new:

    http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SMKSL10&opt=3025|3027

    Another piece of advice I have is to spend the money now on a stand that will last a long time. Possibly get a stand that is bigger than you think you need now and can be reconfigured later. Salamander fits that bill. I wasted large amounts of money over the years buying stands that were convenient at the time but were not built to last, had resonating glass shelves, had finishes that scuffed easily, etc.
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 129
    Emlyn wrote: »
    Another piece of advice I have is to spend the money now on a stand that will last a long time. Possibly get a stand that is bigger than you think you need now and can be reconfigured later. Salamander fits that bill. I wasted large amounts of money over the years buying stands that were convenient at the time but were not built to last, had resonating glass shelves, had finishes that scuffed easily, etc.

    Ain't that the truth. I have a $2k BDI stand that won't accommodate my 706C. For now I have the 706C on stands in front until I commit to getting a Salamander with the custom riser.
  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 1,773
    Here's a link to where they say they will custom cut the riser poles to desired length on request:

    http://www.salamanderdesigns.com/products/details/3fbee4dc-563f-7966-7d7a-5125e3a73307


  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 6,841
    Salamander is the bees knees.
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 60
    Have a look at Bell'O. I have a 3 shelf open glass TV stand from years ago. The max TV size is 75" and it fit both a Polk CS400 and a Martin Logan Motion 50XT on the top shelf just fine and those two dwarf the LSiC I have there now.
  • mva5580mva5580 Posts: 70
    Thank you very much for all the input, I appreciate it.

    I do like the Salamander and I would be completely fine with getting it with the extended riser, the only thing is I guess I just tend to be a bit annoyed at how much more expensive it is to get the extended riser in the exact same configuration as the 237 but just a "custom" build.

    The original 237 is $1800, but if you do the custom configuration with the EXACT same dimensions other than the few extra inches on the riser, it's an extra $500+ dollars. I guess at the end of the day I'm just not sure those extra few inches are "worth" that much of an extra cost to me and that's a decision I'll just have to make.

    If I could get that 237 with a center gap that fit the 706 for right around that 1800'ish, I'd buy it. But ~$2400.....eh. I'm just not liking it.
  • sgmsmgsgmsmg Posts: 129
    mva5580 wrote: »
    Thank you very much for all the input, I appreciate it.

    I do like the Salamander and I would be completely fine with getting it with the extended riser, the only thing is I guess I just tend to be a bit annoyed at how much more expensive it is to get the extended riser in the exact same configuration as the 237 but just a "custom" build.

    The original 237 is $1800, but if you do the custom configuration with the EXACT same dimensions other than the few extra inches on the riser, it's an extra $500+ dollars. I guess at the end of the day I'm just not sure those extra few inches are "worth" that much of an extra cost to me and that's a decision I'll just have to make.

    If I could get that 237 with a center gap that fit the 706 for right around that 1800'ish, I'd buy it. But ~$2400.....eh. I'm just not liking it.

    I am in the same boat. Holding out to see if a used one turns up on Craigslist at some point. I have to get black and of course all the ones that show up for sale are cherry or walnut.
  • mva5580mva5580 Posts: 70
    sgmsmg wrote: »
    mva5580 wrote: »
    Thank you very much for all the input, I appreciate it.

    I do like the Salamander and I would be completely fine with getting it with the extended riser, the only thing is I guess I just tend to be a bit annoyed at how much more expensive it is to get the extended riser in the exact same configuration as the 237 but just a "custom" build.

    The original 237 is $1800, but if you do the custom configuration with the EXACT same dimensions other than the few extra inches on the riser, it's an extra $500+ dollars. I guess at the end of the day I'm just not sure those extra few inches are "worth" that much of an extra cost to me and that's a decision I'll just have to make.

    If I could get that 237 with a center gap that fit the 706 for right around that 1800'ish, I'd buy it. But ~$2400.....eh. I'm just not liking it.

    I am in the same boat. Holding out to see if a used one turns up on Craigslist at some point. I have to get black and of course all the ones that show up for sale are cherry or walnut.

    Funny that you say that.....this is on my local Craigslist:

    https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/fuo/6136546116.html
  • mpitogompitogo Posts: 60
    edited May 30
    Man my TV stand is so old, the product description mentions Plasma TV stand...and yes I bought it when I had a Plasma TV. http://www.webmall2000.net/home/4260.asp

    pvs-4260b.jpg

    And this is what it looks like now. LSiC is about half the size of the Motion 50XT it replaced. And the 75" 4K TV is much thinner and lighter than my first flatscreen plasma 720p.

    hczlpqlc3w2k.jpg
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 827
    mva5580 wrote: »
    Thank you very much for all the input, I appreciate it.

    I do like the Salamander and I would be completely fine with getting it with the extended riser, the only thing is I guess I just tend to be a bit annoyed at how much more expensive it is to get the extended riser in the exact same configuration as the 237 but just a "custom" build.

    The original 237 is $1800, but if you do the custom configuration with the EXACT same dimensions other than the few extra inches on the riser, it's an extra $500+ dollars. I guess at the end of the day I'm just not sure those extra few inches are "worth" that much of an extra cost to me and that's a decision I'll just have to make.

    If I could get that 237 with a center gap that fit the 706 for right around that 1800'ish, I'd buy it. But ~$2400.....eh. I'm just not liking it.

    Thats a lot of cash for a TV stand

    I would get out a pencil and paper and do a mockup of what you think the stand should be. Take those to a cabinet maker and see what they say. I was quoted $1,400 to build basicly the stand I have today.

  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 6,841
    mva5580 wrote: »
    Funny that you say that.....this is on my local Craigslist:

    https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/fuo/6136546116.html

    I would be all over that.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 827
    edited May 31
    There are a couple of pine and main woodworkers in your area. Doesn't hurt to look one up and ask http://pineandmain.org/find-a-local-shop/
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 1,950
    mva5580 wrote: »
    Funny that you say that.....this is on my local Craigslist: https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/fuo/6136546116.html
    Here this....run don't walk and pick that up. Do it now!

    As far as heat...the Salamanders are one of the better out there in terms on this. They even have a fan back attachment available or one can add their own if needed. If member DarqueKnight can use one with his powerhouse Pass Labs Supersystem, then most mere mortal systems would be more than fine.
    http://s148.photobucket.com/user/darqueknight88/media/x600-5/X6005sInstalled-s_zps5146a626.jpg.html
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/147243/the-last-amplifier-project-pass-labs-x600-5-monoblocks/p2




    For the record, Here is another custom rack company: https://audiovaultusa.com/




  • footwedgefootwedge Posts: 474
    The best and least expensive way to get a rack is to draw up a sketch of what you want and get with a local cabinet maker. I would also suggest making it 3-4" deeper for routing cables.

    One very important thing, make sure you add casters. I had one built and he talked me out of the casters which was a big mistake on my part. Never new I would have the need to move this heavy sob so many times. Let me rephrase, never new I would need to unload this heavy sob just so I could move it.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 827
    I agree with footwedge,

    building or having a custom one built will be a higher quality IF the correct wood is used.

    Mine took 2 5X5 sheets of 3/4" Baltic Birch 1/2 sheet of 1/2" BB and 3/4 sheet of 1/4" BB.. thing weighs over 150lb. It can hold more weight than I can put on it.
  • dolbyddolbyd Posts: 36
    I plan to wall-mount my TV once the DLP dies. Then I will move the center to the top of my stand. I have looked at BDI and salamander but I am liking the idea building it now. Very cool.
  • Kurt300Kurt300 Posts: 204
    It doesn't have to go on the TV stand. I have two 706c's - one high on a custom wall shelf and the other low on two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007P85JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Also used Auralex isolation MoPads. Feeding split receiver center line-level outs to two separate power amp channels, then to the dual centers gives me a perceived source from the middle of my screen and ultra-clear dialogue from all movies.
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