Hearing is believing!!!

13

Comments

  • Yep2Yep2 Posts: 756
    Hehe.
  • CoolJazzCoolJazz Posts: 496
    Yep2 wrote: »
    Ive soldered 0 gauge power cable connectors (car audio) my whole life...
    Not easy to "crimp"!

    Of course you can. And it'd be a better connection if you did. Crimping properly is always better than doing a paste job with solder.

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."
  • Yep2Yep2 Posts: 756
    CoolJazz wrote: »
    Yep2 wrote: »
    Ive soldered 0 gauge power cable connectors (car audio) my whole life...
    Not easy to "crimp"!

    Of course you can. And it'd be a better connection if you did. Crimping properly is always better than doing a paste job with solder.

    CJ

    15 years experiece here.
    Your call.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,510
    Golds only attribute is it doesn't tarnish. Silver does but still has all the electrical conductivity BUT it is soft and wears away easily. That is one of the reasons they flash silver with rhodium which is very hard and as you can see doesn't even make the chart.
  • Joey_VJoey_V Posts: 5,712
    Same thing happened to me about a year ago.

    Nonbeliever turned into believer.
    Joey's Gear:
    Current Gear:
    Emm Labs DAC2x and TSDX Transport -> Cary SLP-05 preamp -> Boulder 2060 stereo amp (w/ Audioquest WEL Signature B) ) -> new speakers -> :D
    Rotel RA1592 Super Integrated -> Sonus Faber Olympica 3 -> :o
    Rotel RC1570 preamp -> Rotel RB1582 amp -> B&W PM1 -> o:)

    Old Gear:
    Speakers: Rockport Aviors (5/5), Sonus Faber Stradivari (5/5), BW 802D2 (4.5/5), Martin Logan Summits (4.25/5), Martin Logan Vantage (4/5), Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor (3.75/5), AV123 Strata Mini (3.5/5), ML Mosaic (3.25/5), Onix Ref1 (3/5), Sonus Faber Concerto (2.75/5), SF Concertino (2.5/5), Axiom M22ti (2/5), Polk LSi9 (3/5), LSi7 (2.9/5)
    Source: Squeezebox 3 -> PS Audio Digital Link III -> Cary 306/200 CDP -> Cary 306 SACD -> EMM LABS DAC2X/TSDX
    Preamplification: Rotel RC1070 -> Rogue Perseus -> Cary SLP98 -> Cary SLP98F1 -> Cary SLP05 (sold and then repurchased)
    Amplification: HK AVR330 -> Rotel RB1070 -> Rotel RB1090 -> Plinius SA102 -> Cary 211FE -> Classe M600 -> Boulder 2060
    Subwoofer: Infinity Entra2 sub -> SVS 25-31PC+ sub
  • GatecrasherGatecrasher Posts: 1,596
    edited April 30
    I used to do a lot of soldering both professionally and as an amateur. I got my Ham radio license at age 13 back in the 70's and learned to solder building Heathkit components for my radio gear.

    After a graduated from high school I got a job with a company called Greenray Industries building electronic oscillators used by the military and some civilian applications. Some were used in the space shuttles and in cruise missiles. The circuit boards were all soldered in wave flux automated machines but we had to occasionally make some tweaks manually and as the final assembly, solder the housings together. The seal had to be perfect and the housings were leak-tested by submerging them in liquid fluorocarbon. If there was even the slightest pinhole you would see air bubbles. In other words you had to be good. No sloppy soldering would have been tolerated.

    We used various types of solder for different applications. Primarily SN60, SN96, and 420 silver solder using soldering irons and torches. The SN60 and SN96 were both rosin core but the 420 silver required acid flux.

    I still do a lot of soldering today with my pinball machine hobby and have multiple soldering stations and a de-soldering station too. It's kind of something I always took for granted but realize a lot of people (especially younger ones) have never soldered anything. Everything is "snap-together" and EZ coupled nowadays per say to remove as much of the skill required that us older dudes had to learn.

    That's why I asked the question about soldering stuff. I personally like to take the extra time to do it, but with audio cables I like the mechanical connection too with the solder as a final step. That way you have the best of both.
    POLK AUDIO SRT
    (Signature Reference Theater)

    2rqdrna.jpg s6k686.jpg 11rgneu.jpg
    SRT 10.2 SYSTEM
    (4) SRT Subs & Satellites
    (2) SRT Center Speakers
    (2) SRT Control Centers w/Remote
    (4) f/x1000 Surrounds
    (2) PSW650 Subs
    Pioneer Elite SC-09TX AVR
    Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD Blu-Ray
    Pioneer Elite BDP-33FD Blu-Ray (Region-Free)
    Custom HTPC w/Multi-Lane SATA Hot-Swapable Drive RAID Tower
  • CoolJazzCoolJazz Posts: 496
    Yep2 wrote: »
    CoolJazz wrote: »
    Yep2 wrote: »
    Ive soldered 0 gauge power cable connectors (car audio) my whole life...
    Not easy to "crimp"!

    Of course you can. And it'd be a better connection if you did. Crimping properly is always better than doing a paste job with solder.

    CJ

    15 years experiece here.
    Your call.
    40 years here. In a broad range of various high voltage and high current applications.

    CJ
    A so called science type proudly says... "I do realize that I would fool myself all the time, about listening conclusions and many other observations, if I did listen before buying. That’s why I don’t, I bought all of my current gear based on technical parameters alone, such as specs and measurements."
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 27,495
    Does the method really matter, crimping/soldering ? To me anyway the only thing that matters is the sound. Crimp it, solder it, encase it in concrete....how does it sound ?

    Over the years, I've seen many claim the solder deteriorates the sound....as they solder onto a connector plated in tin. I've seen some say the quality of the connector is most important.....as they crimp them on to the cheapest wire they can find. That's like putting 3g's worth of tires and rims on a 500 buck beater.

    I'm not saying none of it matters, but you have to start with a quality wire so quality connectors/solder compliment it. Otherwise your just trying to put spit shine on a t u r d. :)
    legacy Focus 20/20
    Butler tdb 2250
    Cary Xciter dac
    Joule LA-100
    Pioneer BDP 320
    Sony 4k 55 850c
    FX 500 surround
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    Pioneer elite vsx21
    Sonos-Cullen mod.
    Audio Metallurgy GA-0 digital
    PS Audio Quintet
    Analysis Plus crystal ovals
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2's IC
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 8,502
    And Tony knows his concrete. Believe you me.... ;)
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,323
    tonyb wrote: »
    To me anyway the only thing that matters is the sound. Crimp it, solder it, encase it in concrete... how does it sound?
    It screams for help until it's covered up?
  • voltzvoltz Posts: 4,636
    Crimping/Soldering? is so old school, Today we use set screws!
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 592
    Count me in to in hearing the big difference that MIT cabling makes. To me the increased amount of bass is the most notable and undeniable area of improvement. Enough so that it has made my 18'' sub unnecessary and my 1.2tl's actually sound better without it.
    modded polk 1.2tl's+dreadnaught, mcintosh c100, d100, mr7084, mvp831, bridged mc2500's+ mit cables
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,510
    I like to solder. I do it everywhere i can, that being said i also know there are many places where it just isn't needed. On patch cables i have done both but I've come to love the Canare crimp on RCA's. You must buy a special tool that will set you back some coin but boy are just nice. I once had problems with Cardas RCA's i called and chatted with them (nice folks there) and come to find out i was not getting the RCA near hot enough. I was too afraid i was going to melt the plastic insert that held the pin. The guy on they other end then said before you attemp to solder heat it up with propane torch and if course i thought he was joking but he wasn't things went much smoother after that.
  • GatecrasherGatecrasher Posts: 1,596
    So can anyone guess what the eventual use for these odd-looking four-sided components would be?

    The first one to guess the right answer really knows their sheet. lol

    So no one on here has a clue as to what these (unusual-looking for the time) 99.99% pure Russian gold-plated electrical connectors would eventually be used for? The year was 1980-81.

    This is a bit of electronic trivia.
    POLK AUDIO SRT
    (Signature Reference Theater)

    2rqdrna.jpg s6k686.jpg 11rgneu.jpg
    SRT 10.2 SYSTEM
    (4) SRT Subs & Satellites
    (2) SRT Center Speakers
    (2) SRT Control Centers w/Remote
    (4) f/x1000 Surrounds
    (2) PSW650 Subs
    Pioneer Elite SC-09TX AVR
    Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD Blu-Ray
    Pioneer Elite BDP-33FD Blu-Ray (Region-Free)
    Custom HTPC w/Multi-Lane SATA Hot-Swapable Drive RAID Tower
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,510
    So Russian Gold is better than U.S. Gold?
    I hear its all the same.....
  • GatecrasherGatecrasher Posts: 1,596
    edited April 30
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    So Russian Gold is better than U.S. Gold?
    I hear its all the same.....

    Actually it's an oxymoron. The term "Russian Gold" is an industry name for a gold alloy that consists of 75% gold and 25% copper (aka Rose gold). So why AMP inc. called it "99.99% pure Russian gold" was kind of stupefying. It's hard to understand how an alloy can be 99.99% pure but that's what they called it back then.

    But as for the the question posted... no one on here even has a clue to what this high-tech project was for?
    POLK AUDIO SRT
    (Signature Reference Theater)

    2rqdrna.jpg s6k686.jpg 11rgneu.jpg
    SRT 10.2 SYSTEM
    (4) SRT Subs & Satellites
    (2) SRT Center Speakers
    (2) SRT Control Centers w/Remote
    (4) f/x1000 Surrounds
    (2) PSW650 Subs
    Pioneer Elite SC-09TX AVR
    Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD Blu-Ray
    Pioneer Elite BDP-33FD Blu-Ray (Region-Free)
    Custom HTPC w/Multi-Lane SATA Hot-Swapable Drive RAID Tower
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 91
    edited April 30
    PinBall machines?
    IBM 360?
    how many guesses to I get?
    oh wait, the IBM PC?
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 3,346
    So can anyone guess what the eventual use for these odd-looking four-sided components would be?

    The first one to guess the right answer really knows their sheet. lol

    So no one on here has a clue as to what these (unusual-looking for the time) 99.99% pure Russian gold-plated electrical connectors would eventually be used for? The year was 1980-81.

    This is a bit of electronic trivia.

    VGER
    Parlor: Yamaha RX-A2030*Parasound Halo P5*Parasound Halo A-31*Parasound 2250v2*Emotiva XPA-200 Gen1*LSiM707 Fronts*LSiM706c Center*LSiM702f/x Surrounds*Monitor70 Series II Rears*Monitor40 Series II Presence*SVS PB2000 Sub X2*OPPO BDP-103D*Sony PS3*Samsung BD-H5900 3D Blu-Ray*Samsung-55" LED 1080p Smart 3D HDTV UN55H7150AFXZA*TEAC TN-300*Wireworld Solstice cables*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*

    Dungeon: Auralic Aries Mini*Dayens Ampino Preamp*Dayens Ampino Monoblocks*Usher N-6361*Wireworld Oasis cables*Wireworld Oasis IC's*IFI nano IDSD* Cambridge CXU*

    Panamax MR5100*Panamax M8-AV-PRO*Furman PST-2+6

    Head gear: Sennheiser HD 558*Audio-Technica ATH-M40x*Sennheiser HD 598 Cs*Audio-Technica ATH-MSR7*Philips SHP9500S*

    Hello Kitty boombox

    Spares: Yamaha RX-A1040*Emotiva XPA-1L Gen2 X2*Emotiva XPA-3 Gen2*CSiA6 Center*Monitor40 Series II*SVS PB1000 Sub*Sony BDPS6500 Blu-ray player*POS 37" LCD*Douglas Connection Furez 12 AWG 2 Conductor*Blue Jeans Cable LC-1's IC's*


    Self Control is over rated.
  • GatecrasherGatecrasher Posts: 1,596
    edited April 30
    PinBall machines?
    IBM 360?
    how many guesses to I get?
    oh wait, the IBM PC?

    redned has it!

    The four-sided chip carrier and socket that we were developing in 1980-81 was to contain the CPU microprocessor chip for the 1st IBM PCs that would come out a few years later. It was used by Intel up to the 286 CPU I believe. You still see them today used for smaller microprocessors.

    POLK AUDIO SRT
    (Signature Reference Theater)

    2rqdrna.jpg s6k686.jpg 11rgneu.jpg
    SRT 10.2 SYSTEM
    (4) SRT Subs & Satellites
    (2) SRT Center Speakers
    (2) SRT Control Centers w/Remote
    (4) f/x1000 Surrounds
    (2) PSW650 Subs
    Pioneer Elite SC-09TX AVR
    Pioneer Elite BDP-09FD Blu-Ray
    Pioneer Elite BDP-33FD Blu-Ray (Region-Free)
    Custom HTPC w/Multi-Lane SATA Hot-Swapable Drive RAID Tower
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,323
    So can anyone guess what the eventual use for these odd-looking four-sided components would be?
    The first one to guess the right answer really knows their sheet. lol
    So no one on here has a clue as to what these (unusual-looking for the time) 99.99% pure Russian gold-plated electrical connectors would eventually be used for? The year was 1980-81.
    This is a bit of electronic trivia.
    I was going to ask - I thought I said, well, don't keep us in suspense
  • Yep2Yep2 Posts: 756
    edited May 1
    CoolJazz wrote: »
    Yep2 wrote: »
    CoolJazz wrote: »
    Yep2 wrote: »
    Ive soldered 0 gauge power cable connectors (car audio) my whole life...
    Not easy to "crimp"!

    Of course you can. And it'd be a better connection if you did. Crimping properly is always better than doing a paste job with solder.

    CJ

    15 years experiece here.
    Your call.
    40 years here. In a broad range of various high voltage and high current applications.

    CJ

    30 yrs electrical exp. here, 15 yrs making audio cables.
    I need a breathalyzer on my computer . :p
    I get a little carried away under the influence. :(
    No worries here, different strokes and all that...

  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 91
    "gold plated over brass"
    I hate the idea of G over B

    Anyone take the rhodium route?
    Starting w/ the $250 wallplug??
    Studio 2 equipment;
    Yamaha a-s2100 Amp, CD-2100 CD player, T-S500 tuner
    Loudspeakers: Harbeth p3esr, Polk RT7
    Cables: Aural Harmony Sonnet Interconnect II, WireWorld Equinox 7 speaker,
    Black Cat silverstar 75 ohm digital, Signal Digital Power Cord, PS Audio Perfect Wave AC-3,
    Pangea SE14, Voltz supplied interconnects
    Optional: Arcam DV88 DVD/CD (HDCD) player, Polk SDS-400 speakers
  • Yep2Yep2 Posts: 756
    edited May 1
    I like a little Rhodium, but like silver, a little goes along way.
    IMHO it gets cold & sterile if used too much.
    I use it on my digital AC power cable with no complaints.
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,085
    edited May 1
    mrloren wrote: »
    I just ordered some 10 gauge wire from Douglas Connection and am hoping for the best.

    Doug's 10AWG Furez is good wire. Do yourself a favor and use a good end to terminate with. I had GLS locking bananas and changed over to Audioquest silver BFA and it is a HELLO from my speakers.

    I need to call Doug and order a few more feet to make jumpers with.

    I went from HD lamp cord, it was ok. Then it was Monster XP and again a little better. Then Monoprice 12AWG with GLS locking banana, ok we're good. Now it's 10awg Furez with Audioquest BFA, oh yeah I am good for the equipment I have.

    I used Mediabridge deadbolt banana plugs for the Douglas Furez 10 gauge wire. The wire barely fit through the center channel hole of those plugs. These plugs are are rated for up to 10 gauge wire. They are gold plated over brass. They have crimping teeth and form a very solid connection with the wire and with my speakers and receiver. I like them better than similar Monoprice banana plugs I'm also using (easier to use). I bought enough wire from Douglas for my L C R speakers and I will use 12 gauge OFC CL2 for my two surrounds. I won't be making jumpers or buying pricey banana plugs/spades for at least a year or two.

    I listened to many of my favorite recordings since last Saturday with the Furez wire and my system still sounds wonderful. This morning I listened for several hours at low level -45 db (Wings Over America, Band on the Run, etc) and the speakers are still clear and detailed at low volumes. Then I put on some very loud music - Rush Moving Pictures and cranked it up to very loud (-32.5 db) and even louder (-27.5 db) and at loud levels still wonderful. I'm happy with my speaker wires. I got the 33 year old stuff that had turned green out of my system last year. Until the last few months, I had not really thought too much about speaker wire and just took it for granted.

    I thought I was there with the GLS G over B locking plugs. Switching to the Silver Audioquest plugs made a nice difference. You can do you front 3 for $60 with the Audioquest. I would like to use the silver Furez Doug sells but that's $150 for the front 3.

    Rush moving pictures, what a great CD/LP, one of my favorites along with 2112 and Queensrych Empire. I can never get tired of those.

    -27.5db loud? wow I normally have mine around -15db or so. Yes that does get the wall shaking a bit.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Marantz SR5010, Emotiva BasX-A300
    Oppo BDP-93,Panasonic BDT460, DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk TSX250C
    Front High TC80i
    Rear: Polk RC80i
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S30
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 13,432
    Yep2 wrote: »
    I like a little Rhodium, but like silver, a little goes along way.
    IMHO it gets cold & sterile if used too much.
    I use it on my digital AC power cable with no complaints.

    I don't agree completely. I think once you start moving into higher end speakers, silver loses its edge and instead provides greater details throughout the range. I'm not sure exactly where that threshold is, but I do think there is one. Maybe it's just Wireworlds silver I don't know. Every piece I've added to the chain with silver has brought an immediate improvement with no detrimental effects.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Usher: CP-6311, Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S60, S55, S35, S30, S20, S15, RTA 15tl, Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, iFi LS3.5
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Dayens Ampino, Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, AURALiC Altair, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • Yep2Yep2 Posts: 756
    DSkip wrote: »
    Yep2 wrote: »
    I like a little Rhodium, but like silver, a little goes along way.
    IMHO it gets cold & sterile if used too much.
    I use it on my digital AC power cable with no complaints.

    I don't agree completely. I think once you start moving into higher end speakers, silver loses its edge and instead provides greater details throughout the range. I'm not sure exactly where that threshold is, but I do think there is one. Maybe it's just Wireworlds silver I don't know. Every piece I've added to the chain with silver has brought an immediate improvement with no detrimental effects.

    I like silver!
    Rhodium is cold & stetile to me.
  • Yep2Yep2 Posts: 756
    edited May 1
    Oops ..Double post.
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