Polk dxi 1201 help

seabeerob213seabeerob213 Posts: 1,727
edited April 16 in Car Subwoofer Talk
Just picked one up on cl for 65 bucks, and redid the wire, straight 14 gauge to the amp, no spring terminals. Just ran the wire though the terminals holes and sealed both sides with silicone. Dynamatted the inside of the box, and threw some on the basket too. This thing sounds pretty sweet for the price.

Question though, is it dual 2 ohm, or dual 4, i want to wire it to 4 ohm, and run it off my amp set to nominal. Amp is alpine mrv-m500, 300 rms at 4 ohm, 500 at 2. I know this sub is rated to 360 rms, and would rather run it with the amp set nominal, instead of trying to gauge where 360 is on the dial.
Post edited by seabeerob213 on

Comments

  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 5,793
    It is a single voice coil 2 ohm impedance woofer, you'd have to have a second woofer in series for a 4 ohm load.
  • seabeerob213seabeerob213 Posts: 1,727
    There's 4 inputs on the driver, 2 negative, 2 positive
  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 5,793
    You might have the DXi1240DVC not the 1201, here's the owner's manual:
    http://www.polkaudio.com.au/uploads/files/Files/DXi_Subwoofer_MN-web(1).pdf
  • seabeerob213seabeerob213 Posts: 1,727
    6n7atbj7puz9.png
    This is the one
  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 5,793
    edited April 18
    Not sure, I only see one set of binding posts, but I'll check with Kim. The standard way Polk does dual voice coils is each coil section is 4 ohms. Put them in parallel and you have 2 ohms, put them in series and you have 8 ohms. Buy another box and put it in series and then put it in series with the first box and you have 4 ohms.
    But Kim will confirm and I'll let you know.
    The way pro car shops set the amplifier levels is by looking at amp's output on 'scope for clipping and set the levels slightly below. They also use a very low high pass filter to eliminate over driving amp and still give the client plenty of "bumpity-boom-boom".
  • seabeerob213seabeerob213 Posts: 1,727
    Yeah, I pulled it all apart, and there were 4 terminals on the driver itself, 2 pos, running to red binding post, 2 neg runnin to black. I pulled the posts, and ran my wire through the holes pos the posts, and sealed the up with silicone. Bigeer wire, less connections.

    To be honest, I bought it for the box.
  • nbrowsernbrowser Posts: 6,270
    edited April 18
    Rob, a dual voice coil sub for most cases (don't quote me) is two 2 ohm coils but as Ken said, this being a Polk could be dual 4s... Be honest...just grab a multimeter and grab a static resistance of the coils, it'll be close enough on a sub like that. If your amp is 2 to 1 ohm stable, run em parallel and if that's WAY too much output, run em series.
  • seabeerob213seabeerob213 Posts: 1,727
    Dvc come in different ohm ratings yes, my kickers are dual 4 ohms. I don't have a multi, that's an expensive you for another day. Not going to buy another sub and new enclosure, as I have others in mind. The polk was just an impulse, and the box was the real desire. Think ill throw an alpine type r dual 4 ohm, wired to 2 ohms in the polk's box, and an nvx jad 1200.1 amp(basically the same as polk's big mono, and hertz' big mono) and use it for the time being. I have a jl 10w7 that I'll be sending off for repair soon, buddy gave it to me, needs a recone and refoam. That will need a custom box and 3 ohm stable amp, so that's a big expense, not looking forward to spending the cash, but am looking forward to the sound. I may order some cardas posts from Doug and make a terminal plate to replace the thin plastic cup, or run wire though the box.
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