2.3 TL Blackhole 5 placement

New to the forum and I'm ready to do some mods to my 2.3 TL's. I've got a set of Larry's rings, Dynamat, Armacell, Loctite power grab, and Blackhole 5, and planning on doing the work this weekend. My question is on the Blackhole 5 placement. I understand placing a 3 inch wide strip behind the 4 MW's from the top speaker to the bottom one, but on the 2 SDA effect speakers should I place a full strip the same length as one behind MW's or one just long enough to go from top to bottom of the 2 speakers. Also should there be a strip on the side and if so how long
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    I did mine just behind the drivers, none on the sides. A little of BH5 goes a long way.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,832
    edited February 2017
    I made 4" strips for my 1.2tl's, I made them the length of the driver configuration, and placed them on the back wall behind the drivers..
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Mine are 4" as well.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Thanks F1nut and Toolfan66. That should give me enough left over to do my 2A's.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    I had plenty left over after doing the 2.3TL's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • I cut 3' strips for my 2Bs and this probably the 2nd best audible improvement. 1st clearly was changing out the SL2000s to the RD 194s and then the BH-5 worked so well I was even considering taking it out because it tightened up the sound so much I was a bit shocked. My Dynamat came free from a stop at a car shop place and had a load of unused shards I collected and then the B-H-5 I got a cheap sheet off C/L near me.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc

  • 1st clearly was changing out the SL2000s to the RD 194s

    Tweeters are the next mod for me($). Mine are discolored, one dome is black, and the others are silver, but the silver has wore off on the higher parts of the domes leaving them transparent. Glad to hear they made such a difference in your speakers
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    I placed 4" wide strips of BH-5 on the back wall of my 2.3tl's to the bottom of the mw's, none on the sidewalks. I also repositioned the polyester batting. An easy tweak with very positive results.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • @F1nut
    Do you still have the blackhole5 and would you be willing to part with it?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    I give some away and the rest I need for another pair of speakers. Maybe you can find someone to go in halves with you.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 2,961
    My 2b's have had most mods done with the exceptions of going TL and the BH5. Is the BH5 in addition to or in place of the stuff that came from the factory?
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, modded Polk SDA 2B, Rythmik L12 sub.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,832
    muncybob wrote: »
    My 2b's have had most mods done with the exceptions of going TL and the BH5. Is the BH5 in addition to or in place of the stuff that came from the factory?

    Addition to the poly..
  • drumminman wrote: »
    I placed 4" wide strips of BH-5 on the back wall of my 2.3tl's to the bottom of the mw's, none on the sidewalks. I also repositioned the polyester batting. An easy tweak with very positive results.

    Thanks drumminman, I just remember seeing a discussion where the poster had put it on the sidewall

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,832
    Drahthaar wrote: »
    drumminman wrote: »
    I placed 4" wide strips of BH-5 on the back wall of my 2.3tl's to the bottom of the mw's, none on the sidewalks. I also repositioned the polyester batting. An easy tweak with very positive results.

    Thanks drumminman, I just remember seeing a discussion where the poster had put it on the sidewall


    I put it on the side wall, but it is not needed..
  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 2,961
    Looks like I'll be doing this next time I open up the 2B's. I'm clear that 4" strips are adequate but exactly where do I start and end the strips?
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, modded Polk SDA 2B, Rythmik L12 sub.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Just behind the mid-drivers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,832
    muncybob wrote: »
    Looks like I'll be doing this next time I open up the 2B's. I'm clear that 4" strips are adequate but exactly where do I start and end the strips?

    It's like this, I have the 1.2tl's I have two strips 4" wide starting from the top of the top driver (mid) to the bottom of the bottom driver (mid)



  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 2,961
    Just ordered some BH5, should be here inside of a week.
    Why the 4" size? Why not the diameter of the drivers? I guess I'm not real clear exactly what the BH5 is doing to the sound.
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, modded Polk SDA 2B, Rythmik L12 sub.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    edited February 2017
    I believe in a nut shell. Behaves like the cabinet is bigger than it is. Too much and it seems to suck the life out of the sound
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    ^ BINGO ^
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 2,961
    I have read that cutting the BH5 with a table saw produces the cleanest cut. Would it be cut with the adhesive down or up?

    Looking back at DK's write up on BH5 I see he installed also on side walls and behind tweeters. This was done some time ago so I'm sure there has been some experimenting since then. It's been mentioned sidewalls are not needed to be treated, but what about the tweeters?
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, modded Polk SDA 2B, Rythmik L12 sub.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Down because it slides better on the table.

    Tweeters don't have a backwave.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • muncybob wrote: »
    I have read that cutting the BH5 with a table saw produces the cleanest cut. Would it be cut with the adhesive down or up?

    Looking back at DK's write up on BH5 I see he installed also on side walls and behind tweeters. This was done some time ago so I'm sure there has been some experimenting since then. It's been mentioned sidewalls are not needed to be treated, but what about the tweeters?

    I cut mine with a bandsaw. It did a great job with very little dust/waste. And definitely adhesive side down.

    But like you I saw what DK had done and I put some BH5 behind the tweeters. I wonder how hard it is to get that stuff off. I should have listened to F1nut and Toolfan66

  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 2,961
    It would appear that I will have plenty BH5 left over so if anybody wants to work out something on what they may need, PM me.

    I'm glad I stumbled on all things BH5 here as I'm sure I would have gone overboard otherwise. Looking forward to yet another beneficial tweak.
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, modded Polk SDA 2B, Rythmik L12 sub.
  • gudnoyez
    gudnoyez Posts: 8,056
    edited February 2017
    I would take some off your hands where would you place it on CRS+'s since the Passive is located in the back?
    Home Theater
    Parasound Halo A 31 OnkyoTX-NR838 Sony XBR55X850B 55" 4K RtiA9 Fronts CsiA6 Center RtiA3 Rears FxiA6 Side Surrounds Dual Psw 111's Oppo 105D Signal Ultra Speaker Cables & IC's Signal Magic Power Cable Technics SL Q300 Panamax MR4300 Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables Audioquest Forest USB Cable

    2 Channel
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,832
    gudnoyez wrote: »
    I would take some off your hands where would you place it on CRS+'s since the Passive is located in the back?

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/172176/sda-crs-with-an-external-crossover-twist/p1

    Go to page 7 scroll down, and you can see the pieces of wood I put in place to mount the BH5 on, worked perfect..

    A couple other guys did something similar..
  • gudnoyez
    gudnoyez Posts: 8,056
    edited February 2017
    Thanks Larry @ muncybob incoming PM.
    Home Theater
    Parasound Halo A 31 OnkyoTX-NR838 Sony XBR55X850B 55" 4K RtiA9 Fronts CsiA6 Center RtiA3 Rears FxiA6 Side Surrounds Dual Psw 111's Oppo 105D Signal Ultra Speaker Cables & IC's Signal Magic Power Cable Technics SL Q300 Panamax MR4300 Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables Audioquest Forest USB Cable

    2 Channel
    Adcom 555II Vincent SA-T1 Marantz SA 15S2 Denon DR-M11 Clearaudio Bluemotion SDA 2.3tl's (Z) edition MIT Terminator II Speaker Cables & IC's Adcom 545II Adcom Gtp-450 Marantz CD5004 Technics M245X SDA 2B's, SDA CRS+

    Stuff for the Head
    JD LABS C5 Headphone Amplifier, Sennheiser HD 598, Polk Audio Buckle, Polk Audio Hinge, Velodyne vPulse, Bose IE2, Sennheiser CX 200 Street II, Sennheiser MX 365

    Shower & Off the beaten path Rigs
    Polk Audio Boom Swimmer, Polk Audio Urchin B)
  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 2,961
    OK, I hate to be a pain here but in carpentry you measure twice and cut once, so I'm just wanting to be sure of what I'm cutting here. I'll be going with the consensus that the BH5 should be 4"....should the strips be 4X4 or closer to the actual width between the center brace that is between the mids on my 2B's and the outer wall which would then make them 4X6....maybe that 2" difference is nothing to worry about?
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, modded Polk SDA 2B, Rythmik L12 sub.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,832
    I would cut them 4 x 6 put them on the back wall directly behind the drivers..

    So you would need 4 pieces cut 4 x 6, and put them so the 4" is across, 6" top to bottom..

    Of course you can try it how ever you want, this is just how I would do it..
  • muncybob
    muncybob Posts: 2,961
    So I did install the BH5 exactly as Larry describes. I'm amazed how a small patch of this material makes this kind of difference. I don't have golden ears anymore...maybe not even bronze, but to me the vocals seem more "realistic" and somehow the low end is more pronounced. I listened to several cd's that I'm very familiar with and previously some of the details I sorta had to really listen for where now it seems the detail is effortless...if that makes any sense?
    Now I'm chomping at the bit for my tube pre to return and do some chillaxin'.
    Yep, my name really is Bob.
    Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, modded Polk SDA 2B, Rythmik L12 sub.