SDA upgrade thread 2

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Comments

  • muncybobmuncybob Posts: 1,561
    Man, you been bz! Sealing the cabinets is 1 thing I totally overlooked when I had mine open...dang it! Still, they do pass the push test so maybe it's not really needed on mine. I guess if I open them up again I will do it though along with an inductor change. My wife says they sound good as are and I kinda agree with her. Adding the BH5 was worthwhile for sure...really looking forward to getting my tube pre back for some serious listening.

    Keep calm and mod on!
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    I did the push test on mine by pushing in the passive radiator. All of the woofers came out and then immediately settled back down a bit (*not all the way though*) So I definitely have some cabinet leakage somewhere.vypwzv28au1j.jpg

    However I have to go to another hardware store and pick up some more Power Grab in the larger container that you use with the squeeze gun. The ones that I have are like toothpaste tubes and as you can see in some of the pics it ain't workin' out too good. :| :#
  • dkfreebirddkfreebird Posts: 666
    I think you will find the larger tubes to be harder to work with. Just run a small bead on the seams and smooth it out with your finger. I tried the larger tubes on mine and went to the smaller ones.
  • machonemachone Posts: 697
    It's hard to get a gun into the cabinet.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    Okay so smaller tubes and rubber gloves it is!
    Thanks @dkfreebird and @machone !!
    If anyone else has any experiences/tidbits/tips post'em here. This is why I started this thread.
  • stones89stones89 Posts: 194
    You are doing a good job! Thanks for posting the journey.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 6,589
    edited March 7
    they also make a power grab in a pressurized can that might work in there. First I'd remove everything, trying to work around stuff is a pita
  • You can also use a rounded end popsicle stick to form the Power Grab into a nice fillet for cabinet seams.

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 6,589
    You can also use a rounded end popsicle stick to form the Power Grab into a nice fillet for cabinet seams.

    yep i always keep a bag of those around. So many uses very versatile. Any craft store or wal-mart will have them.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    You can also use a rounded end Popsicle stick to form the Power Grab into a nice fillet for cabinet seams.

    Popsicle stick eh?
    COOL
    I see`em all the time discarded. Now of course just because I'll be looking for one I won't find any!
    Thanks @littlewoodboats !
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 6,845
    I got the self pressurized can type and it worked fine for me. You don't need no stinking gloves, just wipe your finger off on a hand towel. It mostly comes off, the rest in the following days ;)
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    Nightfall wrote: »
    I got the self pressurized can type and it worked fine for me. You don't need no stinking gloves, just wipe your finger off on a hand towel. It mostly comes off, the rest in the following days ;)

    Dass juss NASTY :# :p
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 12,905
    Nightfall wrote: »
    I got the self pressurized can type and it worked fine for me. You don't need no stinking gloves, just wipe your finger off on a hand towel. It mostly comes off, the rest in the following days ;)

    Dass juss NASTY :# :p

    Lesson of the day: Don't let him use your hand towels.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 6,589
    Nightfall wrote: »
    I got the self pressurized can type and it worked fine for me. You don't need no stinking gloves, just wipe your finger off on a hand towel. It mostly comes off, the rest in the following days ;)

    or you could wash your hands, it is water soluble
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 6,845
    I did, still couldn't get it 100% off, I may have just lost patience too soon though.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    edited March 8
    fezc23k08a5g.jpg

    You know,this requires a LOT MORE work,patience and attention to detail than it looks like on some of the threads that I've seen. You have to make sure you mark the wiring once it's removed from each driver. So that you NOT ONLY know which driver it goes to,but also which is the positive terminal. You also have to have a small,Flathead screwdriver or something of that sort to CAREFULLY pry the drivers out of the countersunk holes in the cabinet. Gluing the magnets ain't no picnic either.
    Next step is to apply more glue to the corners of the cabinet and then apply the Blackhole 5 that you see lying on the cabinet.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    edited March 8
    y6vafyz8l730.jpg

    The wiring is JUST long enough to go to each driver,so it would be VERY EASY to get it all mixed up.ESPECIALLY when some of it is wired in series! :o
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    edited March 8
    aw6g7k3qohnm.jpg

    I'm gonna take my sweet time doing this. All this bending over the cabinets and what not ain't exactly a walk in the park anymore when your middle aged :( and I don't have a workshop or workbench in a garage like some of the guys on here. Small apartment here with no basement or garage. :#
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    It's a good thing I love my Polk SDA's and like doing stuff like this!! :D
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    w4ucve6cp4pg.jpg

    ONE Blackhole5 pad installed (*yay*) I'm done for now. Get black to this later
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    muncybob wrote: »
    Man, you been bz! Sealing the cabinets is 1 thing I totally overlooked when I had mine open...dang it! Still, they do pass the push test so maybe it's not really needed on mine. I guess if I open them up again I will do it though along with an inductor change. My wife says they sound good as are and I kinda agree with her. Adding the BH5 was worthwhile for sure...really looking forward to getting my tube pre back for some serious listening.

    Keep calm and mod on!

    @muncybob
    Again my thanks for the BH5. When you do the push test look CLOSELY at the woofers when you push in the passive radiator. While your hand is holding the PR in look to see if the woofers move back inward while your hand is still and holding the PR in. If the woofers move then you got air leakage! I discovered it's far easier to see when the cabinet in flat on it's back on the floor.
  • 1976doc1976doc Posts: 252
    aw6g7k3qohnm.jpg

    I'm gonna take my sweet time doing this. All this bending over the cabinets and what not ain't exactly a walk in the park anymore when your middle aged :( and I don't have a workshop or workbench in a garage like some of the guys on here. Small apartment here with no basement or garage. :#

    Middle aged? When is that again?
    Or is that back in the time of hobbits and dragons?
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    Hobbits?
    Never heard of`em :D
  • NightfallNightfall Posts: 6,845
    No matter how air tight the cabinets are the MWs will always retract because the dust caps can breathe.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,344
    muncybob wrote: »
    Man, you been bz! Sealing the cabinets is 1 thing I totally overlooked when I had mine open...dang it! Still, they do pass the push test so maybe it's not really needed on mine. I guess if I open them up again I will do it though along with an inductor change. My wife says they sound good as are and I kinda agree with her. Adding the BH5 was worthwhile for sure...really looking forward to getting my tube pre back for some serious listening.

    Keep calm and mod on!

    @muncybob
    Again my thanks for the BH5. When you do the push test look CLOSELY at the woofers when you push in the passive radiator. While your hand is holding the PR in look to see if the woofers move back inward while your hand is still and holding the PR in. If the woofers move then you got air leakage! I discovered it's far easier to see when the cabinet in flat on it's back on the floor.

    Laying on their backs is not how you test for air leaks because you now have this thing called gravity to deal with. In addition, as Nightfall noted, the drivers will retract regardless. The time span is 3 to 5 seconds.
  • nbrowsernbrowser Posts: 6,276
    Ah memories of the ring install...I've done the 194 upgrade since so...

    iaovasv456y1.jpg
    d6t08qo44wwk.jpg
    ewk4mk1486t0.jpg
  • VR3VR3 Posts: 21,757
    Looking good! :)
  • muncybobmuncybob Posts: 1,561
    On the push test, the drivers will retract slightly but then will maintain their outward position for 5+ seconds...never really timed it but it was more than 5 seconds I'm sure. I'm glad I had my pool table to work on my cabinets!

    So, if I was interested in going to the next level of making my 2B's TL, besides a new tweeter what is needed. My x-overs are already done with sonic caps, mills, etc. I must say, I'm fairly happy with the way they sound now but as usual you don't know what you don't know.
  • honestaquarianhonestaquarian Posts: 1,858
    The rings will be next.
    Now that I think of it the woofers did hold in place for a few seconds after they settled.I'm still sealing the cabinets though. I've already started doing it so..........
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,344
    muncybob wrote: »
    On the push test, the drivers will retract slightly but then will maintain their outward position for 5+ seconds...never really timed it but it was more than 5 seconds I'm sure.

    You don't understand the push test. It is the amount of time the drivers stay ALL the way out, before they react to their resting position.

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