Cardas thruholes.... 1/2" or 13 mm?

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Answers

  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited May 7
    Nice work, love the beveled edge and step. I just did something similar for my monitor 5's. I just used some stainless drop from one of our lasers though. I might revisit in a couple of months after seeing these.
    Side note: have you thought about making a counter bore and mounting the neutrik connectors on the inside? That way it sits flush to the surface.
    "The Night is Dark and Full of Terrors."
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    The 0.5" deep thru hole affords the most sealing surface. The counterbore would be neat if they didn't leak air.
    I'm not even using/needing the Neutrik gasket.

    Thought I read a recent post that the Neutrik 4 pin are not air-tight themselves?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,680
    Certain Neutriks are air tight such as the ones I always recommend. Check the spec sheet.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    F1, you're like E.F. Hutton of the audio world.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited May 9
    Got a couple sets of the billet Monitor plates done.... I also rotated the mount bolt holes 45 deg. on these. It just makes them even easier to install by drilling into fresh MDF.
    I ordered the Dayton Gold posts to see what sleeves/spacers need to be done to install...

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  • xschopxschop Posts: 535

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  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited May 10
    I've cut a couple of the old early 5jr X-over cups off with the lathe, but these were only held/sandwiched together by the terminal mounts. Instead of cutting down the plastic and gluing to back of plates, I decided to glue some 3/16" high impact polyurethane foam to the other half. When it dries I'll glue it to the billet with Aleens.... Simple and isolates even more vibes while making clearance for the binding posts, and moving the X-over another 0.625" rearward....
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  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Is vinyl tape ok to use as the thru-hole insulator?The Daytons are an oddball 0.280" dia. knurled shank and I only have 0.25" dia. sleeves ATM.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,120
    edited May 16
    shrink tubing? I would think tape would be fine just tossing out the tubing as another thought.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    That's a good idea. The knurled area continues directly into the threaded area at 0.240" dia.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Good call Pitt.The 5mm red tubing is perfect...

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  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Was playing at fairly loud vol. all day and started hearing a rattle. Thought it was my CRS knocking over sockets in the tool chests again. Nary a situation. Discovered the factory inductor nut came loose, so installed longer stainless hardware with crush washers and added anti-vibe pad to it...problem solved.
    While in there, I wondered if I should solder in the fastons at the Neutrik terminals? Do these tend to vibrate loose? They can slightly wiggle side to side but cannot pull off easily.

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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,680
    Some Neutrik sockets can take the heat from soldering, others can't. It appears to me that yours can't.

    You can always crimp the rolled edges of the faston a bit to tighten the grip.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Now those are the kind of solutions I don't mind having delegated. They're snug now.

    I was redoing the tweeter leads in 16g OFC and I removed all the set-pins in the X-over terminals and re-crimped then shot with deoxit....

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