Cardas thruholes.... 1/2" or 13 mm?

Starting a set of thick billet plates and have generic gold posts that require 1/2" holes. Figured I want to drill for Cardas Incase of later upgrade and I sell the spare set.
Has anyone installed the interlocked Cardas plastic bases in alloy?

Best Answers

  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Accepted Answer
    That's a good tech drawing and answers another question. The 5/16 thread allowed me to use a common 5/16" ID Teflon tube/sleeve thru the 1/2" alloy depth on my last set. Thanks again.
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Answers

  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Thank you, the fleabay ones I looked at had a 0.513" dimension and I thought they could be china knock-offs.

    On another note my plates will machine 1/2" thick with 1/4" step for inset. Do they may a longer set like yours in link above?

    Thanks for your help.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited February 15
    The odd stainless tapered set screws finally showed along with my Neutrik inputs....
    Another question or two...
    Since these generic posts don't have set screws for the inner wires, is it kosher to simply use an eyewasher style crimp and bolt them down from the inside once they are attached to the plate to avoid soldering to the gold plate?

    Also does it matter which pin/blade wire goes on either Neutrik pin?



    4mh6xy77qt1d.jpg
    Post edited by xschop on
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    You are suppose to use M3 (3 millimeter) screws/hardware for the Neutrik sockets and you should have used the 4 pole high current version.

    Solder those connections.

    One should be marked + and the other -.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    OK, solder it is.
    I went off the tech drawing I found for the nl2mp showing the hole diameter at 0.138" which happens to the major diameter for 6-32 screws. There's no slop in the sidewalls and the taper fits snug.

    I haven't read any threads yet for Neutrik line replacement for the interconnect cable. I'm not sure if pin/blade inputs from factory crossover matter assuming I build the cable to match. Or is the Neutrik cable shielded for main signal?
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited February 16
    OK. I had some extra coffee, read some more diatribe and didn't see any shielded jargon. Couple clicks and I have a new 10ft pre-assembled 15g Speak-on connector on its way.
    I'll only be pushing 80wpc thru these CRS rarely, and I did see where you guys were using the 4- pin connector on the Big SDAs. That's good info to know. Thanks again. F1 is a pleathora of knowledge.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    Ok, see how your screw heads are proud of the flange? With M3 screws they sit flush.

    Another tidbit while we're at it. Only some of the Neutrik sockets are air tight, so folks need to check on that before ordering.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited February 16
    Proud by 0.035"

    I just pressure tested them, no leaks thankfully.

    Im line boring the ID of the plates for each Neutrik with a 0.0005 interference fit.
    All of them are within the tolerance of the Neutrik drawing, but I ruminate over my machine fitment like you guys do for your binding posts.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    This is with M3 screws/hardware. Zoom in for a better look.

    4cglf1mlzkwp.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Hey that doesn't have any binding posts, hehe.
    Nice work. I think I'll keep these tapped standard with the socket heads. I just saw the Vr3 plates with dome heads?
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Ok I used the search here and I cannot find the pics of the custom billet plates someone had done I believe in stainless. Anyone familiar with those?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    edited February 26
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited February 26
    Thats them. Thanks, I wanted to see how close the posts are to the tapered walls before I cut mine. I dont think I'll inset mine at all due to my large thumbs and the scarce real estate there. Also his cab mount holes are a little larger than factory as well. Im CNCing mine to step them out a touch further so the larger holes drilled in the cabs have more MDF and the hurricane nuts clear the ID of the large factory thru hole.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Got some free time to prog the CNC. so I can make them on lathe or mill depending on what size material materializes later...
    ughhspmy9a1b.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    fzjhxpm2xnhw.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited March 16
    Had to make special vice jigs just for these... A 0.25" mounting lip will never bend no matter how thick the armacell is hehe...

    Is the standard hurricane nut used on the old Polks 8-32 ?

    stpbvuaes43e.jpg


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    I see something beautiful in the making.

    Yes, 8-32.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited March 18
    Thanks F1. These will be trick. As you may see the flange is also a touch wider and holes also on a touch larger radii for the hurricane nuts and bolts to hold more formaldehyde and sawdust....

    I'm tapping and facing them with the same finish as the silverface knobs and billet feet I recently made.....

    dci2skzjtqut.jpg

    z30yyymca5oq.jpg



  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited March 18
    The shop lights and phone camera have grievances ..

    poearv1c3zur.jpg
    e8i489y33d85.jpg
    Post edited by xschop on
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    Ok, this is looking different than I thought, looks good just different.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Definitely not done yet. I busted a center drill on one of the holes and called it an evening. Ill have to mill it out with 1/2" end mill.
    These are for my CRS project, but another swirled set is for someone else's project and those will be true spiral machining on the outside. He commented something about vertigo hehe.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    Ah, ok.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    The XS-CRS plates breath.....

    tsi9m1qr77g7.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Do you guys normally drill for the major diameter of the 8-32 screw or the shaft diameter of the hurricane nut insert?

    tblpv60rh6rn.jpg
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,670
    The stud of the nut minus the barbs and the best way to install them is to draw them in with a screw.

    The plate looks good, beefy too. I thought you were making a cup type plate at first, but see I was mistaken.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    edited March 22
    Cup type doesn't allow much tap depth nor sidewall for the Neutrik. I don't even need a gasket, just PTFE grease or a touch of RTV if that on sidewall.
    Also this design allows up to 3 sets of binding posts if so desired.
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    vcd3uqho2kqk.jpg
    dqyiav7j3s9m.jpg
    iak32gosh5fk.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 535
    Looks like Im going to make a couple sets for monitors without the Neutriks. PM if interested and Ill get extra material.

    Now that I've installed a set, Im going to rotate the flange bolts 45* so fresh MDF is drilled into.
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