Need An Aftermarket Stereo

I recently got a set of subwoofers and an amplifier but still they are not giving me the kind of sound I need. So I'm asking, do I need an aftermarket stereo to hook these gadgets up?

Comments

  • rpf65rpf65 Posts: 1,460
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 1,570
    Car audio?
  • stangman67stangman67 Posts: 389
    Seems like car audio
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  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.
  • tonybtonyb Posts: 27,813
    SamK wrote: »
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.

    Need a bit more info.....what kind of subwoofers are they, brand, model ? What kind of amp ? Are the subs in the trunk, rear deck ? What are you using as the source for music, stock stereo, if so, what kind ? How is it wired right now ?
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  • RicardoRicardo Posts: 10,472
    SamK wrote: »
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.

    Well, if that is "everything", you need more than just a stereo.
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  • erniejadeerniejade Posts: 3,771
    Are you running a crossover to all the speakers??
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  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    They are MTX Audio subwoofers. 1,200 watt. @erniejade how do I choose a crossover?
  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 1,570
    You are not giving enough info to help you. And this should be in the car stereo area of the forum where more people who live in that world will see it.
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 3,752
    DaveHo wrote: »
    You are not giving enough info to help you. And this should be in the car stereo area of the forum where more people who live in that world will see it.

    And you have been asked several times. If you want help you have to post more than one liners dude...
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  • erniejadeerniejade Posts: 3,771
    You would need a crossover to put the mids and highs to the door speakers amp and the lows to the sub amp. Usually people cross over at 80-100 hz depending on the rest of your rig and as others have pointed out, you need a lot more information in this thread to help you.
    Lumin D1, KEF LS50 Wireless, Cayin scd-50T, LH Labs VI Dac, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Jolida D9, HP I7 Laptop, Wireworld Eclipse 7, Wireworld Aurora, Wireworld Electra 7, Signal Magic Digital, Cardas Quadralink 5C, Velodyne SPL1200
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    HT: Elite SC27, Full Polk RTI setup.

  • recoveryonerecoveryone Posts: 484
    edited January 20
    from what I have kleen from your posting you are using a factory installed head unit? in some of todays vehicle some are quite good, but may still lack the ability to act as your crossover point for the output of the sound. So aftermarket may be the best starting point. All brands have head units that can help with your problem, most in the mid to highend range. My past experience there are two common ways to setup your system.

    1. Most modern HU (head units) you have your standard wiring harness and RCA outputs jacks. You can run the front/door speakers off the harness , then us the RCA jacks for your sub connection. By doing this you are still only using the built in amp power of the HU, so don't expect much humph as you are sharing power with all speakers.
    2. Run the front speakers off the HU, then add a seprate mono amp for the subs. this gives you more power for the sub's and you will be able to control/detail the bass to your liking.
    3. In one my old cars I ran 3 amps one 4 channel for the all the doors, used the bypass output of that amp to 2 mono amps for the 10" subs I had in a box in the trunk.

    Most of all learn to do your math, todays auto audio market use off the chart claims about power output/handling. A simple way to look at speakers and amps is this take the max output and divide that amount by 2 until you reach 8ohms. So a 1000 watt sub at 2ohms is only 500 watt 4ohm and 250 at 8ohms this will keep things more in real world results.
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  • stangman67stangman67 Posts: 389
    I am just confused as I am sure everyone else is. From your original post, it seems yopu have them hooked up in some fashion? How are they hooked up and I can help from there and what are they not doing that you want them to? In my former life I was a car audio nut, so I can help if you just provide a little more detail
    2 Channel
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    HT
    Denon AVR-x4200w running 5.1.2 I RTI-10's I CSI-5 I FXI-A4's I OMW-3 as Atmos heights I DIY 15" Dayton SW I BENQ HT2050 I Silver Ticket 120" Fixed Screen
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,182
    Hmm car audio, have not been down that hole for about 16 years

    If you're going to do it do it right

    1 good head unit
    2 good amps don't know whats good there any more, you will need 2. 1 4 chanel for the speakers and 1 2 chanel for the subs
    3 good wiring
    4 good speakers
    5 good subs Polk JL audio Cerwin Vega (if they are still around) Kicker

    you can spend thousands on this and all it takes is some dirt bag a minute to steel it all.

    I had a 1999 Nissan extended cab truck with punch 800 on 2 JL 10W3 Polk separates in the doors and 6X9 in boxes above the sub box with a Sony ES amp ES head with 6 disc changer.

    I sold the truck a month later the guy who bought it from me told me the stereo got ripped off in his driveway. $2.500 stereo gone
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

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    Rear: Polk MC80
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

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    Center: Polk Signature S30
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

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  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,013
    edited January 21
    SamK, your questions are much to vague to help you. Did you like the OEM sound before the subwoofers? If not, then the subs will only add bass to crappy sound. In the end, you may be after an aftermarket deck, speakers, and amplifier. Go to a car audio shop and asks a lot of questions and listen. Then come back with detailed questions and a second opinion.
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    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
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  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 6,058
    Gentlemen,
    Let's try and be as helpful as we can and refrain from extraneous comments that only confuse.
    Thanks, Ken
    "Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information available", G. Benfield
  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 8,468
    10-4

    But we are the confused
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  • KennethSwaugerKennethSwauger Moderator Posts: 6,058
    Hello "SamK",
    In order to answer your question: "how do I choose a crossover?" we would need to know what is the low frequency capability of your front and rear deck speakers? Also, what is the brand and model number of the amplifier you are using?
    Regards, Ken
    "Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information available", G. Benfield
  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    I think wiring is fine. The problem is that when I put the bass to maximum on the amp, the speakers start producing some buzzing sound.
  • treitz3treitz3 Posts: 12,227
    Is this like a buzz or "whine" sound that goes up and down with the reving of the engine or more like a buzz sound that is only apparent when a low passage or drum kick hits?

    Tom
    In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence.

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  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,013
    edited January 23
    SamK wrote: »
    I think wiring is fine. The problem is that when I put the bass to maximum on the amp, the speakers start producing some buzzing sound.

    SamK, again your response is too vague.

    1) What do you mean by "I put the bass to maximum on the amp?" Are you referring to the gain adjustment knob on the amp? If so, that is a component level match adjustment. Too much gain will cause distortion. Follow the level match procedures in the amplifier instructions or there are tutorials on the web and tons of YouTube videos on amplifier gain setting.

    2) What speakers distort? The subs or the door/ dash speakers or both the subs and the door speakers?

    3) What sub amp are you using?

    4) So, the rest of the stereo is OEM?
    Post edited by WLDock on
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • SamKSamK Posts: 13
    No worries I got a technician to fix it. The sound is now top-notch. Thank you all!
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