SRS 1.2 no bass
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dan98svt
Posts: 83
I've been through them twice, all the wires are connected properly. The cabinets are sealed. They are sitting flat on the floor (tiles on concrete). All the drivers work (they move, but not a lot). They are being fed up to 450 wpc rms from a good class a/b amp.
I can turn on the loudness and the bass to +12 and they have a little bass (drivers move a bit more), but I get a lot better sound with my SDA 1b speakers with the settings pretty flat. Even the Monitor 7s have better bass.
I have tried without the interconnect cable, tried just the left or the right speaker, no improvements either way.
There are 5 mismatched speakers (6509 in place of 6511 or 6510) between the 2 speakers. Would that cause such a huge loss in bass?
Could it be something in the crossovers? What other choices do I have?
Thanks,
Dan
I can turn on the loudness and the bass to +12 and they have a little bass (drivers move a bit more), but I get a lot better sound with my SDA 1b speakers with the settings pretty flat. Even the Monitor 7s have better bass.
I have tried without the interconnect cable, tried just the left or the right speaker, no improvements either way.
There are 5 mismatched speakers (6509 in place of 6511 or 6510) between the 2 speakers. Would that cause such a huge loss in bass?
Could it be something in the crossovers? What other choices do I have?
Thanks,
Dan
Comments
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Is the interconnect socket pin/blade or blade/blade?
Are the red binding post nuts on the right or the left?
If indeed the interconnect socket is pin/blade, then the red binding post nuts are supposed to be on the left, black on the right, irregardless of what the sticker on the back of the speakers denotes. In effect, having the binding post nuts reversed will result in the speakers being out of phase and thus create a loss in bass response.
A lot of the SDA SRS 1.2's left the factory bearing a label for the original SRS (blade/blade). Reason: Polk was using up old stock and put the sticker on the next generation SDA SRS 1.2's which are supposed to have the positive on the left (red) and negative (black) on the right. Folks have been unwittingly listening to their speakers out of phase since day one.
Note: The 1.2's can be converted to the "TL" version. Google for the details.
SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
I have used a 1.5v battery to confirm driver phase on my 1A's and 2.3TL's.
First I disconnect the leads from the amplifier and the SDA cable.
Then hook alligator leads to the binding posts and hold the + binding post lead to the + end of the battery. Then quickly touch (not hold) the - binding post lead to the - end of the battery. The drivers should "bump" out away from the cabinet in phase together. The same should happen for the other speaker.Mojo Audio Illuminati v3>>Quantum Byte w/LMS>>Rpi/PiCoreplayer>> Starlight 7 USB >> Mojo Audio Mystique v2 SE>>ModWright SWL 9.0 SE Signature>>Hafler DH-500 Amp+ (Musical Concepts Fully Modded)>>
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I have the pin / blade sockets. I'll check the posts when I get home.
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You mentioned that there are 5 mismatched speakers using 6509's in place of 6511's or 6510's. The 1.2's have 6503 and 6511 drivers only. It sounds like you have the original SRS, not 1.2's, however, the definitive proof will be whether the IC socket is pin/blade or blade/blade (there's no such thing as a blade/blade 1.2, only the original SRS has blade/blade).SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
As for upgrading to TL, I've already bought 12 rdo0194s... The only place left for those 8 is my Monitor 7s, but that's 6 too many. :-) I'll be staying 1.2. I would like to upgrade my crossovers, but first I want to be sure the speakers work properly.
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You definitely have 1.2's however, having 6510 midwoofers sounds like something isn't right. Unless I'm reading your post incorrectly.
The inside (stereo) midwoofers are supposed to be 6503's and the (outside) drivers are supposed to be 6511's on the 1.2's.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
The TL mod utilizes the RD0198-1's tweeters, not the RD0194-1'sSDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
No, it's probably me... When I got them, 5 of the mids were frozen, (not when I bought them, but when I finally got them in the house. Learned a valuable lesson that day). I took them out about a year ago but forgot the model numbers, and I took 5 from my 1Bs and replaced the ones in the 1.2s. For some reason I was thinking they are 6510 and 11.
Dan -
I meant 1C. Too many numbers and letters for this old brain. ..
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My reds are on the right as I stand behind the speakers and look at them. I swapped the cables around and no improvement or difference. I have the pin / blade socket for the interconnect (which I disconnected for the swap test). The cables are in the correct connectors on the amp.
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If I look at the connectors inside the speaker (terminals) will I be able to obviously see if they are running to the + or - on the crossover? i.e. is it marked?
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I have used a 1.5v battery to confirm driver phase on my 1A's and 2.3TL's.
First I disconnect the leads from the amplifier and the SDA cable.
Then hook alligator leads to the binding posts and hold the + binding post lead to the + end of the battery. Then quickly touch (not hold) the - binding post lead to the - end of the battery. The drivers should "bump" out away from the cabinet in phase together. The same should happen for the other speaker.
Do this as someone has been in there. It's very easy to get things wired in reverse and especially with that mish mash of wrong drivers. I had imaging problems with my 1.2tl's and as it turned out 2 drivers were wired out of phase in the left speaker. -
Yes!!pull the passive and have a look my SDAs are + on the left so are my monitors. Your 1.2s should make tons of good solid bass.Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
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Sorry I'm thinking of my SDAs you have a crossover plate I believe.Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
Polk SDA2btl highly modded
Polk SDA 1C modded
Polk CS350 LS x2
Kimber 8TC
Sony 55" Bravia
Wish list SVS sub -
I have used a 1.5v battery to confirm driver phase on my 1A's and 2.3TL's.
First I disconnect the leads from the amplifier and the SDA cable.
Then hook alligator leads to the binding posts and hold the + binding post lead to the + end of the battery. Then quickly touch (not hold) the - binding post lead to the - end of the battery. The drivers should "bump" out away from the cabinet in phase together. The same should happen for the other speaker.
That is probably the most important test you can do to determine if the wiring is correct. If all drivers aren't in phase it will kill the bass.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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^^^^Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
Polk SDA2btl highly modded
Polk SDA 1C modded
Polk CS350 LS x2
Kimber 8TC
Sony 55" Bravia
Wish list SVS sub -
A cabinet leak will kill bass as well. have we done a leakdown test yet? Push in on the bassive and see how long it takes for the drivers to settle, it should take about 3 seconds...The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
As I suspected, they were out of phase. Not your fault of course, you were just going by what the label said. If you look at the label closely, you'll see that the illustration for the IC socket is actually blade/blade which is for the original SRS. Amazing that such an error left the factory that way. 3500 dollar speakers...anyway, I love Polk speakers and I digress... Yes, looking at the back of the speaker, red should be on the left since you have 1.2's.
I read where you switched the cables but did you unscrew the plastic binding post nuts and put the reds on the left? Might as well do that. Reattach the SDA cable because that will give you more bass as well.
You can look inside the speaker if you want to but I'm certain that the positive wires are where they're supposed to be.
Have you experimented with placement in the room? That makes a huge difference.
As John noted, do that test as well.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
For that battery test, do I remove the jumpers/bridges things?
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If they are out of phase, will the speakers (or possible individual out of phase speaker) suck in?
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If you remove the crossover plate DO NOT REMOVE THE CENTER BOLT!!!! If you do the crossover will fall off inside the speaker and crash to the bottom.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
They are now in phase once you switched the positive and negative. No other testing needs to be done.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
You should remove each individual MW and replace with the appropriate one, making sure that the positive wire (blue/green) is connected to the positive on the MW. Reminder: stereo MW's are on the inside and are 6503's and the SDA MW's are on the outside and are 6511's.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
The "Bassive Radiator". How appropriate!nooshinjohn wrote: »Push in on the bassivemichaeljhsda2 wrote: »As I suspected, they were out of phase. Not your fault of course, you were just going by what the label said.
What did I miss? He said he swapped the cables, and it didn't make any difference.My reds are on the right as I stand behind the speakers and look at them. I swapped the cables around and no improvement or difference. I have the pin / blade socket for the interconnect (which I disconnected for the swap test). The cables are in the correct connectors on the amp.
Aside from having incorrect drivers, I'd be suspicious of having one cabinet out-of-phase from the other. This will kill the bass, and screw with the SDA effect. If both cabinets have revered polarity, I'm thinking that the bass will be fine, but there will be no SDA effect.
I'm interested in knowing which "good class a/b amplifier" this is.
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Until you get the proper drivers they will not perform correctly.
6503 is 6.5 ohm
6511 is 3.1 ohm
The 6509's are 8.9 ohm
That's not to mention the different Q ratings.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Until you get the proper drivers they will not perform correctly.
6503 is 6.5 ohm
6511 is 3.1 ohm
The 6509's are 8.9 ohm
That's not to mention the different Q ratings.5 of the mids were frozen, (not when I bought them, but when I finally got them in the house. Learned a valuable lesson that day). I took them out about a year ago but forgot the model numbers, and I took 5 from my 1Bs and replaced the ones in the 1.2s. For some reason I was thinking they are 6510 and 11.
Dan
If I read this right, he has no 6509s in his SRS 1.2s. He scavenged midwoofers from a 1C, not a 1B; therefore he used 6510 and 6511 driver(s).I meant 1C. Too many numbers and letters for this old brain. ..
Depending on WHICH drivers "froze", and which were scavenged from the 1Cs, he could have only one incorrect driver. That would be "best-case", I guess. Until he tells us which drivers froze and which replaced them, we won't know for sure.
You are right, though--until ALL of the drivers are correct, the speakers won't work properly. -
..and having everything in phase with the IC connected.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
...and proper room placement...SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Until you get the proper drivers they will not perform correctly.
6503 is 6.5 ohm
6511 is 3.1 ohm
The 6509's are 8.9 ohm
That's not to mention the different Q ratings.5 of the mids were frozen, (not when I bought them, but when I finally got them in the house. Learned a valuable lesson that day). I took them out about a year ago but forgot the model numbers, and I took 5 from my 1Bs and replaced the ones in the 1.2s. For some reason I was thinking they are 6510 and 11.
Dan
If I read this right, he has no 6509s in his SRS 1.2s. He scavenged midwoofers from a 1C, not a 1B; therefore he used 6510 and 6511 driver(s).I meant 1C. Too many numbers and letters for this old brain. ..
Depending on WHICH drivers "froze", and which were scavenged from the 1Cs, he could have only one incorrect driver. That would be "best-case", I guess. Until he tells us which drivers froze and which replaced them, we won't know for sure.
You are right, though--until ALL of the drivers are correct, the speakers won't work properly.
From his OP.There are 5 mismatched speakers (6509 in place of 6511 or 6510) between the 2 speakers. Would that cause such a huge loss in bass?
The answer is, you're damn right.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Waiting to hear back from you Dan, wanna hear what happened. You would not believe the mistakes I have made messing with the SDA speakers I have ..It was a total new world to me when I got my first set...
