New 2 Channel Setup Cable Suggestions

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  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,627
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    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    Because it's a cable thread....duhhh

    Naw, its cause, no one can back up anything they say. And that is simply being truthful.
    It is only anecdotal stories.
    Therefore, it calls into question how definite anything is.

    "hey I saw bigfoot",. .....get it?
    "hey my Prius will do 180MPH.......
    Most would yell, show me pics, show me evidence, and so on.
    Same with a high priced cable.
    Talk is cheap
    That is why things are called out or questioned.
  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
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    hey Tony

    I found the Satori's for like $470 and i snagged them.

    I like them with my 705's & 703's & Omega Full range speakers that are 95dlb..I use the dared tube preamp & Dared tube Mono-blocks (9 wpc) with the Omega's and used the Satoris cables with them at LSAF also.

    But with the CRS's they changed the sound enough that I preferred the Black-Mesh 12's with the cRS's and maybe because it was just what I was use to :p Its hard for me to explain myself in terms others can understand about what changed...the Bass and mid's were kind of tight & flat maybe ... because of the Erse Super Q inductor's Dave put in my crossovers the bass in my CRS needs no sub!

    As we like to say it's my ears and that is all that matters ;) I don't need science to explain it to me.

    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited December 2016
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    BlueFox wrote: »
    Shunyata* power conditioners are designed to not limit current, and will improve the sound of your amps.
    For me they* have NO CHOICE but to improve what ever I want them to power/protect. Their* entry level model is $ed well above competitor's best.

    I'm PLEASED for the past 12 months my APC* has kept my Outlaw 975 out of repair. Further, I enjoy better picture & SQ because it* powers/protects my TV & all low draw gear.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    voltz wrote: »
    I found the Satori's for like $470 and i snagged them...

    ...I preferred the Black-Mesh 12's...
    I $ed these cables as if I was going to upgrade my L&R cabling... ...about $5K!!!


    Guys...
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,802
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    K_M wrote: »
    Most would yell, show me pics, show me evidence, and so on.
    Same with a high priced cable.
    Talk is cheap
    That is why things are called out or questioned.

    Still waiting for you to answer the questions I asked about your speaker engineer husband and for you to provide pics of his efforts because as you stated, "Talk is cheap."

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
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    gp4jesus wrote: »
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Shunyata* power conditioners are designed to not limit current, and will improve the sound of your amps.
    For me they* have NO CHOICE but to improve what ever I want them to power/protect. Their* entry level model is $ed well above competitor's best.

    I'm PLEASED for the past 12 months my APC* has kept my Outlaw 975 out of repair. Further, I enjoy better picture & SQ because it* powers/protects my TV & all low draw gear.

    What's with all the asterisks?
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,906
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    voltz wrote: »
    hey Tony

    I found the Satori's for like $470 and i snagged them.

    I like them with my 705's & 703's & Omega Full range speakers that are 95dlb..I use the dared tube preamp & Dared tube Mono-blocks (9 wpc) with the Omega's and used the Satoris cables with them at LSAF also.

    But with the CRS's they changed the sound enough that I preferred the Black-Mesh 12's with the cRS's and maybe because it was just what I was use to :p Its hard for me to explain myself in terms others can understand about what changed...the Bass and mid's were kind of tight & flat maybe ... because of the Erse Super Q inductor's Dave put in my crossovers the bass in my CRS needs no sub!

    As we like to say it's my ears and that is all that matters ;) I don't need science to explain it to me.

    I hear ya bro. I figured the AP cables should match up well with any SDA speaker. I always like to experiment a bit to get an idea of what brands work well with others. Glad to see both brands found a place in your home.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • sgmsmg
    sgmsmg Posts: 542
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    Thought I would follow up with how my setup has progressed.
    Ditched the Monster RCA's for relatively inexpensive used Audioquest Columbia XLR cables. Had a set going from my P5 to the A21 and a set going from my Oppo 105 to the P5. There was an immediate and welcomed difference. Like everyone has mentioned in numerous postings there was less noise so I could definitely hear more details and everything sounded cleaner.

    After a few weeks a local deal came up for a used set of Audioquest CastleRock speaker cables. My plan was to get a set of AZ Satori's but I couldn't find any used in the right length so I got the AQ cables instead. There was again a noticeable difference for the better with these added to my setup (for reference I was previously using some 12 gauge Sewell cable). I would say a big change was the bass was definitely tightened up and again everything just sounded cleaner.

    The most recent change to my setup is the addition of a PS Audio P5 to clean up incoming AC power. This too just enhanced everything although the biggest improvement I noticed was my 12 year old Sony Plasma looks extremely better connected to to the PS Audio compared to the Panamax 5300 I had.

    Coming soon will be the Fortress Plus crossovers for my LSi15's. I know I could have put the money towards new/better speakers but I felt this was a better option then trying to sell the LSi15's and also figuring out what to replace them with.

    Eventually I will replace the Pangea AC9SE/14SE power cords with something better.

    2 Channel
    Pre:Bryston BP173
    Amp:Bryston 14B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton Reference
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Bryston BDA-3, Bryston BDP-3, Bryston BCD-3, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 Speaker, Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 XLR, AQ Diamond USB/HDMI
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Sony XBR65Z9F

    Home Theater
    Pre: Anthem AVM90/JBL SDP-55
    Amps: Parasound A31, A51x2
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 707 (FL/FR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), LSiM 703 (SL/SR/SBL/SBR), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB16 x 4
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: AQ Meteor/Rocket 88, AQ Niagara/Sky
    Power: Torus AVR20, Shunyata Denali, Shunyata Delta, Cullen, PangeaAC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR85Z9G
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
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    I highly recommend the crossover upgrade for the lsi15, I did it and it was a dramatic improvement. I sold them and bought Lsim705, let's just say I regret that decision.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • sgmsmg
    sgmsmg Posts: 542
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    mikeyb128 wrote: »
    I highly recommend the crossover upgrade for the lsi15, I did it and it was a dramatic improvement. I sold them and bought Lsim705, let's just say I regret that decision.

    Thanks for posting this. makes me feel better about my decision. I already purchased the crossovers and just waiting for them to be built. For a while I was toying with getting 705's instead. I figured the crossovers will at least be a change without the hassle of selling/buying new speakers. I like the LSi15's so I hope this will only make them better. They already have the db woofer upgrade. Thanks again for the feedback!
    2 Channel
    Pre:Bryston BP173
    Amp:Bryston 14B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton Reference
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Bryston BDA-3, Bryston BDP-3, Bryston BCD-3, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 Speaker, Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 XLR, AQ Diamond USB/HDMI
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Sony XBR65Z9F

    Home Theater
    Pre: Anthem AVM90/JBL SDP-55
    Amps: Parasound A31, A51x2
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 707 (FL/FR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), LSiM 703 (SL/SR/SBL/SBR), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB16 x 4
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: AQ Meteor/Rocket 88, AQ Niagara/Sky
    Power: Torus AVR20, Shunyata Denali, Shunyata Delta, Cullen, PangeaAC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR85Z9G
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    Options
    BlueFox wrote: »
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Shunyata* power conditioners are designed to not limit current, and will improve the sound of your amps.
    For me they* have NO CHOICE but to improve what ever I want them to power/protect. Their* entry level model is $ed well above competitor's best.

    I'm PLEASED for the past 12 months my APC* has kept my Outlaw 975 out of repair. Further, I enjoy better picture & SQ because it* powers/protects my TV & all low draw gear.

    What's with all the asterisks?
    Referencing power condioners

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    Options
    sgmsmg wrote: »
    mikeyb128 wrote: »
    I highly recommend the crossover upgrade for the lsi15, I did it and it was a dramatic improvement. I sold them and bought Lsim705, let's just say I regret that decision.

    Thanks for posting this. makes me feel better about my decision. I already purchased the crossovers and just waiting for them to be built. For a while I was toying with getting 705's instead. I figured the crossovers will at least be a change without the hassle of selling/buying new speakers. I like the LSi15's so I hope this will only make them better. They already have the db woofer upgrade. Thanks again for the feedback!

    I had the DB mod as well, those speakers were awesome when modded. I sold them to a friend and he won't sell them back. Lol... you will love them, mine took a painfully long time to break in and smooth out, so give it time before you evaluate them.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • sgmsmg
    sgmsmg Posts: 542
    Options
    mikeyb128 wrote: »

    I had the DB mod as well, those speakers were awesome when modded. I sold them to a friend and he won't sell them back. Lol... you will love them, mine took a painfully long time to break in and smooth out, so give it time before you evaluate them.

    Good to hear. Thanks for the heads up. That means the break in will take even longer for me. I only get maybe 10 hours or so of listening per week. What volume levels are needed for proper break in? I guess I could just leave it playing at a low value.
    2 Channel
    Pre:Bryston BP173
    Amp:Bryston 14B3
    Speakers: Golden Ear Triton Reference
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Bryston BDA-3, Bryston BDP-3, Bryston BCD-3, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 Speaker, Wireworld Gold Eclipse 7 XLR, AQ Diamond USB/HDMI
    Power: PS Audio P10 Regenerator, AC12, AC10 and AC5 Cables
    Display: Sony XBR65Z9F

    Home Theater
    Pre: Anthem AVM90/JBL SDP-55
    Amps: Parasound A31, A51x2
    Speakers: Polk LSiM 707 (FL/FR), Polk LSiM706 (Center), LSiM 703 (SL/SR/SBL/SBR), Polk 900-LS (Atmos)
    Subwoofers: SVS SB16 x 4
    Source: Oppo UDP-205, Apple TV, Amazon Fire
    Cables: AQ Meteor/Rocket 88, AQ Niagara/Sky
    Power: Torus AVR20, Shunyata Denali, Shunyata Delta, Cullen, PangeaAC9SE Cables
    Display: Sony XBR85Z9G