Sub Dilemma (HT) Have psw505

Funny as it is, I sold off almost all my HT gear last month because I had lost interest. Then during black Friday I really wanted to grab a bigger TV as my 50" was just too small for my liking. After doing some cost analysis of a 65"(or bigger) TV, I bought a BenQ 1080p projector and 120" screen for less than the cost of a 65" 4k panel.

Naturally I couldn't have the projector in my man cave without a basic audio setup. So I built a basic home theater setup with parts I had mostly sitting in the garage.

Yamaha rx-a840
Monitor 40's for the front
Monitor center
Fxia4 surrounds
Psw505 sub

For a pieced together setup, I am very happy with how it all performs, except for the bass category. The single psw505 just doesn't have the output required for real ht involvement. I Find the overall output lacking and also a lack of low-frequency feel in in your bones response. I do listen to music from time to time downstairs, not critically but for party type environments and I do not find output adequate in that situation either.

So I am at a crossroads, two options. Buy a second psw505 for 180 off Amazon. Unsure if this is going to get me where I want to be though as low frequency punch won't really improve. Obviously, output would gain significantly though for a minimal investment. Other option is to go with something like a pb-2000 or hsu vtf-3. This seems like the best performance option but I am all about price vs performance. Is the extra 600 or do spent on the svs or hsu worth it over another psw505? I can swing another 505 right now but would have to wait awhile before going the other way.

Thanks!
Zach
2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
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Comments

  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Don't bother with a second psw. Save your pennies for an svs or hsu. This is one of the very clear improvements you can make where the money is very well spent...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    The 2 Psw 505's will probably put out more mid-bass volume, 40 to 80 Hz than a single HSU or SVS. I don't think it will be that much, maybe a dB or so.

    No way the 505's will dig as low as either of the other subs. The HSU and SVS will get to 20Hz, the 505's maybe to about 25 Hz, on a really good day.

    That's the choice. Dig lower or play louder.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    rpf65 wrote: »
    The 2 Psw 505's will probably put out more mid-bass volume, 40 to 80 Hz than a single HSU or SVS. I don't think it will be that much, maybe a dB or so.

    No way the 505's will dig as low as either of the other subs. The HSU and SVS will get to 20Hz, the 505's maybe to about 25 Hz, on a really good day.

    That's the choice. Dig lower or play louder.

    Not true based on measurements or how two subs work. Adding a second sub will add about 3db boast, essentially doubling the volume.

    Here are ed mullen's measurements of the psw505:

    Frequency SPL THD
    20 Hz 65.5 dB 10-12% fluctuating
    22 Hz 68.0 dB 10-12% fluctuating
    25 Hz 76.0 dB 10.4%
    32 Hz 90.2 dB 10.5%
    40 Hz 101.5 dB 10.2 %
    50 Hz 104.1 dB 9.8%
    63 Hz 105.9 dB 10.1%
    80 Hz 103.8 dB 10.2%

    And here is a measurement of the hsu vtf-5:

    The VTF-3 MK5 HP was exceptionally flat from 18 Hz to 180 Hz tracking at +/- 5 dB across this range...tested the limits of the subwoofer at 32 Hz. It is generally understood that 10% THD+N is the threshold of audibility for distortion in the bass. In the case of the VTF-3 MK5 HP the speaker hit 126.5 dB while remaining under 10% THD+N.

    126db at 32hz!!!! That absolutely crushes the psw505. You would need a pint 8 psw for the same output! And the bass wil Ben much smoother, more controlled, and even across the frequency range.

    It's just not even close. Save ur pennies!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    Don't get another 505, pony up for the SVS, don't look back.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • Hey Zach, sorry to be a little of topic, I have the same subwoofer and similar AVR. Yamaha RX-A760. Are you able to control the subwoofer frequency(Hz) on the AVR? For some reason I can only control the Center, R/L front and rears.

    Is that normal? Still kind of new to all this.

    Thanks.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    VoodooGTS wrote: »
    Hey Zach, sorry to be a little of topic, I have the same subwoofer and similar AVR. Yamaha RX-A760. Are you able to control the subwoofer frequency(Hz) on the AVR? For some reason I can only control the Center, R/L front and rears.

    Is that normal? Still kind of new to all this.

    Thanks.

    When you set the other speakers crossover frequency, you are controlling the sub. E.g. if all your other speakers are set to small 80hz, then below 80hz is going to your sub, in addition to all of the .1 (lfe) frequencies.

    Some avrs will also give you the option to select a high-pass for the sub (as in everything above, say, 120hz will go to the mains and not the sub), but this is a much rarer option.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Thanks for explanation Rooftop59 really informative.

    One more question, sorry to butt in the topic. My AVR supports two SUB outs. If I connect two subs using LFE to the AVR Sub1 and Sub2, will the AVR (Yamaha RX-A760 recognize it and show up as a 5.2? Just curious to try to run two different subs since I have a extra one laying around from my old set up.

    Thanks!
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    edited December 2016
    Yes when it goes through the ypao setup, it will sense both subs and account for them. I can control the sub frequency on mine i think but let ypao handle it all.

    Thanks for the input on the sub situation, I knew in my gut saving and doing the HSU was the best option so that is what I'll do. The single 505 rumbles enough that I don't need an immediate upgrade anyhow

    Btw, I am so glad I got a projector. I got my BenQ ht2050 set up today, the picture is fantastic, really indiscernible from my 50" 1080p led tv. So much more immersive and fun to watch too, all for less than a grand! Unbeatable if you have the right conditions
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    VoodooGTS wrote: »
    Thanks for explanation Rooftop59 really informative.

    One more question, sorry to butt in the topic. My AVR supports two SUB outs. If I connect two subs using LFE to the AVR Sub1 and Sub2, will the AVR (Yamaha RX-A760 recognize it and show up as a 5.2? Just curious to try to run two different subs since I have a extra one laying around from my old set up.

    Thanks!

    We usually don't advise using 2 different subs. Both will have different speeds of attack and decay which will make the lower bass sound funky. If you use 2 subs, make them the same.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    tonyb wrote: »
    VoodooGTS wrote: »
    Thanks for explanation Rooftop59 really informative.

    One more question, sorry to butt in the topic. My AVR supports two SUB outs. If I connect two subs using LFE to the AVR Sub1 and Sub2, will the AVR (Yamaha RX-A760 recognize it and show up as a 5.2? Just curious to try to run two different subs since I have a extra one laying around from my old set up.

    Thanks!

    We usually don't advise using 2 different subs. Both will have different speeds of attack and decay which will make the lower bass sound funky. If you use 2 subs, make them the same.

    I would agree with Tony here, mainly because your AVR just has an internal splitter, so the same signal is getting send to both subs. If your avr has any SUB EQ (which i don't think it does) it will be applied to both subs, and the result will not be good. I think some really high end AVRs can run seperate eq on both subs, but that is rare.

    I will tell you what you can do with that sub depending on it connection options. I currently have a nice musical little sub that has speaker line level ins and outs and a high pass of 80hz, so I run my center channel through that sub, and set the center to full range. It sounds awesome! I have done this with two different setups, and it greatly enhances the movie watching experience. It really is true that most movie soundtracks come through the center channel, and that includes lots of pounding action in that kind of movie. Many scenes in the Dark Knight have that little sub pounding, and it really helps anchor the dialogue to the screen.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Hey Rooftop,

    So rather running my center channel (Polk CS10) to my Center AVR I should run it to my sub (PSW505) line out and set the subwoofer dial to 80hz?

    So does that mean my center channel does both vocal and bass?

    Thanks.
    Sounds interesting to try.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    VoodooGTS wrote: »
    Thanks for explanation Rooftop59 really informative.

    One more question, sorry to butt in the topic. My AVR supports two SUB outs. If I connect two subs using LFE to the AVR Sub1 and Sub2, will the AVR (Yamaha RX-A760 recognize it and show up as a 5.2? Just curious to try to run two different subs since I have a extra one laying around from my old set up.

    Thanks!

    We usually don't advise using 2 different subs. Both will have different speeds of attack and decay which will make the lower bass sound funky. If you use 2 subs, make them the same.

    I would agree with Tony here, mainly because your AVR just has an internal splitter, so the same signal is getting send to both subs. If your avr has any SUB EQ (which i don't think it does) it will be applied to both subs, and the result will not be good. I think some really high end AVRs can run seperate eq on both subs, but that is rare.

    I will tell you what you can do with that sub depending on it connection options. I currently have a nice musical little sub that has speaker line level ins and outs and a high pass of 80hz, so I run my center channel through that sub, and set the center to full range. It sounds awesome! I have done this with two different setups, and it greatly enhances the movie watching experience. It really is true that most movie soundtracks come through the center channel, and that includes lots of pounding action in that kind of movie. Many scenes in the Dark Knight have that little sub pounding, and it really helps anchor the dialogue to the screen.

  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    VoodooGTS wrote: »
    Hey Rooftop,

    So rather running my center channel (Polk CS10) to my Center AVR I should run it to my sub (PSW505) line out and set the subwoofer dial to 80hz?

    So does that mean my center channel does both vocal and bass?

    Thanks.
    Sounds interesting to try.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    VoodooGTS wrote: »
    Thanks for explanation Rooftop59 really informative.

    One more question, sorry to butt in the topic. My AVR supports two SUB outs. If I connect two subs using LFE to the AVR Sub1 and Sub2, will the AVR (Yamaha RX-A760 recognize it and show up as a 5.2? Just curious to try to run two different subs since I have a extra one laying around from my old set up.

    Thanks!

    We usually don't advise using 2 different subs. Both will have different speeds of attack and decay which will make the lower bass sound funky. If you use 2 subs, make them the same.

    I would agree with Tony here, mainly because your AVR just has an internal splitter, so the same signal is getting send to both subs. If your avr has any SUB EQ (which i don't think it does) it will be applied to both subs, and the result will not be good. I think some really high end AVRs can run seperate eq on both subs, but that is rare.

    I will tell you what you can do with that sub depending on it connection options. I currently have a nice musical little sub that has speaker line level ins and outs and a high pass of 80hz, so I run my center channel through that sub, and set the center to full range. It sounds awesome! I have done this with two different setups, and it greatly enhances the movie watching experience. It really is true that most movie soundtracks come through the center channel, and that includes lots of pounding action in that kind of movie. Many scenes in the Dark Knight have that little sub pounding, and it really helps anchor the dialogue to the screen.

    Speaker cable from avr to sub input (doesn't matter rather its right or left on sub, just be consistent). Speaker cable out of sub outputs to center channel.

    The sub probably doesn't have a high pass filter, so just set the crossover to whatever sounds best, probably between 60-80 hz.

    Also, make sure center is set to large in the avr.

    Now the sub and center in combination will handle vocals and all the explosions and special effects that are sent through the center channel.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Gotcha, will give this a try and see how it performs.

    Thanks.
  • @rooftop59 I forgot to ask when I do this set I am not using coax cable thats form the AVR to subwoofer correct?

    Thanks.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    I am assuming that you are running one coax out from the sub preout to one sub. This second sub has not coax, just speaker cable coming in it from the center channel output, and then into the center channel
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • I get one your saying now when running two subs. Okay I will give this a try.

    Thanks.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    I just purchased one as a Christmas gift to myself. I couldn't pass up the price and I'm finally replacing my broken Boston sub. :)
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    cfrizz wrote: »
    I just purchased one as a Christmas gift to myself. I couldn't pass up the price and I'm finally replacing my broken Boston sub. :)
    Nice!! Did you get the DSW 550 for $399. ?? That is one heck of a deal for a sub that
    will surprise the daylights out of you. No exaggeration.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited December 2016
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    Thanks for all the opinions again. I've thought long and hard and I am going to build a DIY soundgroup 15" ported sub kit. Dayton RF HO sub and BASH 500 watt amp. One at first, maybe a second later on ;)
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    cfrizz wrote: »

    Let us know how that sub is. My HSU works great, I was thinking of upgrading next year.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    mrloren wrote: »
    cfrizz wrote: »

    Let us know how that sub is. My HSU works great, I was thinking of upgrading next year.

    Which hsu do you currently have? Might not be an upgrade...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    edited December 2016
    Triple post wow!
    Post edited by stangman67 on
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    edited December 2016
    Triple post wow!
    Post edited by stangman67 on
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    Thanks for all the opinions again. I've thought long and hard and I am going to build one of these (at first, maybe 2 in the future ;)

    http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-subwoofers-1/15-cube/dayton15-cube-kit.html
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    stangman67 wrote: »
    Thanks for all the opinions again. I've thought long and hard and I am going to build one of these (at first, maybe 2 in the future ;)

    http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ported-subwoofers-1/15-cube/dayton15-cube-kit.html

    I would look carefully at the specs on that compared to the specs on a comparably priced HSU or SVS. I am all about saving money, but its actually very difficult at this point to beat those guys, even DIY. Its because 1. everything is designed to go together (box, driver, amp), and they both put some pretty serious DSP/EQ into their offerings (higher end for HSU). In order to match the low distortion AND low extension of those subs, you will and expensive external DSP/EQ. At that point you will spend as much or more than you would on this for instance: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3mk5HP.html

    Just something to think about...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    I did quite a bit of research. It was between the DIY kit and the VTF Mk5. It wasn;t really about the money. The HSU seems like a mighty deal at the price and I am sure it will outperform the DIY kit to some extent. The think I like about the DIY kit is it is a proven design (Martysub micro), has a quality Dayton driver (I have used dayton extensively in the past in car SQ setups). Really the deciding factor is the fun I am going to have putting it together and the satisfaction at the end. I am positive it will blow me away as the response graphs are fairly similar to that of the HSU sub.

    And saving a bit of a money in the process doesn't hurt anything either.
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    edited December 2016
    stangman67 wrote: »
    Really the deciding factor is the fun I am going to have putting it together and the satisfaction at the end. I am positive it will blow me away as the response graphs are fairly similar to that of the HSU sub.

    We if that's the case and you will save a little coin then more power to you. I am all about saving money, but at this point in my life with jobs and kids if the savings is pretty small and I am not getting much (or any) benefit from the build then I just can't justify it. But when I was at a different place in life my thoughts were different!

    Good luck and be sure to post pics when you are done!

    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    Let's hope real life gets in the way of you finding the time to build the sub. That happens more often than not and what you had planned never occurs.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2