Finally Got Us a Tube System!
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CGTIII
Posts: 1,028
Dem awdeeyoFilers keep jawin 'bout tube amps, so we got us one. YeeHaw!
2 peakers on front. 2 on ends. Iss allrownd sownd!
Bak sez Commodore 744A.
2 peakers on front. 2 on ends. Iss allrownd sownd!
Bak sez Commodore 744A.
Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.
Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
Thompson Adventures, Inc.
Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
Thompson Adventures, Inc.
Post edited by [Deleted User] on
Comments
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mmm I thought the brand name was "Commode" there for a minute.
There was a long line of rather generic, Japanese-made tabletop radios like that one. They're generally kind of meh, and some of them are so-called "AC-DC" models -- operating directly from the AC mains, with no power transformer. In such sets, the filaments of the tubes are all connected in series. The total filament voltage adds up to something close to 120 volts (if less, there's a power resistor someplace dissipatin' the rest).
The problem with no power transformer is no isolation from the AC power line! When the (nonpolarized) power plug is plugged in, there is a 50-50 chance that the chassis of the radio, and any other metal parts on the radio, are AT AC MAINS POTENTIAL (120 volts above ground). That's OK if you're wearin' your sneakers... but maybe not OK if you're barefoot, standin' on, say, a damp basement floor, and touchin' the radio with one hand and, say, a cold water pipe with the other. It's (no kidding around) an opportunity to be killed.
Two easy ways to tell if the radio has a "killer" chassis or not.
1. If there's a tube list on the back, look for tubes with odd (high) filament voltages -- any of the tube type numbers start with, e.g., 19, 35, or 50? If so... it is probably a "killer".
2. Take off the back and see if there is a large black power transformer. If not. "killer".
Here are some similar (tho' obviously not identical) radios, e.g.
images from www.radioshackcatalogs.com (1963, 64, and 65)
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Enjoyed the RS catalog images. From the mid-70's to mid-80's I knew their catalogs better than any salespeople I encountered. ;-)
Appreciate the deadliness warning too. Don't believe there's any exposed metal to contact other than the terminals on the back. The face and knobs are plastic or such. Cabinet is wood. Back is pressboard.
I'll check the tubes for those models when next at GF's. Saw no power supply -- just a capacitor of about an inch in diameter and 4+ inches long. Though it might bite, the unit will live in her den, which is carpeted, as is most of the house. She'll certainly never take the back off. She had even less knowledge of what she was seeing that I did, though her dad was a radio and TV repair tech until 50 years ago, which was part of the attraction.
Was impressed that it has a phono jack and external FM adapter jack of some sort as well as antenna connectors. Nice tone for voices on AM too. :-)Expect that there will be bumps in the road. Choose to not let them rattle you.
Polk - Monitor 10As, SDA 2Bs, LSi9s, White RTi4s, S4s, M3s, various centers.
Boston - CR7, CR6s, CR4s.
Subs - M&K V4, M&K VX-7B, JBL SUB150P, Jamo Sub 250, and others.
Thompson Adventures, Inc. -
be cautious of that phono input if you/she use(es) it (for the same reason as above)!
Most likely for ceramic cartridge (i.e., more or less line-level "AUX" input); you'll need a phono preamp to feed it from a MM cartridge.
Should be a fun radio!
Yes, the AM on radios like that is often quite acceptably sonorous
