Where can I find instructions on recapping Polk 7A's (4ohm tweeter)

tat

I don't want to use expensive caps, just the best type for the job. I pulled the crossovers and they look pretty cramped for working but I have some experience soldering successfully. I might consider sending them to somebody if that is an option. Thanks.

F1nut

Sonicap Gen I or Clarity ESA for caps at a minimum. It goes way up from there with Jupiter and Duelund being at the top. Mills or Mox for resistors with Path and Duelund at the top.

F1nut

Expensive caps are the best for the job. This forum is full of crossover mod info, just takes some searching.

tat

Thanks guys. I'm new here, I just finally figured out how to get to the thread I started so it'll take some time. I had heard rumours of a guy who sells a "kit" with all the parts, Im afraid I am going to leave out something. Do you just shotgun ALL the caps with equivelant value (proper polarity) and that's it?

F1nut

Crossover caps do not have polarity.

You're probably thinking about member, westmassguy.

pitdogg2

He may be referring to another seller on eBay that sell's kits. The kit is not good stuff by any means. If you are going to do for me it doesn't make sense to put electrolytic's back in the XO.

tat

Ok, well I have been reading and I thought somewhere it mentioned components in the old Polks that have polarity components and recommended switching them out, so i just added that in there. I was hoping the kit could include above mentioned brands but guess not. There a guy selling some here maybe thatll work, Im just not comfortable enough with the XO yet, much more at home with guitar amps etc.

tat

well I just picked up an Adcom 400 for $50. and it really upped the bass of the 7's compared to the Yamaha 120wpc.
I am getting curious to try some form of my AB763 guitar amp circuits for that tube enchantment. Dont suppose thats possible? I have the adcom going thru a Carvin pro audio amp primarily used for production.

tat

For posterity I wanted to say that I am not sure the Peerless are 4 ohm, but thats what they measure wired up (and the 6.5 = 8ohm). They are soldered so dont want to disconnect.

pitdogg2

tat wrote: »

For posterity I wanted to say that I am not sure the Peerless are 4 ohm, but thats what they measure wired up (and the 6.5 = 8ohm). They are soldered so dont want to disconnect.

I may be wrong but I do not think you can get a true reading that way. I would think your meter is also going to see all the other in the circuit it is connected to.

tat

indeed it will mess the reading up...e.g with my double tweeter CRS it reads 4ohm connected (probably with another 8ohm driver) and 8 ohm alone. The monitor doesnt have 2 tweets so it could be 4 ohm still but prolly not.

F1nut

You won't hurt anything desoldering the connections because Ivan is correct, you can't measure it connected.

tat

Yeah i actually knew that all along from wiring guitar speakers but for some reason i thought the crossover might isolate the tweeter from the other speakers. Then I figured the tweets on the SDA were wired together. I could easily unclip the SDA's but the 7's are soldered. That was a sloppy assumption for sure. Gotta admit I prefer the Peerless to the 1000's so I may be looking to get the RDO's if claim $ comes thru which it should cuz they packed then basted them hard. Checking XO first tho cuz I got some highend loss. Will try tweet from other speaker but sure itll be the same.

I went thru the whole SDA set-up routine via awesome literature:
http://vr3mods.com/LCSDAUpgrade.php

TNHNDYMAN

@tat sent you a pm

tat

F1nut wrote: »

You won't hurt anything desoldering the connections because Ivan is correct, you can't measure it connected.

Indeed but I always hesitate to hit an original solder joint unless its problematic. Just a habit since that can reduce value with some collectible amps believe it or not lol.