Polk SDA1

I just got a pair of the SDA1's and have would like to get some advise on the best way to set them up on my basement. The room size is about 10 x 20 with carpet.

I presently have a quad setup of B&W ZMF2002's and ZMF2004's hooked up to a Marantz MR1155. I would like to replace this setup with the SDA1's hooked up to a Kenwood KR-9600 that I got last weekend.

Is there a preference on how to lay the speakers out like distances, wall placement etc? I would just like to know so I can get the basement ready before I bring them down.

Looking forward to your guidance.
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Comments

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 9,844
    all that should be on the back of the speaker. SDA 1's encompass quite a few DIFFERENT speakers. pictures would help. They will need to be placed 4"- 8" off the wall, Parallel to the wall NOT toed in like other speakers. Most SDA1's will need a dedicated AMP no receiver will do them any justice.
  • befuddlebefuddle Posts: 126
    edited June 2016
    Polk recommends placing them at a minimal 3 feet from the side walls and 6 feet or more apart with the listening position being equal to or slightly more than space between them and with no large furniture along the side walls to listening position,and with them pointed parallel to and within a foot from the rear wall [further out reduces bass] This recommendation provides for the intended SDA effect to extend the soundstage beyond the outside of L/R of the spks in recordings that utilize a strong balance standard,
    And while they will work with lower powered amps as long as due diligence to volume is observed as not to introduce damaging distortion, It is however highly recommend to use at least 150watts of high current amplification to achieve their intended musical attributes,[ also SDA 1 A-B models must be used with a common ground amp and can not be altered for use with 2 mono amps]
    Post edited by befuddle on
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    These are the speakers I got ... They are presently in the garage until I know how to position them properly in the basement.
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @pitdogg2

    The KR-9600 is a 200W receiver ... Do You suggest that I change it with a bigger and dedicated AMP?

  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    edited June 2016
    @befuddle

    It sounds like my basement is not big enough for these speakers ... I really love how they sound but they might be way too much for my space ...

    The KR-9600 is a 200W receiver ... Do You suggest that I change it with a bigger and dedicated AMP?
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 9,844
    edited June 2016
    rt_calalo wrote: »
    @pitdogg2

    The KR-9600 is a 200W receiver ... Do You suggest that I change it with a bigger and dedicated AMP?

    not quite but close

    http://www.thevintageknob.org/kenwood-KR-9600.html

    Those are SDA1C very nice speakers. That receiver will make sound come out BUT will not do them justice by any means. I'm betting when you go to crank it the tweeters will pop off due to the poly-switches being toast and will seem as if the receiver is over driving the speakers but it won't be the case. You will need a high current amp to do them any justice. You will need a common ground amp unless you also scored the A-1 Interconnect. Did you get the regular Pin/Blade interconnect? If not you will not get all you can out of them they need and interconnect for the SDA affect.

    You also do not need to"ALTER" them to use with NON-COMMON ground BUT you do need the right equipment as in the A-1 inter-connect or build a dreadnought to be able to use either non-common ground or mono block amps. All Receivers are common ground. Some NON-COMMON ground amps you can strap the negatives together so it will be common ground some you absolutely CANNOT so you need to check with the manufacture's to be sure BEFORE you let the magic smoke out.
  • befuddlebefuddle Posts: 126
    edited June 2016
    They are the 1c model
    Couldn't say if you'd get the proper effect if you used the long wall,In my own situation I've got them on a 13' wide wall with furniture along the side walls and have never experienced the soundstage going beyond the spks.However they do sound good and exhibit a wide full sounding soundstage.I use 2 systems running 2 sets of spk wire.The HT amp with regular Acoustic Research 12g wire and use it only for tv and movies as it lacks the proper power push required for music.And use a 200watt stereo amp for music, switching between them with banana plugs at the spks
  • pkquatpkquat Posts: 558
    Those appear to be SDA 1C's. The interconnect cable should have a pin/blade connection. A picture of the back would help. This is a link to the manuals. polksda.com/manuals.shtml @pitdogg2 & @befuddle covered the placement, and it is included in the manual. I would say you can go to maybe 2 feet from a side wall with these if there is a heavy curtain or some heavy damping next to it. Depending on the listening position you can go down to 5 feet spacing. However they will sound better with the recommended setup and good open room.

    The main concern with that receiver is whether it is a common ground amplifier. There should be zero resistance between the ground (black terminals) for the left and right channels. That receiver has dual power supplies. It may have dual mono amplifiers. These are often not common ground and can damage the receiver if the speaker interconnect cable is connected.

    If it is common ground the receiver should have more than enough power. I ran mine with ease from a KR-6400 45WPC (BS!!). This is old wattage numbers. Its more like 100+ WPC today. The WPC numbers game may have changed between models, but at 160 WPC, regardless it should be fine. That said the sound improved with a 115 WPC Hafler DH-220 and a Parasound P5 Preamp. The imaging and musicality was better and the bass was a little tighter and richer. Moving up to a newer Parasound Model 2250 250WPC amp improved the imaging and musicality a little more. The bass has a little more subsonic impact. I have not heard that receiver, but I would guess separates would improve the imaging and musicality, and possibly the deep bass.
  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,821
    The KR-9600 is common ground so you can use it, however, I wouldn't crank it too much because the Darlington TA-200W power paks are very difficult to find replacements for if they blow.

    I run a 50 watt integrated tube amp, Yaqin MC-30L and it drives the speakers exceptionally well.
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's w/ RD0198-1's, Sonicap, Mills
    AI-1 Dreadnought
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 1C's stock
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    SDA 2's (side by side tweeters) stock
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @pitdogg2

    Thanks ... I do have the Interconnect Cable ... Any suggestion on what Amp will be a good fit?
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @befuddle

    So these speakers might not really be suited for my basement as there would really be not enough room ... The only place I can put it using the given setup is the long wall ... I am planning to use it for my Record Player.
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @michaeljhsda2

    Thank you Sir.
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @pkquat

    Thanks
  • boston1450boston1450 Posts: 5,908
    Parasound
    Randy in Maine
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  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,821
    edited June 2016
    Very good speakers btw, enjoy! Swapping out the tweeters with part # RD0194-1 will yield much better sound. Mention you're a club polk member and get free shipping. Last time I ordered the tweeters they were $48.00 each. There's a market for SL2000 tweeters so you'll be able to recoup some of the cost.
    Welcome to CP.
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's w/ RD0198-1's, Sonicap, Mills
    AI-1 Dreadnought
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 1C's stock
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    SDA 2's (side by side tweeters) stock
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,757
    The 1B is a 4-ohm nominal speaker. I ran my 1Bs off of a 120-watt JVC for about five or six years. I only had real problems at higher volume levels.

    The 1C is a 6-ohm nominal speaker. It's not like they need all that much for current. Any amp rated for 4-ohm loads will be FINE provided it's in good condition; which may not be the case given that the Kenny is a thousand years old. I would use low-resistance (large-gauge) speaker wires--but that should go without saying.

    The Polk-supplied SDA interconnect cable that allows for non-common-ground amplifiers is the AI-1. A-1 is a steak sauce.

    Don't get me started on the "old" 45-watt ratings versus the "new" 100-watt ratings.
  • boston1450boston1450 Posts: 5,908
    edited June 2016
    So is that IC cord Pin-Blade ? or Blade-Blade ?
    Randy in Maine
    CRS+ TL'd 198 tweets
    RTA15 TL'd198 tweets
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    Cs1000p - MIT speaker cables
    Pangea power cords
  • voltzvoltz Posts: 4,932
    edited June 2016
    the early SDA 1C's are blade/blade and I don't think they can use a A1 dreadnaught.

    but they have a different base then the one pictured so I thinking he has Pin/blade :)
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,757
    voltz wrote: »
    the early SDA 1C's are blade/blade and I don't think they can use a A1 dreadnaught.
    1. It's AI-1, not A-1.
    2. The early 1C and 2B needed a different interconnect socket, and a foot of wire to make them fully AI-1 compatible.

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/131691/2b-and-early-1c-ai-1-modifications#latest
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @Schurkey

    If the Kenny won't work I have an older amp --- a Biamp TC60, would this work?
  • pkquatpkquat Posts: 558
    edited June 2016
    At this time, I think the Kenny is the best bet. You can always upgrade later. Parasound is the most recommend for musicality, pairing well with polks, and price, but Emotiva, Adcom, NAD, Bryston are all good options. There are plenty of more expensive options of course. I am not very familiar with the Biamp, but it appears to be more of a PA style amp and lower wattage. Generally they do not sound as good in a home environment.

    There are always risks of failures with vintage gear. So far I have done well with my Hafler DH-220 and Kenwood KR-6400 with no failures, but I know others have failed and it could happen. I would like to give them a tuneup at some point to reduce the risk.

    I also saw that with the SDA 1C's the minimum spacing between speakers is listed as 4ft. Without knowing the room dimensions it is tough to say how they will sound, but they should do fine at lower levels in a smaller room.

    You can clean the rubber surrounds with Original Windex that contains ammonia. That will clean off the oxidation and give them the original black look.
  • michaeljhsda2michaeljhsda2 Posts: 1,821
    The Kenwood will sound fine, just don't go crazy with the volume. Is the IC socket, blade/blade or pin/blade?
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's w/ RD0198-1's, Sonicap, Mills
    AI-1 Dreadnought
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 1C's stock
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    SDA 2's (side by side tweeters) stock
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @michaeljhsda2

    Thank you Sir! The IC socket is Pin/Blade.
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    @pkquat

    Thank you Sir!!! ... I will clean them up tonight as I get home :)
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 9,844
    voltz wrote: »
    the early SDA 1C's are blade/blade and I don't think they can use a A1 dreadnaught.

    correct from what I understand, But were the blade/blade sockets on these used like the pin-blade sockets ? IIRC wasn't the early SDA2b in the same boat they used B-B socket but it was configured like a Pin-blade socket?

    somewhere in the back of my mind i remember one of our members pointing out serial number cut offs were the A1 dreadnaught could be used on certain serial number sequences.

  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,757
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    voltz wrote: »
    the early SDA 1C's are blade/blade and I don't think they can use a A1 dreadnaught.

    correct from what I understand, But were the blade/blade sockets on these used like the pin-blade sockets ? IIRC wasn't the early SDA2b in the same boat they used B-B socket but it was configured like a Pin-blade socket?

    somewhere in the back of my mind i remember one of our members pointing out serial number cut offs were the A1 dreadnaught could be used on certain serial number sequences.
    Schurkey wrote: »
  • boston1450boston1450 Posts: 5,908
    edited June 2016
    rt_calalo wrote: »
    @michaeljhsda2

    Thank you Sir! The IC socket is Pin/Blade.
    Here is some valuable information about SDA's that may help you. There is a area that discusses placement. Keep in mind there are lots of people even here that have problems with placement & what they power their speakers with. Dont sweat over little things overnight. The SDA1c speakers are a fine speaker. http://vr3mods.com/uploads/SDA_Handbook_2011_Rev2.pdf

    Randy in Maine
    CRS+ TL'd 198 tweets
    RTA15 TL'd198 tweets
    All TL upgrades by WMG
    Cs1000p - MIT speaker cables
    Pangea power cords
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 9,844
    edited June 2016
    thanks Schurkey...

    rt_calalo where are you located?
  • rt_calalort_calalo Posts: 13
    Location is NJ
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