audio system upgrade

hello guys, I'm going to upgrade an audio system in my camper unimog truck. the truck is ex-military truck and it had no audio. I have installed Blaupunkt Toronto 420 BT as a HU and 2 Blaupunkt GTx 542 DE 5.25-Inch 180-Watt Coaxial Speakers. That's all I had done with the audio. I got no much knowledge regarding the audio setup and need advice.

I plan to install an appropriate amp, subwoofer and tweeters. Pls advice on this setup

Answers

  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    Oh I forgot to mention that the upgrade is to be made inside of the truck cabin. 2 speakers are attached on the bottom part of 2 doors near the feet. The cabin is small, has got only 2 seats. The cabin is quite noisy though I did some on work on insulation
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,324
    Cool truck!
    What kind of sound quality are you looking for? Do you have a budget?

    Re: the advice, are you looking for component recommendations?

    What kind of insulating have you done? Acoustic mastic, like Dynamat or similar, helps with tinniness and noise to some degree, but you might opt for a two layer system since it's a small cab?

    You can probably easily get a small amp in there, maybe even a low profile sub if a regular one won't fit.

    If you're not looking for the absolute best in SQ, and have some space, maybe consider something like the Rockford Fosgate Punch P-300 10" or 12".
  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    thank u for your advice. I've used a Dynamat similar material with only one layer. This indeed decreased the noise level but still would wish for more. As the cabin is small think the medium sound quality would be fine if its possible to say so. Don't think the powerful staff would fit in there. There isn't much space for a regular sub anyway, so the slim designs would work. Just donno how to match the amp, tweeter and sub specs to the existing head unit and speakers' specs.
  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    By the way the truck model is U1300L
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,324
    edited May 2016
    yeah, that's a cool truck :) I remember when I first saw Uni's.

    @DSkip used to be big into car audio; he can probably offer you some advice here.
    I can't remember the rule of thumb for matching amps to speakers, but check this out.
    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lnf1b5h4Sn6/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_faq.html

    RE: the insulation layering, I've heard of some guys putting down Dynamat or similar first, and then following up with a heatshielding type layer from one of the bigbox hardware stores. I read some time ago that Dynamat does offer another insulating layer for use after the damping material goes down. I think one helps with the ringing in thin metal, and the other helps mimimize cabin noise and reflection. In your case, you're probably more just trying to isolate from road/mechanical noise?

    Just to get a sense of what's out there sub wise, maybe have a read over this link over at Crutchfield. I presume you may need something underseat for this application, or a thin sealed unit. Powered subs are pretty easy to work with, and it will let you get away with a more modest amp for your speakers.
    http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cchojwxcqCZ/g_51000/Powered-Subwoofers.html?&pg=1

    Regarding speakers, I personally, have had best results with component systems - the tweeter and mid/bass drivers are separated with an included crossover - as it gives better control, but if you've already sprung for speakers, they're probably fine.

    Consider getting baffles for them, to help protect against the elements?
    http://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/speaker_baffles.html
  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    oh, thank u very much. I'll check the links and follow your advice. thank u again
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,178
    Where are you located @gsmmog ?
    Living room

    Mains: SDA 2B Studio
    Lows: Velodyne CHT12
    Power: Marantz SR7000 Preouts to Yamaha AV34
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' Curved

    2 Channel/Bedroom

    *under construction*
    Polk TSI 200
    Power: Marantz PM235
    CDP: Technics SL-PD688
    TT: Pioneer PL510

    Noggin Rockin'

    Grado SR80e
    Harman Kardon CL
    Little dot 1+/GE JAN 5654w

    Closet of Dreams:

    Harman Kardon AVR130
    Yamaha HTR5590
    Paradigm Monitor 90
    Polk RTA11TL
    New Large Advents 25th Anniversary Edition
    Bravo V2/RCA Clear top Conn branded 12AU7

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
  • msgmsg Posts: 3,324
    gsmmog wrote: »
    oh, thank u very much. I'll check the links and follow your advice. thank u again
    You're welcome, man, anytime, hope you find some helpful info there, and welcome to the forum!
  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    I live in Mongolia. Ulaanbaatar
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 7,529
    gsmmog wrote: »
    I live in Mongolia. Ulaanbaatar

    bet its a long way between gas stations:)
  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    yeah. sometimes its long. but mostly from 50 to 200km
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,178
    Seems like it can get pretty hot in the summer time. Try and look for a Class D 4 channel for your speakers, the sound quality will be a LITTLE less but it won't over heat as easily and shut off.
    Living room

    Mains: SDA 2B Studio
    Lows: Velodyne CHT12
    Power: Marantz SR7000 Preouts to Yamaha AV34
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' Curved

    2 Channel/Bedroom

    *under construction*
    Polk TSI 200
    Power: Marantz PM235
    CDP: Technics SL-PD688
    TT: Pioneer PL510

    Noggin Rockin'

    Grado SR80e
    Harman Kardon CL
    Little dot 1+/GE JAN 5654w

    Closet of Dreams:

    Harman Kardon AVR130
    Yamaha HTR5590
    Paradigm Monitor 90
    Polk RTA11TL
    New Large Advents 25th Anniversary Edition
    Bravo V2/RCA Clear top Conn branded 12AU7

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    What does it mean Class D 4? pls explain me about the technical characteristics
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,178
    Not sure of specifics but they use internals that run a more digital sound. They are much more efficient than a class a or a/b amplifier, they run a lot cooler and less risk of thermal shutdown.

    I ran a class a/b 4 channel in the Arizona summer and I would get maybe 20 minutes before it would shut off. I even spliced a computer fan into it to cool the heat sinks but still would shut off.

    I would say anywhere that gets at least 100 should look into class D amps.
    Living room

    Mains: SDA 2B Studio
    Lows: Velodyne CHT12
    Power: Marantz SR7000 Preouts to Yamaha AV34
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' Curved

    2 Channel/Bedroom

    *under construction*
    Polk TSI 200
    Power: Marantz PM235
    CDP: Technics SL-PD688
    TT: Pioneer PL510

    Noggin Rockin'

    Grado SR80e
    Harman Kardon CL
    Little dot 1+/GE JAN 5654w

    Closet of Dreams:

    Harman Kardon AVR130
    Yamaha HTR5590
    Paradigm Monitor 90
    Polk RTA11TL
    New Large Advents 25th Anniversary Edition
    Bravo V2/RCA Clear top Conn branded 12AU7

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
  • gsmmoggsmmog Posts: 9
    that was a very helpful note. thank u cody. I'll remember that
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