Help! My interior lights and A/C lights are flashing with new amp and polk speakers, lights dead!

MMPolker

My rear exterior lights are out, the fuses are fine. blinkers work. My interior lights flicker to the bass thump at higher volume, and my ac unit is intermittently flashing on and off, but still works fine.

I connected every single wire correctly, except there was 1 wire that said "illumination" which i dont think matters because thats for the stereo to dim with other dimming lights.

Do i need to wire the black grounds to the head unit's chassis? Whats going on?

3 yellows connected together, 3 reds, 3 blacks.

45w rms x 4 alpine ktp-445u amplifier
22w rms kenwood dpx502bt
Polk mm651 speakers (4) 100w rms max 200

MMPolker

I swear to god I've been lied to by everybody. Everyone, professionals, told me I wouldn't need a capacitor. "It's too low to matter". Bogus answer.

MMPolker

MMPolker wrote: »

My rear exterior lights are out, the fuses are fine. blinkers work. My interior lights flicker to the bass thump at higher volume, and my ac unit is intermittently flashing on and off, but still works fine.

I connected every single wire correctly, except there was 1 wire that said "illumination" which i dont think matters because thats for the stereo to dim with other dimming lights.

Do i need to wire the black grounds to the head unit's chassis? Whats going on?

3 yellows connected together, 3 reds, 3 blacks.

45w rms x 4 alpine ktp-445u amplifier
22w rms kenwood dpx502bt
Polk mm651 speakers (4) 100w rms max 200

My best guess is that the hazard light connector has become faulty in some way, causing my rear lights to stop working, and I know this because when I disconnected it and went for a drive, my blinkers stopped working. I plugged it in and my blinkers started working again. Plugged it back in while the car was on btw.

MMPolker

Is anyone here???

Nightfall

Your lights dim when the bass hits because the amp is drawing more power than your alternator can provide, either because it's a low amperage alternator or its useful lifespan is coming to an end. A capacitor won't help much, you need a new and/or more powerful alternator

trj

Listen to Nightfall, he is guiding you to correct path. Capacitor won't do much if alternator is not able to supply to store in the capacitor.

But need for information too. What car? What kind of battery? How old is the battery? How is the wiring?
Grounded properly?
Are you sure you are not shorting onto something?
Plus, newer cars have everything computer controlled. You really do not want to even change the gauge of wire, it can cause havoc on the other components. How do I know? I retrofitted memory seats, autodim mirrors, auto headlights. And couldn't get it to work correctly because I was using slightly thicker gauge wires and wasn't twisting them enough.

I have had my fair share of auto sound nightmares, so now I just live with what the car comes stock. But I buy a car with upgraded sound system option than whatever is stock. I don't like tinkering with sound system in the car anymore. Its very rare that everything works perfectly. Plus with the new CAN BUS system, much of it cables are fiber optics. So I stay away from breaking them.

MMPolker

Nightfall wrote: »

Your lights dim when the bass hits because the amp is drawing more power than your alternator can provide, either because it's a low amperage alternator or its useful lifespan is coming to an end. A capacitor won't help much, you need a new and/or more powerful alternator

Yes sir you are quite correct as I didn't consider my alternator as a possibility, which I should have since I've known for the past year that my voltage regulator is out. My lights work again. It was my hazard button connector. It must be a little loose inside of it, because all my running lights now work.

dalylaleahthor

Agree with Nightfall that you need a higher amp alternator or a new alternator.