Loctite Henkel Power Grab for speaker magnets

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Comments

  • aprazer402
    aprazer402 Posts: 3,087
    Thanks, I've been known to over-think on occasion (many). :)
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    I would, but customs checks everything
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    edited December 2015
    Ken it's $5.00 for a 6oz tube.
    $3.58 plus sales tax for a 9-oz caulking-gun tube at Lowes when I bought it day before yesterday.

    nbrowser wrote: »
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
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    Contains one or more components listed on the Non-Domestic Substances List. All other
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    Components listed on the NDSL must be tracked by all Canadian Importers of Record as
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    Bingo...anyone wanna send me a couple of tubes? lol
    I have not looked at other brands, I just followed westmassguy's advice--but--if "no silicone" and "sticks to metal" are the major benefits of Loctite Power Grab All-Purpose construction adhesive, I bet you can find a similar product that is available in Canada. Either look at the USA Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for a construction adhesive you have available to you, or perhaps Canada has an equivalent to the MSDS that you can download from the manufacturer.

    When I was in the "construction adhesive" isle at Lowes, there was more than a dozen different products to choose from--four brand names, each with multiple products. Not all of them were suitable for metal (non-porous material), and I don't know about the silicone as I didn't research them.

    Another benefit of the Power Grab All-Purpose is the soap-and-water cleanup. I had a tube of Ace Hardware construction adhesive from a prior project. The tube says it requires acetone or mineral spirits to clean up.

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Schurkey, there probably are others. I found the Loctite, and it's available everywhere by me, so that's the one a recommend. Be careful with the generic hardware store brands, as most clear sealants/adhesives have silicone. That's how they can claim 35 year guarantee for outdoor use.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • The reason you want to avoid silicone is because as it cures it out gasses corrosive vapors that are harmful to metals and electrical connections. Double trouble in a sealed speaker cabinet.
    Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
    Polk SDA2btl highly modded
    Polk SDA 1C modded
    Polk CS350 LS x2
    Kimber 8TC
    Sony 55" Bravia
    Wish list SVS sub

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    The reason you want to avoid silicone is because as it cures it out gasses corrosive vapors that are harmful to metals and electrical connections. Double trouble in a sealed speaker cabinet.
    Yes, I understand that, and I used non-silicone adhesive based on that recommendation.

    OTOH, if allowed to cure outside the cabinet--as would certainly happen with adhesive on speaker driver magnets I think there is no "real" problem with silicone. Especially if the curing takes place at a somewhat higher temperature than the operating--or storage--temperature of the speaker cabinets. If the speaker drivers are never used or stored above 125 degrees F, cure the silicone at 130 or 140 degrees, and there's no problem with outgassing. I'll guess that there's nothing in the speaker driver that would be damaged by spending some time in the oven at 135 degrees.

    Treated properly, I just don't see the problem with silicone. Having said that, yes, I used non-silicone product.
  • I would never put my MWs in the oven for any reason, seems like a really bad idea.
    Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
    Polk SDA2btl highly modded
    Polk SDA 1C modded
    Polk CS350 LS x2
    Kimber 8TC
    Sony 55" Bravia
    Wish list SVS sub

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Without knowing the actual cure time you're just guessing. Who knows how long the RTV takes to completely off-gas?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Yep...
    Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
    Polk SDA2btl highly modded
    Polk SDA 1C modded
    Polk CS350 LS x2
    Kimber 8TC
    Sony 55" Bravia
    Wish list SVS sub

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    It appears Power Grab All Purpose is no longer available at Home Depot, it's been replaced by Power Grab Express. Does anyone have experience with the Express version?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    edited January 2016
    F1nut wrote: »
    It appears Power Grab All Purpose is no longer available at Home Depot, it's been replaced by Power Grab Express. Does anyone have experience with the Express version?

    No, but I just order the tubes online anyway Jesse.
    https://www.google.com/search?q=loctite+powergrab&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&ie=&oe=&rlz=&gws_rd=ssl#q=loctite+power+grab+tube+1589346
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Thanks David. I was looking local, but online appears to be it. I dare say Loctite has discontinued the All Purpose version. I'll call them tomorrow to see if there's any real difference that we need to be concerned about.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    That would suck. I'll have to start hoarding it now....
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    How much silicone is in a typical construction adhesive?
  • Home Depot has a bad habit of discontinuing products that perform and sell well for similar cheaper products. I have complained many times to their customer service desk about products disappearing.

    One example is Rust-Oleum spray paint. It was replaced by Krylon for about two years. Finally, the old reliable Rust-Oleum returned. Another product was QuikWood that was superb and easy to use; it was replaced by a cheaper JB Weld product. QuikWood is really good in repairing and paint matching on antique clocks, etc including speaker cabinets.

    I think that is why the Falcons have so many mediocre offensive/defensive linemen. Arthur Blank had the coaches use the same method in acquiring replacement players.
    Harry
    Marietta GA
    "Sometimes you have to look to the past to understand where you are going in the future"


    Harry / Marietta GA
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Ok, I just got off the phone with Loctite and the Power Grab All Purpose Clear has been discontinued. The replacement is the Express version, which dries white. According to the rep, it does not out gas, so still good for our purpose.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Home Depot has a bad habit of discontinuing products that perform and sell well for similar cheaper products. I have complained many times to their customer service desk about products disappearing.

    One example is Rust-Oleum spray paint. It was replaced by Krylon for about two years. Finally, the old reliable Rust-Oleum returned.

    Huh? Krylon is a far better product. It dries and cures faster plus it doesn't stink anywhere near as bad as Rust-Oleum.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited January 2016
    Can you use this stuff to seal the back of an old speaker cab that may have had some water damage and has some gapping? I have a set of old Nova 8 RatShakers and I'm trying to pull drivers and find two out of three cabs that are OK. But, unfortunately, two of the three have some separation of the back panel which kinda defeats the acoustic suspension design. I was wondering if I could apply a number of layers of this to form a permanent seal back there. Or is there something else I should be thinking about. (I have used a plastic wood fiber in the past to rebuild a damaged corner of a wood veneer cab with good results, but not sure if it would work here). Thanks!

    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, I just got off the phone with Loctite and the Power Grab All Purpose Clear has been discontinued. The replacement is the Express version, which dries white. According to the rep, it does not out gas, so still good for our purpose.
    I'll have to stock up, and use it strictly for magnet assemblies. As long as you don't snip the tip, it should have a long shelf life.
    Real shame, cuz it comes out very professional looking when dry.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    cnh wrote: »
    Can you use this stuff to seal the back of an old speaker cab that may have had some water damage and has some gapping? I have a set of old Nova 8 RatShakers and I'm trying to pull drivers and find two out of three cabs that are OK. But, unfortunately, two of the three have some separation of the back panel which kinda defeats the acoustic suspension design. I was wondering if I could apply a number of layers of this to form a permanent seal back there. Or is there something else I should be thinking about. (I have used a plastic wood fiber in the past to rebuild a damaged corner of a wood veneer cab with good results, but not sure if it would work here). Thanks!

    It will seal internally, but there are better products for external fill/cosmetic.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    cnh wrote: »
    Can you use this stuff to seal the back of an old speaker cab that may have had some water damage and has some gapping? I have a set of old Nova 8 RatShakers and I'm trying to pull drivers and find two out of three cabs that are OK. But, unfortunately, two of the three have some separation of the back panel which kinda defeats the acoustic suspension design. I was wondering if I could apply a number of layers of this to form a permanent seal back there. Or is there something else I should be thinking about. (I have used a plastic wood fiber in the past to rebuild a damaged corner of a wood veneer cab with good results, but not sure if it would work here). Thanks!

    It will seal internally, but there are better products for external fill/cosmetic.

    Thanks, Westmassguy!

    I think I'll use this on the inside and some wood-filler on the outside. That should pretty much take care of the seal. I believe I have a spare tube from a home improvement project that's never been used.
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • pavlograd
    pavlograd Posts: 25
    I decided to go ahead and use the 'Apoxie' product which is epoxy clay. I checked to make sure I could not hear/feel any rubbing of voice coils and put pieces on. I have to say that there was some visual variation noticeable (when looking straight down) of the amount of dark gray magnet protruding out past the rim of the top cover. Very little, but some - like maybe 1/32nd inch. I made some photos but have never posted photos before so I'll try.ac6juz9we9ik.jpg
    wfbwd5fy834v.jpg
  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,892
    edited March 2017
    The magnets always look off center to me. I think they might slap them together then bore them.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    The magnets always look off center to me. I think they might slap them together then bore them.

    They are magnetized after they are put together. There is size variances in the metal used for the magnets. It makes no difference as they are magnetized the same.