Question about installing spikes on SDA 2B Studio

Hello all, I just acquired a set of SDA 2B Studio (all black) and have been enjoying them immensely. They have bested all my other speakers of which I was quite fond of before these arrived. I've already ordered the RDO-194 tweeters and now I'm moving on to spiking them as they're currently resting on carpet.

The 2B Studios (and maybe others) have strips of mdf screwed to the bottom of the cabinet to form a riser of sorts.

-Should I install the spikes to the bottom of the strips, or remove them and install the spikes directly into the cabinets of the 2B?

-If I'm installing them directly into the cabinet, do I need to be careful when drilling the holes? Are there any crossover components near the bottom that I could risk drilling into?

-Should I seal the holes afterward?

Your help is appreciated. Thanks!

Comments

  • boston1450boston1450 Posts: 5,928
    edited September 2015
    Hopefully others will chime in.... I did mine on 1c's & it made the bass so much better. I put peice of tape on drill bit & made sure i didnt go to deep. 1c's have the solid wood bottoms. So yours would be different for sure-like you stated above. Welcome to Club Polk Rex
    ::edit:: you gonna like those 194's
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,866
    edited September 2015
    for the MDF riser's they will not hold up well if used for the spikes, Get a set of tall spikes 2.5" or close you will have about the same height after the risers are removed as before then attach spikes to the base plate. I made another riser out of 2x4 solid walnut and then attached those to my set of speakers then attached the spikes to that solid wood.
  • My studio SDA-2Bs were spiked before I got them but the previous owner removed the original MDF base and made a new wider base out of solid oak and then mounted the spikes to that sturdier base. It has held up well in the time I've had them.
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  • smglbrthsmglbrth Posts: 1,075
    I have the SDA 2A's, same studio cabinet design. I put 2 inch spikes on mine, echoing the comment on taking the existing riser off. Also, if you do happen to go all the way through the cabinet accidentally you can seal it up pretty easily by taking the radiator off and getting to the inside.

    As far as brand/price you'll get lots of answers. Prices can range up to hundreds of dollars for a set. I got mine from Madisound, FWIW. Be careful moving them around with the spikes on however. Not only from possibly snapping them from the heavy cabinet but they can be sharp!
  • Rex81Rex81 Posts: 193
    edited September 2015
    Ah, good recommendations. Guess I'll just have to decide whether to build a bigger base, or go right into the bottom cabinet. Thanks guys!
  • deronb1deronb1 Posts: 4,297
    I removed the risers and put in 2" spikes. Works like a charm.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,866
    smglbrth wrote: »
    Also, if you do happen to go all the way through the cabinet accidentally you can seal it up pretty easily by taking the radiator off and getting to the inside.

    I do that anyway BIG washer on inside and bolt down to spike get them nice and tight, I also use blue thread lock just in case...

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,400
    Remove the riser, plug the 4 holes. Add 2" tall spikes, which will raise the speakers one inch higher than when the riser was mounted. Most spikes come with threaded inserts, which are usually 1/2" deep. Use the drill and tape method mentioned. Mount the spikes close to the corners for the best stability and appearance.
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  • Rex81Rex81 Posts: 193
    edited September 2015
    Thanks again, everyone. I pretty much did exactly as F1nut suggested above. I had some 2" spikes laying around from a set of speakers I purchased new some years ago. So I just went to Home Depot and picked up some hammer-in inserts. Removed the risers, filled holes with putty, Drilled the holes directly into the cabinet 1/2" deep so as not to go through the MDF all the way, hammered them in, screwed in the spikes and I'm done. Nice upgrade for very little money/effort.

    I will say that if I did it again, I might get the screw-in inserts rather than the hammer-in. I think the hammering puts a lot of force on the MDF and I could see it stressing at the corners. I tried to put the inserts far enough away to prevent this, but I still saw it. Seems like the screw-in type might prevent this. Oh well, all is good. Thanks again for the advice! Love these speakers!
  • gmcmangmcman Posts: 1,213
    I removed my stock risers and cut a solid piece of wood, I believe was poplar, and secured it to the factory locations. Then I installed spikes on all 4 corners.
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,632
    edited February 14
    Hate to bring up an old thread but figured better than starting another one. I currently sit maybe an inch below the tweeters with the riser attached as my couch is pretty low to the ground. I was thinking of getting 5/8 inch spikes to drop them a little so the tweeter is ear level. Bad idea and should I go with the 2 inch spikes?
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  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 14,892
    I usually prefer my ears level with the midrange drivers.
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  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,118
    Hate to bring up an old thread but figured better than starting another one. I currently sit maybe an inch below the tweeters with the riser attached as my couch is pretty low to the ground. I was thinking of getting 5/8 inch spikes to drop them a little so the tweeter is ear level. Bad idea and should I go with the 2 inch spikes?

    I wouldn't obsess about it. Dome tweeters have a relatively wide dispersion pattern, about 140-160 degrees, and fairly uniform. If they didn't, they wouldn't be SDA friendly.
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  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 1,632
    Hate to bring up an old thread but figured better than starting another one. I currently sit maybe an inch below the tweeters with the riser attached as my couch is pretty low to the ground. I was thinking of getting 5/8 inch spikes to drop them a little so the tweeter is ear level. Bad idea and should I go with the 2 inch spikes?

    I wouldn't obsess about it. Dome tweeters have a relatively wide dispersion pattern, about 140-160 degrees, and fairly uniform. If they didn't, they wouldn't be SDA friendly.

    Awesome, thanks buddy. Now to figure out how to get these risers off when my Spikes arrive in the mail. Ha!
    Living room

    Mains: Paradigm 90P
    Lows: Velodyne CHT12, Pioneer SW-8Mk2
    Power: Marantz SR7000
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' Curved 4k

    2 Channel Den

    Mains: SDA2B Upgraded XOs and Binding Posts
    Pre: Denon PRA-1200
    Power: Adcom GFA-545
    TT: Pioneer PL510
    Tv: Samsung UHD 55' 4K

    Noggin Rockin'

    Phillips L2
    Grado SE80
    Harman Kardon CL
    Little dot 1+/GE JAN 5654w

    Closet of Dreams:

    Harman Kardon AVR130
    Yamaha HTR5590
    Polk RTA11TL
    Polk TSI200s
    New Large Advents 25th Anniversary Edition
    Bravo V2/RCA Clear top Conn branded 12AU7
    Yamaha AV-34

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
    "Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
    "Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,866
    If they are studio there will be four screws holding them on, at least on mine that is how they were attached.
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 1,541
    DSkip wrote: »
    I usually prefer my ears level with the midrange drivers.

    With “conventional” speakers I would agree. But with the way my Salk transmission line speakers are arranged in the MTM design, it sounds great with my ears it ribbon level
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