Monitor 10A speakers, mine at last!

13

Comments

  • Well I finally got some recapped crossovers in my Monitor 10A's and they have definitely improved. More detail and better separation. Me likie!
    Stereo
    Home - Sansui SR-4050c, Sony PS-5500, Kyocera DA-610, Pioneer SA-1000, Monitor 10A
    Work - Marantz 6100, Alternative Acoustics preamp, Oppo BDP-83, Pioneer Elite VSX-53, Def Tech SM350, Klipsch KG2

    HT - Mitsubishi HC6500, 106" screen, Panasonic 50" Plasma, Oppo BDP-103, Toshiba A35, Panasonic LX-1000U, , DirecTV H21-100, PS3, Pioneer Elite SC-85, Def Tech; SM 450, CLR 2002, BP2X, Klipsch KSB1.1 (Atmos), Pro Sub 100, Polk PSW125

    Living Room - Mitsubishi FD630, 92" screen, Samsung 40" LCD, Panasonic DMP-BT330,
    DirecTV HR24-200, Yamaha Aventage RX-A1030, Polk; CS1, RC80i (4), Klipsch Sub10
  • Hello all,
    Dynamat came today so I removed the woofers and passive radiators and applied a layer to the cages. While I had the box open I rearranged the stuffing so that it is all above the radiators. Every step makes these babies sound better and better. B)
    Stereo
    Home - Sansui SR-4050c, Sony PS-5500, Kyocera DA-610, Pioneer SA-1000, Monitor 10A
    Work - Marantz 6100, Alternative Acoustics preamp, Oppo BDP-83, Pioneer Elite VSX-53, Def Tech SM350, Klipsch KG2

    HT - Mitsubishi HC6500, 106" screen, Panasonic 50" Plasma, Oppo BDP-103, Toshiba A35, Panasonic LX-1000U, , DirecTV H21-100, PS3, Pioneer Elite SC-85, Def Tech; SM 450, CLR 2002, BP2X, Klipsch KSB1.1 (Atmos), Pro Sub 100, Polk PSW125

    Living Room - Mitsubishi FD630, 92" screen, Samsung 40" LCD, Panasonic DMP-BT330,
    DirecTV HR24-200, Yamaha Aventage RX-A1030, Polk; CS1, RC80i (4), Klipsch Sub10
  • solarrdadd
    solarrdadd Posts: 62
    edited February 2017
    hey guzman, finally did it, got both my 10A & 5A monitor crossovers redone. they looked beautiful and man do they sound great. I didn't think I would hear such beautiful sound from these speakers, but, Lordy do they sound something special. I mean, they always sounded good, but now, I'm just shocked!

    it's all true, better separation, much more detail in the midrange, deeper more destructive intentions on the bass and those Peerless Tweeters sing like crazy! I have the 10's as L & R fronts and a single 5 as a center in my bedroom 5.1.2

    I got just about everything done, new caps, resistors, binding posts & wiring. i'll throw up a shot of the old crossovers and the new ones. my 5A's are dated 1980, I love it. best part of it all, those old assed drivers still seem to work perfectly and sound amazing as in even better than ever. I can only imagine that these might either be as close as factory new or possibly, a tad better.

    I'm very glad I had them done. it was well within the price range I wanted to spend for a first time ever having something like this done. I'm glad I had it done. it may not have been the top shelf of components used, but, I'm very happy with the results. dare I say, very, very happy! the person who did the work was very good with communicating with me. the total turnaround time was less than 2 weeks from shipping them out to receiving them back. he had speakers for every type he upgraded so he could put the crossovers in them for testing before shipping them out to me and that was nice.

    I can only imagine how they will sound after I get some serious burn in time on the crossovers. I must say, I was blown away at how good the 5A sounded as the center channel, they sounded different but, for the better. the dialogue sounded so nice from that 5A center. another thing, all of them sounded a bit louder too, perhaps that was the clarity of the new components I'm not sure, but they all sound great. 2 channel music sounds so damn good in the bedroom now. I even got a nice new 4 level a/v rack for the components as a part of my upgrade.
    55" Sony SXRD KDS-A552000 1080P Rear Projection
    PS3 & XBOX 360, iPhone 6+ @ 128gb & iPad 4 @ 64gb, appletv hdmi,
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    Marantz AV7702MKII pre-amp, NR1607 receiver
    Vintage Polk Audio SDA-2 & Monitor 10A/5A Peerless Tweeters, Axiom speakers, Pro-Ject Debut TT, Emotiva XSP-1, XPA-5, UPA-700,
    UPA-2, UPA-200 amps, XREF 12 DSP Sub, Ultra Sub 12
    NY GIANTS!
  • Glad you're liking the upgrade. It is totally worth it and takes them to the next level. The Dynamat tighens everything up even more and costs a fraction of the crossover upgrade. Come on man, don't stop now. ;)
    Stereo
    Home - Sansui SR-4050c, Sony PS-5500, Kyocera DA-610, Pioneer SA-1000, Monitor 10A
    Work - Marantz 6100, Alternative Acoustics preamp, Oppo BDP-83, Pioneer Elite VSX-53, Def Tech SM350, Klipsch KG2

    HT - Mitsubishi HC6500, 106" screen, Panasonic 50" Plasma, Oppo BDP-103, Toshiba A35, Panasonic LX-1000U, , DirecTV H21-100, PS3, Pioneer Elite SC-85, Def Tech; SM 450, CLR 2002, BP2X, Klipsch KSB1.1 (Atmos), Pro Sub 100, Polk PSW125

    Living Room - Mitsubishi FD630, 92" screen, Samsung 40" LCD, Panasonic DMP-BT330,
    DirecTV HR24-200, Yamaha Aventage RX-A1030, Polk; CS1, RC80i (4), Klipsch Sub10
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Dear all, i am new to the forum. I just bought a pair of monitor 10A. i am not sure whether is it the peerless tweeter or the SL2000. The tweeter did not have and polk audio emblem on it or anywhere on the back, but it look like the same as bguzmanjr picts that he post.
    a2b81plqvbxv.jpg
    e4y3qhu9lw89.jpg
    1lr1waxn5635.jpg

    Also, i took out all the drivers and notice not all is MW6500. The other two is MW6502 and MW6519, but they all look the same.
    f158hf1658r3.jpg
    pf2817l7hm08.jpg

    Also i planning to do the mod on the crossover , but could not find much picts and information in other threads. Is the crossover of 10A and 10B the same?
    kw9g7lp2xc6g.jpg
    zfco8xromyvk.jpg

    Greatly appreciate if anyone could help to provide more information also in the steps on the modifications.

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,709
    6519? Are you sure about that? Regardless, you'll need to start looking for two 6500 drivers. Even though they all look the same they are far from it.

    You have Peerless tweeters, so Monitor 10A's, which have different crossovers than the B version.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,709
    Your crossovers have the following.

    Resistors:
    (1) 2.5 ohm 5 watt
    (1) 2.7 ohm 5 watt

    Caps:
    (2) 12uF
    (1) 34uF
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Thanks F1 for the quick response. Yes, i am sure it is 6519 (show in the 1st pict which the number is blank over by black marker) which i dont know why.

    So i am advisable to replaced the two drivers to 6500? because i hook up the 10A before i remove everything, it actually sound pretty good , though not as good as my SDA2B :)

    Since mine is the peerless, i would not required to upgrade the tweeter to RDO-194 or RD)-198 as mention by Voltz previously.

    And for the upgrade, i just need to do the recap on the crossover?
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Btw, i have search for the 6500 replacement, but it seems like its discontinued and the recommended replacement will be 6502. But 6502 is 4ohms instead of 8ohms. Will that make any different if i install 2 x 6502 on one speaker and 2 x 6500 on the other. Or is it better to get 2 x 6503 (8ohms) which is compatible with 6500 (8ohms)
  • lawdogg
    lawdogg Posts: 449
    edited March 2017
    Your crossovers are M10 originals (see http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/38755/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-more-all-models-except-sda#latest) which should be paired with MW6501 (8 ohm) or equivalent (see http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/154649/mw-6500-vs-mw-6501).

    Off the top of my head I'm not sure about the compatibility of the MW6502 or MW6519 but I'm sure some searching around will help.
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Thanks lawdogg for the info. MW6501 or equivalent means and model that is 8ohms? So i can either get a preowned MW6501, MW6500 or new MW6503?

    Just measured 6502 and 6519, both measured 4ohms. 6500 measure 8ohms. Guess i really need to get 2 more 6500 for the replacement.

    Anyone idea how much should i spend for a preowned 6500, so i can have a guide whether to order a preowned 6500 or a new 6503.
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    keck wrote: »
    Btw, i have search for the 6500 replacement, but it seems like its discontinued and the recommended replacement will be 6502. But 6502 is 4ohms instead of 8ohms. Will that make any different if i install 2 x 6502 on one speaker and 2 x 6500 on the other. Or is it better to get 2 x 6503 (8ohms) which is compatible with 6500 (8ohms)
    The early 10s has 6500s, so do a search on eBay for them. Don't spend more than $30-35.00 each for salvaged parts. Make sure the seller packs them properly, and will give a refund if they arrive with shifter magnets.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,478
    Westmassguys post should say shifted magnets. A well known problem with older Polk drivers.
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Thks guys. Have just ordered 2 x6500 from ebay.

    Btw, how can i know if the magnet shifted? Can i just only hook up the driver to the crossover to test it, instead of install everything back.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,478
    edited March 2017
    The driver will be locked up or very scratchy when you push in on it. If they are fine use this to glue up the magnets

    https://m.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Multipurpose-Adhesive/999916313?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-Paint-_-ConstructionAdhesives-_-999916313:LOCTITE&CAWELAID=&kpid=999916313&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1203&k_clickID=5a51dfe6-9ff8-4d3a-b7cd-53ec84969c83

    Do a search here using "powergrab" you should come up with plenty to get some ideas as where to use it on the back magnet.
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Thanks a lot.
    As for the crossover mod, all i need to do is just to replaced all the caps and resistor (from Sonicraft)?
    Since i and doing the mod, i am thinking i might as well replaced the binding post and all the cables.
    Anyone has got any advises on my proposal? If it worth the upgrade as it will cost me another $100-$150. Will the speaker sound drastically different after the mod?
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    These are what i needed for each crossover?
    Resistors:
    (1) 2.5 ohm 5 watt (mills)
    (1) 2.7 ohm 5 watt (mills, can i use 2.7ohms 10 watt instead)

    Caps:
    (2) 12uF (Sonicap)
    (1) 34uF (Sonicap)

    Wow, just the above cost around $170. I started to hesitated should i mod or should i just use a lower quality caps. :#
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Westmassguys post should say shifted magnets. A well known problem with older Polk drivers.

    I resemble that remark
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    keck wrote: »
    These are what i needed for each crossover?
    Resistors:
    (1) 2.5 ohm 5 watt (mills)
    (1) 2.7 ohm 5 watt (mills, can i use 2.7ohms 10 watt instead)

    Caps:
    (2) 12uF (Sonicap)
    (1) 34uF (Sonicap)

    Wow, just the above cost around $170. I started to hesitated should i mod or should i just use a lower quality caps. :#

    You can use a Dayton 33uf in place of the Sonicaps, but keep the Sonicaps in the High-Pass section. 10 or 12 watt Mills or Vishay/Mills from Sonic Craft will be fine.
    consider removing the Fuse Blocks as well.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Thanks a lot, West. Just to confirmed the cap in the high-pass section is the one in yellow colour shows on the pict.

    West, there is one thing i am not clear. You mention to removed the fuse block that is located at the back of the crossover. Do i need to replace it with any mill resistor, because i have went through the thread on Monitor 10s mod, some was recommending to replace the poly switch to mill resistor. Are they talking about the same things?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,709
    edited March 2017
    You either have a fuse or polyswitch, not both. You have a fuse. The problem is the lead wires coming off the fuse block are badly oxidized after 30 years. You can't see this until you remove the fuse block by drilling out the rivet.you'll also need to clip the fuse leads at the binding posts and then seal the 3 holes in the plate.

    The fuse has about 0.2 ohms of resistance, which you may wish the compensate for by increasing the high frequency resistor by the same amount. Yes, 0.2 ohms difference is audible.

    The yellow cap is a mylar and is in the high frequency circuit.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Got it, F1. So end of the day, i am going to removed the fuse block , then resolder the +ve wire from binding post straight to the board (bypass the fuse).

    I notice Dayton only have 33uf cap. Will it be ok with that?

    Thank you all. Understand this is not the crossover mod threads, but you guys still being so helpful. :D
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,709
    Correct. You might as well upgrade the binding posts while you're in there.

    It's within the original 10% tolerance. That may be ok with some folks, but I want it as close as possible, so either two 17uF caps or a 34uF.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,709
    Fuse block......just nasty.

    hhh2dikscnit.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Wow, the block is badly corroded.
    Thanks F1 for the info. i will probably go for 1 x 33uf.
    Do you have any recommendation on the wire and binding post replacement?
  • machone
    machone Posts: 1,471
    Cardas makes a nice line of binding posts
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  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Hi, F1. Previously, you mentioned the fuse has about 0.2 ohms of resistance, which i may wish to the compensate for by increasing the high frequency resistor by the same amount. Meaning that i will be replacing the 2.5ohms to 2.7ohms.

    tzax7pxvdrg7.jpg
    So components i need for ea crossover is:
    Resistors:
    2 x 2.7 ohm 10 watt (mills)

    Caps:
    2 x 12uF (Sonicap)
    1 x 33uF (Dayton)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,709
    That is correct.

    I'd still spend the extra for the 34uF though.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • keck
    keck Posts: 36
    Had done my one side of crossover. :) Thnks for the advised, F1 but i will just stick to Dayton caps for the time being.

    Still left wire routing. Left side is my original, Right side is the modded.
    ib4z21ect4uh.jpg

    Also had applied PowerGrab on all the MW6500 drivers.
    w7sjm20jx1fx.jpg
    ytsnbkt5jpib.jpg

    Am i still on the right path? :#