How To Remove Water Stains On Wood Venner?

Had a water leak in the house and some water dripped on top of one end cap of my 1C's. The wood is walnut veneer which has an oiled finish. What is the best way to go about removing the stains on an oiled veneer finish? Steel wool, sandpaper, just re-oil (I have some teak oil here)? Any advice would be appreciated before I start and potentially make it worse. thanks, don
fesqjmupn9je.jpg
Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
Tuner: Sansui TU-717
TT: Technics SL-MA1
Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
«1

Comments

  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,926
    edited August 2015
    those look to be extremely minor -- Howard's Restor-a-Finish followed by Feed-n-Was might be sufficient. A little very fine steel wool (0000 or so) can be your best friend on such projects.

    The canonical answer for water stains (white rings) is still, AFAIK, to use oxalic acid.

    EDIT:

    1) here's some tutorial info: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=286413

    2) having posted this, I just remembered/realized that there are wood finishing pros on this forum -- so take my advice with a big grain of salt! :-P
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,116
    @F1nut is the man on this.
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,640
    Oxalic acid and patience.

    @F1nut will be along shortly with full instructions as I am lazy.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,707
    Do not use Oxalic acid or Howard's stuff.

    Oxalic acid is used for removing dark/black stains caused by a reaction to the tannin in wood, this isn't your issue. Howard's, not in my shop.

    Scrub (with the grain) using a little lacquer thinner and 0000 steel wool. Wipe off with clean rags. This will remove the oil in the wood. You'll have to do both speakers as this will change the appearance caused by years of oxidation. You might have to do this a few times. Once the top is uniform in appearance again, re-oil the tops.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    Thank you F1. As far as an oil to use: is teak oil ok? Attached is an image of what I have on hand. The label says it contains "pure Chinese Tung oil" but lists no other ingredients. If not this, what is your recommendation. thanks
    npgt9wki8tiu.jpg
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,707
    I'd use a Danish oil such as Watco, but that will probably be ok.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    Found some Watco Rejuvenating Oil In the closet from a project last year. Will this work, or is it best to go ahead and get the Danish oil in dark walnut (I assume it has some type of pigment in it) and be done with it? I don't want to have to go back a redo anything. F1, thank you for your help.

    3vil41yl0ih0.jpg
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    This might sound stupid but.... since it's vinyl the water probably hasn't obsorbed but is "on top of the vinyl" steel wool might scratch up the finish. I had an ink stain on vinly and used mr. Clean "magic eraser" took ink right off with a few soft rubs. Try it before you damage the vinyl might just work great. Costs a buck or so and is in the grocery stores. You have nothing too loose.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    It's not vinyl, it's wood veneer.
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    stogie wrote: »
    Found some Watco Rejuvenating Oil In the closet from a project last year. Will this work, or is it best to go ahead and get the Danish oil in dark walnut (I assume it has some type of pigment in it) and be done with it? I don't want to have to go back a redo anything. F1, thank you for your help.

    3vil41yl0ih0.jpg

    That stuff is great on wood. Vinly not so sure. But on wood it is fantastic for cleaning up wood surfaces. I always keep it around and have used it many times but concerned about it on vinly surfaces.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,521
    Trust F1 on this one, the man knows his wood. No pun intended.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    The OP is talking about vinyl not wood. May be an important diff.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,640
    The OP is talking about vinyl not wood. May be an important diff.

    The picture the OP posted is most assuredly wood veneer not vinyl.

    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,116
    The OP is talking about vinyl not wood. May be an important diff.

    Don't think so??
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    vmaxer wrote: »
    The OP is talking about vinyl not wood. May be an important diff.

    Don't think so??

    My mistake (senior moment ) i stand corrected thought he was talking vinyl not wood veneer. In that case the watkins would be perfect with some 0000 wool and go with the grain..

    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,707
    stogie wrote: »
    Found some Watco Rejuvenating Oil In the closet from a project last year. Will this work, or is it best to go ahead and get the Danish oil in dark walnut (I assume it has some type of pigment in it) and be done with it? I don't want to have to go back a redo anything. F1, thank you for your help.

    3vil41yl0ih0.jpg

    Try it and if it's not dark enough get the walnut Danish oil. It won't be a problem using one on top of the other. You should do more than one coat anyway.

    IMPORTANT: when you're done with each application soak the rags in water, then lay them outside, flat on the ground to dry. You risk burning down your house otherwise.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,307
    F1nut wrote: »

    ...

    IMPORTANT: when you're done with each application soak the rags in water, then lay them outside, flat on the ground to dry. You risk burning down your house otherwise.

    what the... lol
    how does that happen?!? spontaneous combustion? or fumes to ignition source?

    I disabled signatures.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,707
    Yep, spontaneous combustion. Wasn't long ago I read about a house burning down because the owner left some of those oil soaked rags in the garage, which burst into flames. Last year one of the shops in the area burned down for the same reason and he knew better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,042
    edited August 2015
    We keep our kitchen rags in large totes at work. One day we smelled smoke, walked around looking for it. Saw smoke pouring out of one of the totes and dumped the lot into the grass outside and sprayed them down with a hose. Nobody knew why this happened, so it was because of the grease in them?

    We're lucky it happened during business hours.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,707
    Nightfall wrote: »
    We keep our kitchen rags in large totes at work. One day we smelled smoke, walked around looking for it. Saw smoke pouring out of one of the totes and dumped the lot into the grass outside and sprayed them down with a hose. Nobody knew why this happened, so it was because of the grease in them?

    We're lucky it happened during business hours.

    I'm not aware of kitchen grease having spontaneous combustion issues, but that's out of my field. Perhaps someone's hot sauce......LOL
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    Thanks for the info on cleaning the rags- I never knew.
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    As you see the dark water stain that was on my 2Bs is what Jesse and others were talking about. I went w/ Jesse's help the oxolic route and be very careful.The package is for doing a whole deck.What's needed is a paste type mixture and since water is in the mix be very careful because you can warp your top worse than the actual stain. In my case it worked and then after some minor sanding and tack cloth I used medium walnut stain and about 5 coats of Minwax poly clear.ymhkfzhuht6o.jpg
    yaci5dpg9kiodtc8.jpg
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    Before and after pics. The 0000 steel wool and lacquer thinner wasn't getting all the water stain out so I hit it with some 320 sand paper and that did the trick. Three coats of Watco Rejuvenating Oil and presto. It looked so good I went ahead and did the other speaker.3acb2m9pyu4z.jpg
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Nice work!
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,926
    We have a very old table with a badly watermarked top -- the good information (as opposed to my disinformation! :-P ) in this thread has led me to plan to tackle it when the weather cools down (and life quiets down some from its current, too-hectic pace).
  • Looks great Stogie! And thank you to F1nut for the info.
    HT: Marantz NR-1603, Oppo 981, Def Tech SM55, SVS PB-1000
    BR: iPad Mini, Audio Engine A5+
    2C: Parasound ZDAC V.2, Sony DA80ES, Sony XDR-F1HD, SVS Prime Tower, JSE .6 Infinite Slope
    Office: MBAir, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, JBL LSR-308
    Projects: Polk RTA12, Polk Monitor 7, Revox B225CD, BIC 3-TM
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,707
    Looks good...yeah, a light scuff sanding is needed at times, but I try to avoid it if at all possible.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,230
    Well done my friend. The end result looks great.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,521
    Nice save!
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2