Questions about my powered SDA-2a's....

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I'm wondering a few things, as I have never had a powered home unit- and definitely not Polk's/Marantz/Ashly gear....So first, here is what I have.

1. Marantz SR7300 Receiver w pre-outs
2. SDA-2A's [500wRMS @ 4ohm]
3. Ashly FET-500 [400wRMS @ 4ohm] (very quiet fan- someone must have modified)
*monster interconnect cable hooked-up to SDA's

My questions/observations:

[1.] Per volume # (i.e. Volume 4 on receiver) the speakers are louder on the receiver ONLY, versus being amplified. Even my wife noticed, now the receiver volume must be turned up higher to reach same 'loudness'. Not a big deal, but it does seem counter-intuitive, seeing as the juice is all the way up on the Amplifier.

[2.] It does seem that the SDA's are able to be pushed a bit harder before distorting now, but still.... it doesn't quite seem like 400wRMS per speaker 'loud'. It seems like the highs and low's could go further, but that the mid-ranges are working too hard.

[3.] I have tried tweaking the receiver, but for one I'm not familiar with Marantz, and two I don't really understand all of the settings. I have been utilizing the EQ in "stereo", which seems to be much better/louder than these other modes such as " Cinema II" and "virtual".

Does what I wrote seem logical and reasonable? Is it possible or likely that the crossovers need rebuilding in the speakers? Should I disconnect the 'interconnect' between SDA's? Any other advice on setting up the Marantz? Thanks

b2a92t5rz3z8.jpg

Comments

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,911
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    First you need to find out if that Ashley is a common ground amp. I'm not familiar with Ashley outside of I know it's a pro amp. Your receiver is common ground, that may explain some differences your hearing.

    Crossover upgrades are also possible seeing how old these are, but first....take the Ashley out of the mix, read the manual to the Marantz so you understand all the settings available to you and how to setup the inputs.
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    It didn't come with a manual, but I will try to find one.
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    I was told that the Ashley is common ground, by someone who has a similar setup.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,911
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    JNinja wrote: »
    I was told that the Ashley is common ground, by someone who has a similar setup.

    If so, then the Ashley may also need some updating inside. Have you tried a different interconnect cable also ? Most avr manuals can be had online, google her up.

    I would try setting the receiver in a direct mode, no processing, if the speakers sound better with just the receiver, I would call into question the Ashley, or the cable connecting the receiver and amp. If the speakers sound good to you on just the receiver, the speakers may not need the crossovers done just yet then.
    HT SYSTEM-
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    jo341q4q6uhc.png

    This excerpt is taken from the online manual I found.... Interestingly, "source direct" was what I stumbled upon that actually got the speakers/amp to start working. It seems it needs to be on in order for pre-outs to send signal to the amp.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,911
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    Shouldn't be that way, but as long as you have them working, it's all good. See what reading a manual can do ? Good luck to you and happy listening.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,885
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    You'll need to study the manual as AVR's have a lot of settings that effect the sound, including the calibration program.

    That said, a few things....

    AVR's are not the best choice for a 2 channel pre amp.
    Your speakers are set up completely wrong. You'll never get good sound with them being side to side.
    Cheap power strips have no business in an audio rig.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    tonyb wrote: »
    Shouldn't be that way, but as long as you have them working, it's all good. See what reading a manual can do ? Good luck to you and happy listening.

    I haven't actually gotten much out of the manual yet...I was just mentioning that when I first first hooking everything up, it was the "source direct" that finally allowed everything to function; and I happened to come across this part in the manual just now- but it doesn't help or change anything

    Thank you.
    F1nut wrote: »
    You'll need to study the manual as AVR's have a lot of settings that effect the sound, including the calibration program.

    That said, a few things....

    AVR's are not the best choice for a 2 channel pre amp.
    Your speakers are set up completely wrong. You'll never get good sound with them being side to side.
    Cheap power strips have no business in an audio rig.

    Ok. I tried finding a Pre-amp that had: (1) a remote controller (2) digital optical input, but had no luck. That's how I ended up with the Marantz AVR.

    My current house is 850sqft, and where they are is where they have to be for now....I do understand it isn't ideal, but I'm not so sure it's "completely wrong".

    Cheap power strips may have no place in an audio rig, but I'm not sure what to make of that....can you elaborate? Why is mine "cheap"? How much should one spend on a surge protector?

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,885
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    1. You didn't look hard enough ;)

    2. Make no mistake, it is completely wrong. For starters, the SDA magic cannot happen when the speakers are side by side. Then, you have combing issues, which will happen when any two speakers are side by side never mind SDA's. Etc., etc.

    3. It's a simple power strip, not designed for audio. It will restrict current, which in turn chokes the power supply in your AVR or power amp.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    So, today I got in the mw610 and replaced the frozen 6.5" driver. I already knew this driver was making a bad sound as I turned up the volume (I think the other speakers were moving it), but I didn't realize to the degree.

    After changing it out today, I noticed a HUGE difference in the stereo.

    I can now turn the volume up about 10 levels higher, and it is REALLY kicking out some low end now...
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    F1nut wrote: »
    1. You didn't look hard enough ;)

    2. Make no mistake, it is completely wrong. For starters, the SDA magic cannot happen when the speakers are side by side. Then, you have combing issues, which will happen when any two speakers are side by side never mind SDA's. Etc., etc.

    3. It's a simple power strip, not designed for audio. It will restrict current, which in turn chokes the power supply in your AVR or power amp.

    1a) In my price range, I scoured and could not find one. I would have preferred a pre-amp, as I have no need for radio.

    2a) I understand the dynamics, but again, I don't have a reasonable choice to accommodate the space needed at the moment. They sound very good, so opposed to just not owning speakers, or these speakers, (silly notion) because I don't have more room at the moment I have them as seen. They're setup the best they can be right now, so in the given context- probably not "completely wrong".

    3a) I can dig that- but again, what power strip or surge protector should I be looking for then? Price?
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Regardless, my question was to the loudness and distortion. Thanks for taking the time guys, but I guess that bad 6.5" was really making a sound made it seem like other drivers were pushing too hard.

    However, now the new driver, purchased from eBay functions- but it does seem to produce some 'cone noise'..I'm not exactly sure how to describe it, but the other speakers don't make it. It varies with volume, and it does sound a little like distortion. Not nearly as bad as with the 'bad one' it replaced, but still, it just doesn't sound as clear as the other 6.5"'s. It's a shame, as I paid $50 for it, and I don't want to just send it back, but may have to.

    Also, I can smell speaker/coil when I really push them now- is this normal? I also notice it out of my car 12" woofers which are ridiculously loud, but they just keep on pushing... Any thoughts on speaker smell? Common sense says I'm pushing too hard, but the Ashly is rated 400wpc and the speakers should take up to 500wRMS, unless I'm missing something?
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,911
    edited June 2015
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    JNinja wrote: »
    Regardless, my question was to the loudness and distortion. Thanks for taking the time guys, but I guess that bad 6.5" was really making a sound made it seem like other drivers were pushing too hard.

    However, now the new driver, purchased from eBay functions- but it does seem to produce some 'cone noise'..I'm not exactly sure how to describe it, but the other speakers don't make it. It varies with volume, and it does sound a little like distortion. Not nearly as bad as with the 'bad one' it replaced, but still, it just doesn't sound as clear as the other 6.5"'s. It's a shame, as I paid $50 for it, and I don't want to just send it back, but may have to.

    Also, I can smell speaker/coil when I really push them now- is this normal? I also notice it out of my car 12" woofers which are ridiculously loud, but they just keep on pushing... Any thoughts on speaker smell? Common sense says I'm pushing too hard, but the Ashly is rated 400wpc and the speakers should take up to 500wRMS, unless I'm missing something?

    You should listen to your "common sense". Your overheating the coils and you most likely with dump another driver. Back off that volume dial chief. There's more to it than just shoveling power to the speakers.
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Theoretically, and practically, how can speakers overheat while not being overpower (wattage), and with no noticeable distortion?

    Any input as to a sound system powercord? -mentioned by f1nut
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,664
    edited June 2015
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    JNinja wrote: »
    Theoretically, and practically, how can speakers overheat while not being overpower (wattage), and with no noticeable distortion?

    OH BOY...here goes while lets say you have 400wpc great now what you do not know is that you system may be trying toss out 650 watts at a specific frequency and yet it can't so your now clipping the signal that may have little distortion you hear ...that creates the so called heat. You need to back down or go find some Cerwin Vega's those Polks will not take abuse for long not like CV will.
    JNinja wrote: »
    Any input as to a sound system powercord? -mentioned by f1nut

    signal cable or pangea would fit you budget or buy some ends and make you own

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,911
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    Just because you have a 400 watt amp doesn't mean you can bury the volume dial....if that's what your indeed doing.

    The speakers are never going to sound right the way you have them set up, they are not made for that type of positioning. If that's all you can do, you may have to live with the sound, otherwise....some pro speakers may be up your alley.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,576
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    Here's my thing. I run my 1B's on a 165 wpc power amp. I "can" play them at ear splitting levels, to my ears, where I can not stay in the room with them. Never hear them clipping at all.

    So JNinja.....sounds like you are indeed clipping them. Which is not a good thing for the speakers or the amp. Plus it's not good for you hearing either.
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Thanks guys... my hearing is bent already...Marine Corps mortarman... but that is not my purpose. I sought to see the potential, and it is GREAT. Next, the "clipping light" on the Ashly amplifier (as it has been explained to me) is not being activated, and so I don't believe I have reached clipping. I am not quite "burying" the volume knob as I understand the term- I have seen "10" and the volume goes to "30" I believe, but starts at "-70". Anyways, thank you for the knowledge guys.
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    JNinja wrote: »
    Any input as to a sound system powercord? -mentioned by f1nut

    signal cable or pangea would fit you budget or buy some ends and make you own

    I'm a little confused...they appear to be cords that connect the Amp to the wall socket.... I thought I was looking for a power strip / surge protector for audio ?

  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
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    Get an SPL meter and get your hearing checked. Playing music well above 85db for long periods of time WILL take out your ears!
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,664
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    JNinja wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    signal cable or pangea would fit you budget or buy some ends and make you own

    I'm a little confused...they appear to be cords that connect the Amp to the wall socket.... I thought I was looking for a power strip / surge protector for audio ?

    My bad man there are plenty out there Google it up and find a nice one within your budget. I like most prefer my right to the wall nothing in between. I unplug in stormy weather.

  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    cnh wrote: »
    Get an SPL meter and get your hearing checked. Playing music well above 85db for long periods of time WILL take out your ears!

    I'll keep that in mind dude
  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,892
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    you can install sound level app on your phone.
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    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

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