Pioneer SA-500/TX-500 Project

2

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    edited May 2016
    Thanks Skip, <3 u 2 :D
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  • tonybtonyb Posts: 29,555
    Man, you guys have the patience of Saints, along with fantastic DIY skills. That looks too darn good Jess, excellent job.
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  • boston1450boston1450 Posts: 5,928
    Looks great. So-How does it sound when hooked to speakers ? :)
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    Sounds nice. I've got a pair of modded Pioneer 22's hooked up.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • msgmsg Posts: 4,263
    edited June 2016
    (nm; late to the party)
    Post edited by msg on
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    I decided I didn't like the tiered Pioneer emblem support, so I changed it to this, which I like a lot better. Not surprisingly, the sound quality didn't change.

    on7wkkpbj2y9.jpg




    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • footwedgefootwedge Posts: 475
    Guess I missed this thread until now. Love me some vintage pioneers. My '80 SX 880 is rocking my garage. You have some serious skills and she looks beautiful.
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  • xschopxschop Posts: 854
    Very Clean and classy look. I'm glad I found this area of forum to get some ideas. I acquired a Qx949 yesterday and want to install new LEDs and machine taller billet feet. Do all the old pioneer units have the same type fuse lamps? And where do we geta set?
  • RicardoRicardo Posts: 10,502
    Impressive work Jesse. Hats off.
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  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    xschop wrote: »
    Very Clean and classy look. I'm glad I found this area of forum to get some ideas. I acquired a Qx949 yesterday and want to install new LEDs and machine taller billet feet. Do all the old pioneer units have the same type fuse lamps? And where do we geta set?

    I'm not familiar with that piece. Are you sure it has fuse type lamps as some use the bayonet type.

    Regardless, you can contact Don at [email protected] for replacement LED versions. He'll know what goes in yours. He doesn't always answer emails right away, but he will get back to you.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 854
    Ok thanks F1. Ill send him request and tell him you sent me.
    On bracket shims you can start with oversize flat bar and mill/flycut to tolerance then bend in vice. The pic of that uJoint looks just like an old BMW steering shaft joint.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    You have the machines required to make such things as the "L" bracket, I don't. ;)

    That plastic coupling was a project saver. The standard coupling is a non-flexible brass tube, piece of junk. I tried a flexible metal coupling first, but the plastic version works better.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 854
    You can also weld the proper shim washer that are widely available to a lower steel bracket. Not as clean-looking, but no milling required.

    On a side note, what is the height of those stacked units?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    With the aftermarket feet, which are taller than the stock junk, the stack is just under 9" high.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 854
    That's the width of a 5jr. That would be a sweet looking combo...sounding as well I Imagine.
  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,026
    Looks great..awesome work!
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4,SDA 3.1TL, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
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  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,026
    edited February 2017
    What era is this stuff from?

    We have an old Pioneer a SX-780 receiver, think from about 1978-1980, sitting somewhere, and it is fairly similar looking.
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4,SDA 3.1TL, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-
    Epos-
    Infinity-
    Advent-

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    Circa 1969/1970.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 854
    F1, what kind/type wire do you use to solder between gold RCA pin and PCB?
    Thanks
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    I reused the stock wire.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 854
    Guess I should have asked what to replace with if upgrading those wires?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    Upgrading them would been a major PITA as they run all over the place in very tight quarters and most are wire wrap connections. However, I did upgrade the binding post wire because it was a joke.

    Are you looking to do your Yamaha? If so, you'll need to consider what gauge wire will fit before choosing the brand.

    Here's what the underside looks like.

    j0i79xmdbk54.jpg


    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • xschopxschop Posts: 854
    I plan on doing my classic Akai soon. First I might practice on the shop CD player. It has metal prong/housing the RCAs that's why I asked about wire. I have some 18g multistrand OFC that looks like the right diameter to solder in the pin and PCB.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    Right, I'm sure you'll do fine.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • corticocortico Posts: 405
    edited March 4
    F1nut wrote: »
    cnathu1zfrvf.jpg

    4eht5exkddti.jpg

    F1nut, would you mind sharing the source for the black fiber mounting plate? Would they cut to any soecifyed size?

    Great work on these units!

    Thank you
    "If it measures good and sounds bad, -- it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad, -- you've measured the wrong thing." Daniel Von Recklinghausen
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    There are any number of sources for black FR4 online. One place that will cut to size with limits is American Epoxy. They have a minimum order and charge for cutting. However, they are not all that careful about scratching it, so I can't really recommend them. If you have a buddy with a bandsaw or tile cutter talk to them as I'm pretty sure American Epoxy will not cut small pieces like I made.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • corticocortico Posts: 405
    Thank you for info, I want to to the same in a Model 1060 refurb, it certainly looks very clean.
    "If it measures good and sounds bad, -- it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad, -- you've measured the wrong thing." Daniel Von Recklinghausen
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    It really is best to cut it yourself. Remember to wear a good mask as you don't want to inhale the dust. The edges are a bit gray after cutting, so use a wide tip black marker on them. Another tip, use new drill bits for any holes you need to make.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    The .93 FR4 I use will not flex, but yes, absolutely use a backing board when drilling and clamp the FR4 down to it using padded clamps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,194
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Good...I ain't as dumb as I look lol. I have to drill thru sheetmetal sometimes at work and using even a piece of scrap 2x4 behind the thin metal helps prevent blow through and a messy hole. Simple solution...and cheap lumber like that is easy to get.

    No, you're pretty smart. B)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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