All the Polk SDA upgrades located in one place!

13»

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,671
    Yes, you will need a common ground amp. All SDA speakers require a common ground amp. However, the ones with the pin/blade SDA cable can use the AI-1 or Dreadnought, which will allow the use of a non-common ground amp. The 3.1TL's have the pin/blade cable, so if you get one of the isolation transformers mentioned you can use a non-common ground amp.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Wow! My head is swimming. I need some advice. I have a set of SDA-1A speakers. Serial No's 1920, 1921. I bought them Sept. 28, 1985, brand new. I have always loved them. As I have gotten older (62) I must admit that I listen to them more as part of my Multimedia Set Up. They are the Main Speakers for my Denon 7.1 DTS Surround Sound AVR.

    I have proudly shown everyone how fine the system sounded until 10 months ago. Then the Left Speaker developed a Popping Sound on extreme noises like Explosions and Car Crashes. It sounds like you are taking a 6 volt DC Battery and touching the Speaker Leads to it. Pop, Pop, reduce the volume level and it goes away.

    Now let me explain something. I am in transition here. So please, none of you vomit because I did not know better, and I do now. Since August 12, 2008, I have had them mounted 14 foot apart (Center to Center) Horizontally, without the Umbilical Cable attached (please look at attached picture).

    Now I have been surfing the internet and I came across this man named David Shirley. He has helped me a lot but he also has confused me. He specializes in rebuilding Bose 901's. But he seems to know a lot about Polk SDA's. Upon his definite sound of regret, for the sacrilege of what I had done to the some of the finest speakers in the world, I am taking the speakers off the wall and returning them to a standard floor position. That will happen this coming week. I am limited to 10-foot width (outside to outside measurement) on them because of the doorway. He said that would be fine.

    David Shirley advised me to check the Drivers and Tweeters (one at a time) by visual inspection and ohming them and upon doing that I did find a blown TL2000 tweeter. I have bought 4 each of the RDO-194-1's to replace all the tweeters, they were delivered today. He told me yesterday that I should have only bought two and I should leave the Dimensional Tweeters disconnected with the leads taped off. The explanation was that Polk had found them to be useless in achieving the goal they were after. Since joining last week I have been reading all of the posts on here and I find nothing about that subject. But either way, I am not upset because I liked the speakers the way they were 10 months ago. I just want to get rid of the Popping in the left speaker.

    So upon the Speakers being put back like they ought to be. Upon my replacement of the two main and / or two each dimensional Tweeters with the upgrades. I know because I have swapped speakers around that I will still have the Popping. Considering the enclosures still hold dynamic pressure for over 5 seconds, without moving. Considering that none of the drivers make noise as I move them gently back and forth and there is no visual damage to the passive radiators (I have never removed them from the enclosure).

    What do you gurus think I ought to look for next to try to find out why I have this popping noise? I would like a 1.2.3. checklist of actions to take. Is my channel going bad from the Receiver? Is the Speaker Crossover suspect? WTH? I am not an electronics guru as you guys are but I take instruction well and I have messed with other electronics a lot. I have the tools to do it. David Shirley mentioned this forum and he mentioned VR3 favorably. I just need some good advice. Thanks in advance. d5u4ea5infx1.jpg
    .

    jfggjtwrkyu5.jpg
  • David knows his Sda's and is topnotch in updating them. He has rebuilt two sets of crossovers for mine and countless others. It sounds as if you amp could be the problem. You could swap the speaker wires without the interconnect connected and see if the popping follows that channel.
    2 Channel
    Polk 1.2tl's Fully modded with dreadnought.2.3tl's and 3.1tl's
    McCormack DNA 0.5 Deluxe
    Dared SL 2000a
    Marantz HD-DAC 1
    Marantz UD 7007
    Pangea PC
    Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
    Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
    Home theater
    Onkyo RC360-B&W Cdm1nt x4 sold 2 to fund more 2 channel gear down to 2 :p Cdm Center Channel-Rel Strata iii sub
  • hauxonhauxon Posts: 17
    http://www.polkaudio.com/support/ does not show any results if I type in my speaker model or part numbers. Has Polk stopped supporting the SDA line?
  • agfrostagfrost Posts: 1,906
    hauxon, Polk offers (some) replacement drivers and replacement/upgrade tweeters for the SDA series. If you have a specific question about your SDAs, I'd recommend starting a new thread in the vintage speakers subforum. SDA knowledge and advice, at this point, is carried by the members of this forum--They'll be happy to help answering your question.
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Marantz DV-9500 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (Thanks Rich!) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • hauxonhauxon Posts: 17
    Well I was considering replacing the SL2000 tweeter in my SDA 2B with the RD0194-1for more rounded highs. I had previously seen them listed in the Polk support page.
  • hauxonhauxon Posts: 17
    I sent an email to Polk customer support on monday asking about RD0-198-1 tweeters. I've heard nothing from them yet. Are they usually slow to respond? Seems like a fairly simple question. Maybe connected to them shutting down the info page on vintage Polks and erasing vintage products from the support page? ...hopefully not...
  • vcwatkinsvcwatkins Posts: 1,592
    Calling always seems to work much better. Be sure to tell them you're a member here if getting a quote.
    Den: Rega RP6 (mods) * AT33PTGII * Jolida jd9 (mods) * Roon * Sonore microRendu (LPS-1) * WW Plat 7 * Chord QuteEX (Pardo) * Joule-Electra LA-100 iii * Sunfire Sig II * PSAudio p3 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2 (mods)
    Office Rip: Music Hall MMF-5.1se * Speed Box II * DL103r * Parks Budgie SUT * PS Audio NPC * Roon * Bryston bdp1 * Bryston bda1 * Dayens Ampino * PSA Dectet * MIT s3 * Hartley Reference Mini-Tower
    Beach Gameroom: MH mmf2.1 * Denon dl-110 * Belles Phono 20a * Sonos * Arcam rDac * Belles 20a * Pass Aleph 30 * PSAudio Dectet * MIT s3 * Revel m22
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 37,671
    CALL
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • hauxonhauxon Posts: 17
    Yes, I will call (from Iceland) if there's no reply early next week.
  • crashb4crashb4 Posts: 143
    RDO-194 tweets are currently back ordered. Placed my order early December and was told to expect them February or March.
    Rotel: RSP-1068, RMB-1075, RT-1080 RLC-1040.
    Oppo: DV-980H
    Polk: Monitor-10B, SDA-1A, SDA-SRS

    To know the road ahead, ask those coming back. --Chinese Proverb
  • hauxonhauxon Posts: 17
    I've not called yet
    hauxon wrote: »
    I sent an email to Polk customer support on monday asking about RD0-198-1 tweeters. I've heard nothing from them yet. Are they usually slow to respond? Seems like a fairly simple question. Maybe connected to them shutting down the info page on vintage Polks and erasing vintage products from the support page? ...hopefully not...

    I think Polk might have sent the reply to me with horses. Still waiting, three weeks later....
  • crashb4crashb4 Posts: 143
    Call them. My order from 11/29 shipped on 1/17.
    Rotel: RSP-1068, RMB-1075, RT-1080 RLC-1040.
    Oppo: DV-980H
    Polk: Monitor-10B, SDA-1A, SDA-SRS

    To know the road ahead, ask those coming back. --Chinese Proverb
  • 1976doc1976doc Posts: 276
    So my 1.2 started popping a few months back, found that it was coming from the radiator... the suspension system started separating from the cone and was scratching as it moved.. either reglue them together or replace the radiator.
  • analogluvranalogluvr Posts: 72
    That happened to me and I used contact cement as my speaker tech recommended and it worked great
  • My 5.1 Home Cinema has bragging rights for the following equipment......
    [1] Screen...... 120" measured diagonally in a fixed black velvet frame.
    [2] Projector ......JVC DLA -X70R (E Shifting Technology)
    [3] Front Left and Right Speakers are Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3 (20 5/8" W: 4" H and 155Lbs.
    [4] Centre Channel......Tannoy Definition DC6 LCR (32.5" W and 15" D)
    [5] Surround Speakers.......Monitor Audio
    [6] Sub-Woofer ........Monitor Audio
    [7] OPPO Blu-ray Disc Player BDP-103D
    [8] Audio Video Receiver........ARCAM 450
    [9] Speaker cables for Front L/R/C are Nordost and Audio Quest for Surrounds.
    [10] HDMI Cables are all Audio Quest.
    [11] Operating the System with the MX-450 (Universal Remote Control)
    Shall update as my Home Cinema evolves
    [/list]

13»
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!